Not Good

[revhead347]

That's not suposed to be like that.

It's worn down a groove in the crankshaft. Pray they can fix that. The gap in between the thrust bearing and the crankshaft is .079". You can slide the whole crankshaft back and forth with your hands. The more I mess with this engine, the worse crap I find. I can't believe how well it ran like that.

Kurt

 

[95BlueStallion]

Wow man, best of luck getting it back to spec. I take it you didnt build it yourself the first time?

 

[revhead347]

No, I didn't build the shortblock, the first time.

Kurt

 

[4Jenna]

Gotta love a freshin up

Goodluck man!

-Chris

 

[revhead347]

Anyone here ever seen a crank torn up that bad? I don't even know if it's fixable. It's like $700-$800 to replace that crankshaft.

Kurt

 

[ProKiller]

i've heard of it, but never seen it personally. i can't believe that thing ran for as long as it did.

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, friggen amazing. Not only did it run, it ran well. You could never tell there was a serious bearing problem.

Kurt

 

[MysteryMachine]

If theres a grove in the crank wouldn't that mean your block mains are off as well?

 

[nmcgrawj]

Anyone here ever seen a crank torn up that bad? I don't even know if it's fixable. It's like $700-$800 to replace that crankshaft.

Kurt

$7-800 crankshaft in a stock block?


Or is that total replacement costs with machine shop fees?

 

[4Jenna]

Hopefully they can turn it/polish it for you man!

 

[revhead347]

$7-800 crankshaft in a stock block?


Or is that total replacement costs with machine shop fees?

Yeah, it's an Eagle forged crank in a stock block. Not sure I needed to spend the money on a forged crank, but I did. They are about $630 on ebay, plus it costs about $150 to have it balanced. I spoke with the machinest today. He said the crank shop should be able to turn it for under $150.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

If theres a grove in the crank wouldn't that mean your block mains are off as well?

There's a groove in the thrust portion of the crank. It's the side opposite where I have the feeler gauge. The thrust bearing in the picture is obviously shot, which really isn't a big deal. Bearings are dirt cheap. It's the fact that it tore up the crankshaft that's an issue. The amazing part, is every other bearing in the bottom end appears to be normal. If anything, less than normal wear.

Kurt

 

[divit250r]

The only thing I can think of that might cause that heavy wear on the thrust bearing would be some severe engine braking... not something gas engines are known for. Even high milage, abused engines haven't looked like that. How thin are the sides of the thrust bearing? If it's wiped out, it may be most of the extra clearance problem. What did the journal area look like on that same bearing? Good luck!

Scott

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, I'm not sure what caused it. Most likely it was a clearance issue on the bearing itself, which caused the babbit metal on the bearing to wear down quickly. Once it goes through the babbit metal, the under metal of the bearing will tear through the crank quickly. It's also possible that having a series of stiff clutches in the car could have caused a problem. But that's unlikely. The other side of the bearing looks absolutely fine. I'll have to ask the machinest what he thinks caused it.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

Just a little update on the engine. I have dropped off the whole engine at Express Machine in DeLand FL. That's half a day drive each way, and hopefully worth it. I dropped a $750 deposit to get the engine reworked, and the Machinest says it will be at least twice that to get it back together. They have to send the crank off to get fixed. They are going to weld a bead onto the thrust surface, and then remachine it. He said that will cost about $150, which is well worth it considering it would cost about $800 to replace that crank shaft. Basically when I get it back it will be a 0 mile engine though. I was originally going to do the suspension at the same time the engine was done, but given how close I am to have a 0 mile engine, I am going to go ahead and dedicate all my funds towards a fully rebuilt engine, and rebuilding the transmission.

The only thing the machinest strongly recommended that I am uncertain of is the use of Moly rings. I have always preferred basic cast iron rings, because they break in better. He says it is money poorly spent on a nitrous engine. The engine is already bored .030" over, and I won't bore it out anymore. So if the hone job ends up being past the limit, I'm going to have to come up with another engine block. I intend to get it back and turn at least 112mph in the quarter on motor. Hopefully 114mph.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

Oh, I also sent an email to Cloyes regarding my timing chain. I have a Ford Motorsport timing chain kit for the car, and the chain was loose as my x-girlfriend. Ford does not sell the timing chain seperate from the kit, and Cloyes was the only brand I could find that sold the chain seperately. I found it worth mentioning that according to Cloyes if you have a Ford Motorsport roller timing kit, you can replace the chain with a Cloyes 9-145.

Kurt

 

[MysteryMachine]

HA HA HA that loose comment made me lol a little

 

[eatsricejcd]

Give coupe performance. He will hook you up. He's in covington, GA

 

[revhead347]

You're talking about Scott over at Coupe Performance. I've talked to him before. I was going to go over there for part time work when I first moved here, because his main guy was having heart troubles. I ended up holding a line my first month and didn't need the work. I talked to him last year about having the heads reworked, but he doesn't have a full machine shop. He doesn't do whole motors like that. I don't have any problem taking apart and re assembling engines myself, it's just the machine work I have to pay someone to do. Anyway, I heard some bad rumors about his work, and decided since I would rather have the engine redone by someone I know I can trust. That's why I took it all the way back down to FL.

Kurt

 

[blksn955.o]

Regarding the rings its dependent on the bore finish. If the correct bore finish is used with the correct ring choice there is almost an instant seat. The big issue with the cast iron rings is they are very brittle under cyl. press. and the spike from n2o will make the moly rings better for longevity.