No Power, pops out back, runs hot, and Pi$$ me off

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by mustangman1974, Jul 25, 2008.

  1. well looks like the new pump almost solved the problem. It got ride of the part idle hesitation, but at WOT it still occasionally burbs. After long trips on and off the freeway I got the timing set, however the running hot problem is still there. Plus one. Transmission clatters when backing up. I am going to check the linkages on the Hurst, because it runs good and shifts good in all 3 forward gears.

    I did some research on the 180 degree thermo and found out its probably keeping my engine hot. In stant thermostats start to open around 175 and are full open at 190. This weekend I am going to flush the cooling system and just install distilled water and see what the temps are. IF this works then the coolant sludged the inside of the engine. If not I don;t know what else to check.
  2. If your 180 t-stat gives you engine temps that go no higher than 190, I think you're ok. As you stated, Stant says that 180's don't fully open until 190.
    You may want to try a 180 from a performance shop. They are a little different than the discount store 180's...
    IMO changing your coolant isn't going to change anything. If it's flowing properly, it's working to cool the engine.
  3. If it were me, I think I'd address this issue first. Any debris in the carb is not normal, rust colored or not. Any crap in the bowls likely came from the tank, made it's way down the gas line, into the pump, where it ruined that. Now it's on it's way to the bowl, into the metering blocks where some parts will make it through and some parts won't, causing goofy metering, lean conditions and all manner of problems until you replace the tank, flush the line and clean the carb.
  4. ok flushed the tank and cooling system. Tank actually was pretty clean I must have had some bad gas at one time in there. Cooling system was flushed, flushed , flushed, flushed, and back flushed about 10 times. I only used city water for the back flush, but it went through my RV water filter system. I even used bottle brushes to try to get the dex0mud out of the block. It cam out pretty clumpy. I am going to drive it to work tomorrow finally.

    It still runs hotter then I am used to. I think the 180 degree thermostadt is going to be a mistake. It likes to stay at 190-200. I am looking at reversing my engine mounts to try to move the engine back an 1in. I am hoping to be able to install a Taurus fan. If not I can get a spal 16 in to fit, or possible re make a fan shroud with the information I have learned from this experience so far.

    However, the new fuel pump seems to have solved the lean condition. Edlerock is rebuilding/ fixing their pump considering its still under warranty. So when it comes back I should have no leaning out at 4krp like I have with the stock pump
  5. Hey at least winter's coming.
  6. That is what I was thinking as I was driving home in traffic watching the temperature rise above 200. Never got above 220. The missing/bogging is gone unless I wrap it above 4k or under a sever load. I figure this is from the weak stock pump. The fuel filter still goes empty, but pressure is only 1.5 psi drop when at 220.

    This is becoming a real pain. I will say with my electric on it keeps it between 190-200 without an issue, but then again thats without the a/c on so who the hell knows. Next fix is better designed shroud, but considering it better then the stock shroud and that worked for the cars 40 years ago I have no idea now what to check.

    At least I fixed the bogging.:shrug: