Engine Oil Drips From Block Plate Every 4-5 Seconds?

[General karthief]

Wow, that got confusing quickly.
Go with the felpro seal, I 've used their products with good results for years, they should have a sleeve too.

 

[Pate]

They are both felpro seals. One is rubber and cheaper and other is ptfe/rubber?

 

[General karthief]

That I can't help you with, it's gonna depend on how many miles on the motor, budget constraints, that kinda things, but don't go cheap, maybe stop by a machine shop or a repair shop and ask

 

[Pate]

Would high crank pressure cause it to leak too? Should I run breathers on both valve covers? Right now it has a pvc on passenger side that runs straight to the carburetor. Is that even where it goes?

 

[Steel1]

Just a suggestion but you might want to try getting an "oil dye kit" to verify where it's leaking before tearing it apart again. Kit comes with dye to put in your oil as well as special flashlight and glasses, pretty sure you can get them for around $50.
My buddy had one that I used to confirm an oil leak on my daughters car, worked great.

 

[General karthief]

Yes, high crankcase pressures will push past seals, check you pcv valve and hose, the port for the pcv system is usually the lowest and largest port on a carb or a port on the manifold. You would feel pressure at the breather instead of suction if high crankcase pressure.
Can you post a pic of the engine?

 

[Pate]

I will post up a pic about 5 today after work. I remember hearing pvc rattle when I shook it and it only blew one way. Sometimes both ways because it was gummed up. So I didn't know if maybe I should put a breather cap there too and just plug the carb I guess? I will get u some pics tho

 

[Pate]

May try the dye too. I just don't want to drive it with it leaking that much. Don't wanna ruin my new clutch. It made the old clutch slip when going down highway and bottom of car was coated. I recall the old leak a drip every 8-10 secs. Now it's a drip every 3-4 secs.

 

[Dan02gt]

Ptfe felpro seal or rubber felpro seal?

PTFE Felpro Seal installed dry is what you want to go with.

 

[Pate]

Thank u dan. So just leave it dry on install with sleeve then? I shouldn't use black rtv on outside either?

 

[Dan02gt]

I don't see how black RTV on the outside would hurt anything, but yes install it using the plastic sleeve that comes with it on a dry crank.

 

[imp]

Ptfe felpro seal or rubber felpro seal?

Assuming the shaft surface is acceptably smooth, no gouges or nicks (be aware some shafts have angled indents visible aimed at constantly pushing oil back towards the inside of the engine), a PTFE (Teflon) seal has superior life qualities over rubber, likely costs more, but suffers from one serious drawback: Teflon seal lips actually CUT into the shaft surface if even a slight amount of water or moisture is present.

In our Development Lab, we actually saw the grooves Teflon lips cut in shafts when moisture was present. OTOH, Teflon seals proved to give the longest overall life over all others: Silicone Rubber, Poly-Acrylic, and Buna-N. imp

 

[BarryGT]

I had a pcv problem on a Ranger one time that created high crank case pressure and it would blow oil out the rear main seal and even out of the mechanical fuel piump.

 

[Pate]

Sorry guys had a funeral to deal with. Anyway I figured out the car only starts dripping once oil is warmed up. Not a single drop but once it hits normal temps it starts dripping. It’s new oil. I used maxlife 10w30. Should I be using something else? Also my sleeve came in and I have the Teflon seal Incase I need to bring it all back out again.

 

[Pate]

Also what would stop oil from just seeping between the sleeve and shaft? I just wanna be 100% sure I install the sleeve and new Teflon rms the right way. Should I lube anything up or just do it all dry? Must be minor if it don’t do it for first 5-10 mine of running then soon as oil gets good and warm it starts seeping

 

[imp]

Also what would stop oil from just seeping between the sleeve and shaft? I just wanna be 100% sure I install the sleeve and new Teflon rms the right way. Should I lube anything up or just do it all dry? Must be minor if it don’t do it for first 5-10 mine of running then soon as oil gets good and warm it starts seeping

I cannot talk definitely about the sleeve, because I don't know enough about it. Is it driven onto the shaft tightly, or slips on loosely. If loose, and not sealed nothing will stop oil from finding it's way out. My main problem is that I've never encountered one of these "sleeve" seal fixes, and still think of it as a "jury-rig". imp

 

[Pate]

Ok done the sleeve and put on the felpro ptfe seal. And exact same thing happened. Ran it in driveway to warm up three times. On the forth time when ready to go for test drive the drip returns???? Should I give another shot at RMS with the cheaper Fel-Pro rubber gasket and leave the sleeve on since it’s already done? I also removed all three screws located behind flywheel above rms and put rtv on them.

 

[General karthief]

Never encountered a problem like this, a little seepage after 30-40k maybe but not right away.

 

[Pate]

I’m just mind boggled here?? I’m starting to wonder if it ain’t crankcase pressure building up? Maybe I should eliminate the pvc?

 

[Pate]

Now the motor used to be fuel injected and still has a vacuum pump but no hose running to it. Maybe they didn’t follow right procedure when converting to carb and cause high crank pressure?