No-start Issue On '93

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by tealtiger93, Apr 30, 2013.

  1. Long read - see end for cliffs.

    When I turn the key to start the car, it clicks once and the dash lights up. Then the lights go off and the car does nothing. The starter doesn't turn/engage/spin at all. It will do this a few times and then will do absolutely nothing except the gauges jump around a little when I try to start it.
    Then other times it starts right up no problem.
    At first I thought it was the battery but then it would start so I threw that idea out but had it tested anyway, and it came back good. The starter was under warranty from AutoZone so I convinced them to give me a new one and put that in. I put in an ignition switch and a new starter relay on and it has not solved the problem. In January I put a new relay control module in as well. All fuses are good. Battery cables look to be in good condition, grounds are tight.
    Also last summer I replaced the plugs, wires, coil packs and ICM.
    A few weeks ago I had a check engine light and got the following codes:
    327 - EGR valve position sensor low voltage
    328 - EGR valve low voltage sensor
    332 - insufficient EGR valve flow - valve is closed
    334 - EGR valve voltage high - sensor
    332 - insufficient EGR flow
    411 - can't control RPM during Engine Run Self Test
    521 - power steering pressure switch -circuit switching not detected
    538 - Insufficient RPM change during Dynamic Response Engine Run Self Test
    Upon inspection I found a vacuum hose had popped off (I broke one a few months ago and got rubber hose to bridge the gap created by breakage). I popped the hose back on and the CEL went away. I attributed the KOEO codes and KOER 332 to the vacuum line but am curious if 411, 521 and 538 may possibly have something to with this no-start issue.

    Any ideas would be appreciated as it currently sits at the supermarket!!!

    Cliffs: Car starts when it wants to. Plenty of new ignition related parts installed within the last year, battery is good.
  2. I think you have a wiring issue.

    If you needed to start the car right away you could always jump the starter with 12V directly from the battery.

    I would pull the grounds, clean them, and check the cables for internal corrosion. I have seen this happen before where the cable appears to be fine visually, but internally has corroded to the point that it has built up too much resistance.
  3. Thanks! I spoke with someone today who said the same about the grounds. I'm going to do that and clean my battery terminals and cable ends in the morning. How do I check for internal corrosion? Just cut through the cable insulation? Obviously after disconnecting it from the battery!
  4. Well I believe it's fixed.
    I tried once more to start it with no success. Then I took off both battery cables and cleaned them and the terminals, sanded them lightly and cleaned again. Next I removed the 3 grounds I could find (2 on top of frame/crossmember behind headlights and 1 above & to the rear of the battery) and cleaned, sanded lightly and cleaned again. The starter clicked once or twice more than normal but it started right up. It started fine 5 or so more times then I sprayed battery protector on everything mentioned above.
    In total it probably started 15 times or so in 30 minutes so hopefully that was the problem.
  5. Looks like you may have it going. As far as checking for internal corrosion, you can inspect it visually by opening the insulation, but you can also test the resistance in the wire. If the resistance is too high, then there is a problem. There is probably a spec for how much resistance there should be, but you can also test it against a known good cable.
  6. Cool. Thanks.