Oil Pressure Guage..Mech. or Elec.?

[95strokerPSU]

So now that my stock oil pressure gauge is reading extremely high, I need to get an AM gauge and see if the stocker is shot or if I have a more serious problem.

My question is, if I get a mechanical gauge, will I have to run a braided line filled with oil to the gauge, is that how mechanical works? and then electric you can just send a wire to the gauge? If so, do you think it would be a good idea to mount the gauge in the engine compartment, or does that defeat the purpose of getting the gauge by not being able to see it from inside the car? I was thinking about cutting a hole in the wiper motor cover and mounting the gauge in there.

Thanks
Dave

 

[95strokerPSU]

I think I'm gonna go with the Autometer 4327. It's a short sweep electric gauge, Ultra-Lite series, so it will match the rest of my gauges. Any opinions on this gauge? I need to order a gauge tonight.

 

[Rootus]

So now that my stock oil pressure gauge is reading extremely high, I need to get an AM gauge and see if the stocker is shot or if I have a more serious problem.

The stock oil gauge isn't a gauge to begin with, it's an idiot light. Reading high can indicate an electrical problem (typically a broken/loose ground).

My question is, if I get a mechanical gauge, will I have to run a braided line filled with oil to the gauge, is that how mechanical works?

Yes, more or less. Some mechanical gauges have isolators and use an inert fluid for the part of the line inside the car. Not sure if any of the oil pressure gauges are like that, but I've seen fuel pressure gauges like that.

and then electric you can just send a wire to the gauge?

An electric gauge has a sender that measures the pressure and sends a variable voltage to the gauge. Usually quite a bit more expensive, but if you want a gauge inside the car and you're measuring something volatile, 'tis the way to go.

In reality, you're not in any more danger now than you were before the gauge started creeping up. It would only have dropped to zero on the gauge if you went below something like 6 psi ... which is pretty low . I'd check your electrical system though, just in case that's your problem. If it is, then you'll eventually see other symptoms show up, like high coolant temperature readings and low voltage, and sometimes tach twitches. This happened to me on my '94 when it was almost brand new -- the dealer replaced the radiator three times before they finally started listening to me -- I told them all along that I suspected electrical based on the symptoms. And then four of my friends' 94 GT's all did exactly the same thing over the next couple of months...

Dave

 

[95strokerPSU]

Thanks for the response. I do believe that it is just electrical and getting an AM gauge will prove that. I just got a little worried when someone mentioned in my other thread that high oil pressure could be caused by a spun bearing. My car does feel a little slow but I think that it's all in my head. Everything sounds fine, and I really don't beat on my car. BTW my tach gauge already is shot, so that's another reason I think the oil gauge is shot. Oh well, I'm ordering Autometer's 4327 from Summit now.

Dave

 

[HISSIN50]

You cant go wrong with any of the AM stuff IMHO. I tend to run electric OP gauges these days (easier for pillar mounts, etc) and you should be happy. And elec is easier to plumb, but harder to use in a Tee off the stock sender location if retaining the stocker too (I ended up with an extension, Tee, and then a 90* bend off the end of the tee to make the senders fit).

But if you are removing the stock sender and benching it, then the AM sender plugs right in. The boss for the sender is 1/4" NPT IIRC. The gauge should come with the adapter (gauge sender might be 1/8" NPT). If not, the home store sells the fitting for a buck or so.

Good luck, from the only guy not named Dave on this thread.