Oh $H!7 Something popped (electrical) car died and smoked, won't crank now

Here is a concern I have. The PMS screen is lighting up now, but with black lines across it. Normally it would light up and I could program it with the car's engine off.

So, what sends power to the EEC? And would partial power allow for the EEC click sound on key on and partially power on the PMS?
 
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yea good point.....its only a 20 minute job to pull that thing out .....might as well while you still have some of the day left and all night..........your mission criticman if you choose to except it, will be to get your mustang to run properly for the Dyno sessions tomorrow...this message will self destruct in 5 sec.
 
I would first test to see if you are getting any power at the fuse block for the fuel pump. If you are then go to the connector at the tank and test to see if you are getting power there. It will save the hassle of pulling the pump and testing out of the car. It can be done much quicker with a multi-meter.
 
"Fuse block for the fuel pump" ? There is not a fuse block or fuse for the fuel pump. There is the fusible link as well as the relay. Maybe I am misinformed?

To review the situation:
-something blew/popped, smoked
-isolated cause: wire on MAF connector was being cut by metal it was rubbing against and in closing the hood was last bit it needed for the wire to be exposed to the fenderwell opening metal
-14ga fusible link for Charging Circuit appeared to be fried...not positive, but replaced it anyway.
-I taped up the MAF wiring and it is secure. Car still will crank but not turn over because fuel pump is not priming. The PMS is now receiving some power from the EEC as it lights up and it has black lines across the screen.
-I have tested the 18ga fuel fusible link off of the starter solenoid...no resistance across is, so continuity is fine and that fusible link did not fry.
EDIT - Forgot to mention:
-Tried the fuel pump test by grounding the pin in the EEC test connector - nothing happened
-Did the "reset" of the collision fuel cut off in the hatch
-Tried pulling codes with Actron code scanner - it gives a static noise/light, so it is not properly pulling codes
-Tested voltage across battery, consistantly over 11 so would be enough to crank as I've seen it crank with only 7 (underdrive's and stock alt)

EEC DOES make the clicking noise when key is turned on.


So, that all being said, what is left to test? I still have some chance of dynoing tomorrow if I can get this damn electrical issue located and corrected. Even if not, I am not going to pay an outrageous amount for Ford to try and find the problem, so PLEASE HELP!
 
I may be way off here but I don't think the route of your issue is with the fuel pump. That's really weird that you can even get the codes. Are you sure your battery is not shorted or fried? If it isn't, then I would start to wonder if the computer has been damaged. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
With all the issues coming from it being grounded out I fear you have larger problems...EEC, and hopefully it didn't take out the PMS.

But like mentioned above, see if you have voltage going back to the pump when you turn the key if you do then the pump should work...

Now since you need to swap pumps anyways, drop the tank and install the new one. Then you can test the old one, just do it away from any open gas fumes or gas
 
Fuel Pump Troubleshooting for 91-93 Mustangs

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on.
It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running,
find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to
ground.
attachment.php

If the fuse links are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure –
remove the cap from the Schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the
core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. A tire pressure gauge can also be
used if you have one - look for 37-40 PSI. Beware of fire hazard when you do this.


No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – press reset button on the inertia switch. The hatch
cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the
voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch

B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built
before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter.

C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect
for fuel escaping while pump is running.

The electrical circuit for the fuel pump has two paths, a control path and a power
path.

The control path consists of the computer, and the fuel pump relay coil. It turns
the fuel pump relay on or off under computer control. The switched power (red
wire) from the ECC relay goes to the relay coil and then from the relay coil to the
computer (light blue\orange wire). The computer provides the ground path to
complete the circuit. This ground causes the relay coil to energize and close the
contacts for the power path. Keep in mind that you can have voltage to all the
right places, but the computer must provide a ground. If there is no ground, the
relay will not close the power contacts.

The power path picks up from a fuse link near the starter relay. Fuse links are like
fuses, except they are pieces of wire and are made right into the wiring harness.
The feed wire from the fuse link (pink/black wire) goes to the fuel pump relay
contacts. When the contacts close because the relay energizes, the power flows
through the pink/black wire to the contacts and through the dark green\yellow
wire to the inertia switch. The other side of the inertia switch with the
brown\pink wire joins the pink/black wire that connects to the fuel pump. The fuel
pump has a black wire that supplies the ground to complete the circuit.

Remember that the computer does not source any power to actuators, relays
or injectors, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That
means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to
ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.


0900823d80195960.gif

diagram of the wiring for 91-93 cars.

Now that you have the theory of how it works, it’s time to go digging.


Power circuits:
Power feed: Look for 12 volts at the pink/black wire (power source for fuel pump
relay). No voltage or low voltage, bad fuse link, bad wiring, or connections.
Remember that on 92 or later models the fuel pump relay is located under the
Mass Air meter. Watch out for the WOT A/C control relay on these cars, as it is
located in the same place and can easily be mistaken for the fuel pump relay.

Relay: Turn on the key and jumper the ECC test connector as previously
described. Look for 12 volts at the dark green\yellow wire (relay controlled power
for the fuel pump). No voltage there means that the relay has failed, or there is a
broken wire in the relay control circuit.

Inertia switch: Check the brown/pink wire, it should have 12 volts. No 12 volts
there, either the inertia switch is open or has no power to it. Check both sides of
the inertia switch: there should be power on the dark green\yellow (inertia switch
input) and brown/pink wire (inertia switch output). Power on the dark
green\yellow wire and not on the brown/pink wire means the inertia switch is
open. Press on the red plunger to reset it to the closed position. Sometimes the
inertia switch will be intermittent or will not pass full power. Be sure that there is
12 volts on both sides of the switch with the pump running and that the voltage
drop measured across the switch is less than .75 volts.

Control circuits:

Relay: The red wire for the fuel pump relay coil gets its power feed from the EEC
relay. No 12 volts here, and the EEC relay has failed or there is bad wiring or bad
connections coming from it. The EEC relay is located on top of the computer,
which is under the passenger’s side kick panel. It is not easy to get to, you must
have small hands or pull the passenger side dash speaker out to access it.
Also check the black/orange wire EEC power feed at the EEC relay - you should
have 12 volts there at all times.

Relay: The light blue/orange wire provides a ground path for the relay power.
With the test connector jumpered according to the previous instructions, there
should be less than .75 volts. Use a test lamp with one side connected to battery
power and the other side to the light blue/orange wire on the fuel pump relay.
The test light should glow brightly. No glow and you have a broken wire or bad
connection between the test connector and the relay. To test the wiring from
the computer, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. It has a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Remove the test jumper
from the ECC test connector. With the test lamp connected to power, jumper pin
22 to ground and the test lamp should glow. No glow and the wiring between the
computer and the fuel pump relay is bad.

Computer: If you got this far and everything else checked out good, the
computer is suspect .Remove the test jumper from the ECC test connector
located under the hood . Remove the plastic cover over the computer wiring, but
leave the computer wiring connector plugged into the computer. With the ignition
switch in the run position, connect a test lamp to the battery and back probe pin
22, the light blue/orange wire with it. The lamp should glow brightly. No glow and
the computer has died a sad death. :( If you used a voltmeter instead of a test
lamp, you should see battery voltage, whatever that may be…

Fuel pump runs continuously: The light blue/orange wire has shorted to ground.
Disconnect the computer and use an ohmmeter to check out the resistance
between the light blue/orange wire and ground. You should see more than 10 K
Ohms (10,000 ohms) or an infinite open circuit. Be sure that the test connector
isn’t jumpered to ground.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
 
Bringing this back from the dead...and hoping I can get my car back from the dead too!

First it was a death in the family, then I graduated, then my dad found out he had cancer...pretty crappy times. But I am done with school (more free time) and it looks like surgery removed all cancer, so time to return to the 'Stang.

So, please review this thread, mainly my recap several posts up, and see if anyone has any new ideas. I am planning on finally trying suggestions out tomorrow (Sunday).

Thanks in advance for any help!
 
Alright, got a new battery (clerk at store checked old one for some reason, only to confirm that it was "very dead").

I wish replacing the battery were the fix...but nope.

But at least it is back to trying to crank, still no priming of the fuel pump...and now I have power to do a lot of electrical tests.

For any PMS pro's, here is a pic of the screen with the key on - let me know if you have any ideas based on its display:
View attachment 463376
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Also, I figured I would test, for sake of thinking it would be easy, if removing the PMS would fix the problem. I figured if it somehow got fried, that removing it and hooking the ECU back up straight stock would point to a dead PMS. Well, I couldn't get the damn harness from the PMS off of the ECU. I tried to gently pry with a screwdriver, no luck, tried harder, and cracked a little lip off of the harness. Any ideas? Pic:
View attachment 463378
Larger (1024x768)

So I guess unless I get a lucky response on the PMS from someone, I will return to trying electrical continuity tests.
 
Alright, what is the proper way to test the voltage at the inertia switch?

Not knowing for certain, I pulled plug out from switch. Plug has two wires running into it, Dark Green/Thin Yellow and Pink/Black.

I put positive (red) end of voltmeter in connector for each wire and negative (black) end on a chasis ground. Only the DG/Y wire shows any power - 1.91V.

This is with key on, turned over (not cranked since won't crank).

Did I do this properly? If not, what is the proper way? If I did it properly, what do the results mean?
 
You are unfamiliar with electrical diagrams - get some help first off. Second, get one of those cheap $3 test lights that has a ground wire on one end and the "ice pick" with a light inside of it to probe both sides of all the fuse links to tell which one went bad. There will be 12v on the battery side of the links and there should be 12v on the down-stream side of the links. Ford made the "fusable" section of the link with a larger diameter wire jacket so you can tell where the wire is supposed to burn up first.

The reason I suggest the light is because sometimes a fuse link can be fried pretty bad but still pass 12v and the meters today have a very high input impedance, so it won't drag the voltage down as there is no real current through the bad link and meter when it is hooked up to the downstream side of a burned link. Try to run a bulb off the down stream side (that test light I suggested you buy) of the bad link and the voltage will drop to "0" on the meter if you leave it hooked up and the bulb will not light.
 
tmoss said:
your on your own pal - I made that comment after reading to the bottom of the first page and not seeing there was more than one.

I don't help guys with smart mouths like yours........

To me, you came across as having the smart mouth with your post. But, as you said, you did not realize there were more pages and had not read them. So, sorry for taking offense to your post.

I would appreciate it if we could move on and maybe you could offer assistance based on the rest of the thread and my more recent concerns.

Not to mention that I have long considered hiring you to port my Cobra lower...and I believe I had emailed back and forth about possibly doing so in the past.
 
Tom is 100% correct about the meter and test light I ran into that once and to say the least was very frustrated tracking it down. A local guy who has been doing electronic repair for over 30 years gave me that tid bit of info...

The PMS screen not firing up concerns me, maybe you shorted the PMS out and it fried it. Can you put it in a buddies car and see if it fires up the screen fine? The connector should come apart unless you melted it together somehow but I would think that is unlikely. You need to get it apart....

If the PMS works in another car you can start norrowing down some things one by one, make a checklist, print out that diagrams in this post they are very helpful!

Electric gremlins are the worst possible issue to have....they frustrate the **** out of you.
 
Yeah, I know Tom is right. I am going to pick up a test light today and hopefully spend this evening checking each of those fusable links again to be certain. I am praying it is as simple as one of them.

Question on the test light: So I hook the ground up to any ground, then use the "pick" end to test both sides of the link? Assuming I do so with the key in and on?

As for getting the PMS apart...I even took the EEC out and the harness, had my roommate grab one side of the connector, I grabbed the other, pulled as hard as we could (looked like a ghetto tug-o-war), no luck. But yeah, I would like to get it apart. If I can, I will make sure i use a good bit of dielectric grease on it when I put it back to hopefully allow smoother removal of the harness in the future.

And, since the EEC is pretty much in a plug-n-play position right now, I may see if I can get a friend to let me try his EEC in its place, rule out the EEC itself as a problem. (or plug up the PMS to his ride as you suggested - I think either way the good thing will be an item either identified as problem, or checked off the list).