Oh $H!7 Something popped (electrical) car died and smoked, won't crank now

Matt, you can also buy the links seperate they are usually hanging up in the Electrical Section.

Look for melted wires, if it smoked something most likely left evidence, melted wire, smoke stain, etc...
 
  • Sponsors (?)


ok forget that diagram..it gives me a headache...you should not have more then 1 fuseible link coming off the strater soloniod...it gets spliced into a black wire...that is in the wire loom with the big thick wire going to the starter....replace that wire from the point it connects to the black wire up to the soloniod with the ring terminal on the end
 
There are several fusible links, and from as far as I can follow the big wire off of the other side (non-positive) of the solenoid there is not a fusible link - it is just standard, plastic coated wire.

On the positive side, there were several wires with fusible links.

Rick: Thanks. What would cause this to die all of the sudden? Especially with the closing of the hood? Just age and coincidence?
 
There are seven fusible links electrically connected to the starter relay. There are three black and one brown spliced onto the large yellow wire. There is also another blue and a green/brown link splice connected to the relay.

The brown link spliced onto the yellow wire is associated with the fuel pump relay. Also check the blue link which connects to the EEC.

The links can be bought as spools which you cut to length or individually.
 
nah ull be fine..every1 says that when something in their stang goes wrong and they cant diagnose it right away..u need to take a few off and ignore it or ull become soo frustrated you will swear your gonna sell it
 
You know, I was just thinking about what you said about closing the hood.

I don't know **** about the electrical systems on any car, but don't foxes come wired with the one courtesy bulb built into the hood underside? I know that my 1986 Mustang had one.

I remember cause when I removed the insulation, the wire came loose and I was worried about it getting caught in the belt or something. So I cut it and sealed it off. You said that it ran fine, but as soon as you shut it, it went nuts? That's the only thing I could think of that would allow for an electrical change if nothing happened until you shut the hood.

Is it possible that wire shorted something? Just a wild guess off into the blue yonder, but I'd like to do whatever I can to help you get to that dyno on Saturday. :)
 
Funny i had a similar problem, sort of. I put my car away for winter everything was fine, take it out a week ago and the headlights, radio and interior lights were working. Ripped dash apart after i check all the wires and fuses and saw nothing. I thought maybe a rodent. Nope, one of the fusable links had corroded on the inside. this is why certain things were working and some werent. i had an extra harness laying around so i just cut out one and wired it up, everything is back to perfect. They were very hard to get a good look at, and i looked at 3-4 times before i finally saw something was wrong. After two days finally got it fixed...was thinking about making a little write so other guys could check those if they are having a similar problem, what do ya think?:shrug:

:bang: :bang: :bang:


oh there are like 4 fuseable link that break off on a yellow wire after the silenoid. Those 4 wires have black rubber things on them, say fuseable link, some are different gauges so figure out what you need. easy as hell to fix, pain in the ass to see.
 
I checked the yellow wire closely and saw that it was fine - I then went on to check the three wires going into it and their fusible links are fine as well.

It appears it is only the green/Charging Circuit wire's fusible link that is toast. So, if this is indeed the only dead item...would it be the cause of the PMS not powering on and the fuel pump not coming on?

I'll work on it around 1pm tomorrow (Friday) so we shall see. I really hope something didn't get fried beyond the link.

And I checked the area, no wires exposed...so any clue why it happened when I closed the hood (with insulation still except for where blower is)? Or was this just merely a coincidence and the wire's time was just up?
 
How are you checking your wires? When it comes to electrical problems, a continuity tester (preferibly on that is audible)is your best friend. Get a wiring schematic and start testing the wires.

It's a pain in the ass, but really its the only real way to find the problem. I would start at the + terminal and test for continuity throught the starting system.

Of course since you heard a pop, chances are there has to be some visual evidence of problem, a burn mark if your lucky.

Good luck!
 
Yeah, like I mentioned, one wire had oozed out its insides so I am pretty sure that is the one.

If not, I see nothing else that shows signs of the popping noise and the smoke that was produced before I could get the hood popped and opened again.
 
Nvidia said:
You know, I was just thinking about what you said about closing the hood.

I don't know **** about the electrical systems on any car, but don't foxes come wired with the one courtesy bulb built into the hood underside? I know that my 1986 Mustang had one.

I remember cause when I removed the insulation, the wire came loose and I was worried about it getting caught in the belt or something. So I cut it and sealed it off. You said that it ran fine, but as soon as you shut it, it went nuts? That's the only thing I could think of that would allow for an electrical change if nothing happened until you shut the hood.

Is it possible that wire shorted something? Just a wild guess off into the blue yonder, but I'd like to do whatever I can to help you get to that dyno on Saturday. :)

I somehow missed this post last night. Yeah, that would make sense. The bulb is in that light socket, and with the hood propped open, the light is functioning properly, so I am guessing that the wire is not the problem...plus it shouldn't be exposed - insulation is still there.
 
I have a digital mutli-meter.

What is the best way to test continuity? Measure Ohms of the wire before the fusible link, then measure across it to see if it is the same resistance?

Or would I measure using the voltmeter function?
 
FOUND THE PROBLEM!

STILL NEED HELP FIXING IT!

After reading through several other threads with varying but similar issues, I started looking for crushed wires. First place i checked was the MAF wiring harness to the MAF itself.

BINGO! Since the s/c make it for a tight fit next to it for the MAF, the wiring harness was being compressed against the side fenderwell wall. Not only that, but the red wire to the sensor was partially cut (at the very least, the plastic housing had been peeled back) and it was grounded.

So, I rotated the MAF and moved the wire away from the metal and tried to crank. A little better sounding, still no fuel pump priming, but the PMS screen is lighting up (not showing legible data, but lighting up).

So, I know I need to fix this wire. It got cut withing 1/8" from the connector...so how can I reconnect it without cutting it...since cutting it and pulling back any of the insulation will leave me with almost nothing to crimp in a new connector. Is there a special "fixer" that can be put on bottom and top of wire bridging the partially cut area to both restore a solid electrical connect and protect it from arching to the body?

Also, I know this was the cause, but which fusible link would likely blow due to this wire being grounded?

I think the hood closing hit the blower (it rubs slightly even though is clocked as far as I could get it and removed insulation from hood just around where it was rubbing to give more room), pressed the blower into filter shield, which pressed the MAF into the harness which pressed it against the metal...grounding it!

But yeah, I need to know:
-How to fix the partially cut wire
-What fusible link would blow
 
i cant see pics right now so im not sure what your showing me..but if its the connector for the maf...and the wire is cut that close to the connector you either have to solder it..or call ford see if they have a new connector it comes with like a foot of wire...ask for the pigtail.....and i cant really answer your second question..sorry:shrug: