No, however and i dont have much experience with DMM's but the actuator circuit p/o /p/b is showing a resistance of 3ohms, is that a sure indication of a short and or a bad ground? The windows work fine so not sure if its the ground
I would also assume the ground is ok
The two wires is so both switches can control the actuator
They run back and forth to the master switch (drivers door switch)
That's also how the right side switch controls the left side actuator
You may need to get a schematic and ohm out the wires back and forth from the rh actuator and both switches
The actuators themselves should have a resistance spec of around 13 ohms (the solenoid coil)
The wiring back and forth should be less than 2 ohms
With both actuators disconnected and both switches disconnected
Neither wire should have a path to ground or power meaning no short to b+ or high and no short to B- or low
The DVOM is learn as you go and you are doing fine DVOM is digital volt ohm meter
im doing ohms test from the passenger side actuator to the pins underneath the driver side. Im only getting one pin that is registering a connection, unfortunately the side colors have faded so idk if its p/o or /pb.
getting back out there now thank you for not giving up on me
ok this is embarrassing i went underneath the drivers side and stuck a flash light up and with the fingers i could fit up there moved some cables around and discovered there's about 5 pink wires with butt terminals not attached to anything whatsoever now i need to find a way to make room and do some surgery, ill google some terms and see if i get anything.
I have already taken off more things than i'm comfortable with being a novice
You are on to it now
You might not get much sleep thinking about it
But you will have it fixed soon I think
I know what you mean about the wire color
When I cannot tell the colors I just shoot for effect
I sometimes look at just similar traits
I sometimes look further up the harness where the wires may be in better shape
Once you see the butt connectors you are halfway there
At the dealer and certainly under warranty we were supposed to solder and heat shrink any wiring repairs we made
This happened sometimes
You repair yours the best you can
You want no evidence of your repair
Tape, push clips in the right spot and wire ties are your friend
It is fairly difficult to properly remove the instrument panel (dash) on a Mustang like yours
Someone may have pulled the dash half out to replace a heater core and hacked the wiring?
I can sit the dash on the seats in about an hour and half doing it correctly
Doubt yours is that serious of a repair but...
I will tell you the easiest way to get the dash out if you need