O2 Replacement.

Discussion in 'SN95 V6 Mustang Tech' started by GKing4, Aug 25, 2013.

  1. I have a 2000 V-6 that I have to remove and install a new O2 sensor on the drivers side upstream. How hard is this to do? And, if I disconnect the sensor, will it hurt the engine?
  2. Not sure about the 2000, but my '98 does not look hard. Up on ramps, get 'em from below. Get (or borrow for free from Autozone) the O2 tool. Sensors are about $26 each from Rockauto.
  3. It's like changong a spark plug. Put the proper size wrench on it and unscrew it from the exhaust.

    You do not want to remove the o2 from a fuel injector setup. Your fuel economy will suffer as well as performance.

    I second rock auto.com. Ford o2 sensors are cheap.

  4. I would like to retract my wholehearted endorsement of RockAuto.com.
    I ordered my O2 sensors from them. The ones I got had 18" of wire, while the originals had 4". These sensors go in the exhaust header, with very little room to spare. With 18", the wires will eventually contact either the hot exhaust, or rub on other parts, but in either case, will eventually short out. These were the NTK ones, labelled on Rockauto as OEM.
    In order to get new ones, I would have to pay for shipping these back, then shipping for new ones(and would they be correct?) - so 3 shipping costs .
    They offered to pay 1/2 the shipback only. They feel that they have no responsibility to give you the right part. "NTK did make the originals for this application, but have since changed the product design a bit to better accommodate the market. " So, in other words, they do not care if the part is really correct, as long as the manufacturer says so.
    Obviously these are not the correct part, but Rockauto does not want to admit it, or fix it. If I were to order another part, what are the odds it will be right?
    With a delay in getting the part(compared to local store), and the issues with getting the right part, one should weigh the cheaper cost with poor customer service.
    I ended up cutting and splicing the wires. I hope they hold up.
  5. When you spliced the wires, if you soldered the reconnects and put shrink-tube on them they should be fine.
  6. I offset the cuts from each other so that they are not all lined up against each other, and put shrink tubing on the individual wires. I then put the sheathing that came with the wires over them all.
    But, I should not have to do this. The part was wrong, and RockAuto denied having responsibility to give me the right part. I have access to good soldering irons, and wire strippers ( I work at an electronics firm). Others do not have this access, and are ate the mercy of Rockauto.
  7. The passenger one is a bit of a PITA to replace. I ended up with the O2 tool, connected to a 3/8 extension, to a 3/8-1/2" adapter, to a 12 inch exetension, to the ratchet drive, with a pipe over that for leverage.