Oil + water = pissed

joemamma

New Member
Dec 10, 2003
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OK. Here's the story...

Engine was running a bit rough when I got the car (66 289). Charging system was on fritz, etc. So I checked the radiator and added the required quart or so of 50/50 water/glycol. After running for 15-20 minutes (while messing with the Edelbrock), I shut it off. LOTS of gurgling. A day later, while inspecting/changing the motor mounts I decided to clear the way to the mount and pull the oil/filter. Nice latte colored oil!!!! AAAAAACCCCCCKKKKKK!!!

I put a cooling system tester on it, and found the top radiator hose "peeing" out around 14 lbs or so...but nothing from the engine area to indicate a location for the breech. The earlier gurgling sounded like it was coming from the manifold/thermostat area.

From appearances, there is sufficient anti-freeze to inhibit freezing in the temps it has been encountering (> 20F). Where are the "weak links"? (Hopeful hint: the intake manifold appears to be fairly recent, and has "spooge" around the gasket areas. Would a stuck thermostat help pop a gasket there, too?).

And, yes...the deal is done...and it looks like I own it.
 
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The front and back of the intake are places to start. If you're lucky, somebody didn't seal the intake and thermostat correctly; if your not, a blown head gasket or worse. I would remove the intake and buy a quality gasket set like Felpro and start from there. Most people don't use the frt. and rear gaskets for the intake but rather use a silicone sealant that is resistant to OIL, GAS, AND ANTIFREEZE. READ the LABELS. Everything must be super clean before you do this and a helping hand or engine lift will help you sit the intake on straight the first time.
 
joemamma said:
OK. Here's the story...

Engine was running a bit rough when I got the car (66 289). Charging system was on fritz, etc. So I checked the radiator and added the required quart or so of 50/50 water/glycol. After running for 15-20 minutes (while messing with the Edelbrock), I shut it off. LOTS of gurgling. A day later, while inspecting/changing the motor mounts I decided to clear the way to the mount and pull the oil/filter. Nice latte colored oil!!!! AAAAAACCCCCCKKKKKK!!!

.
I feel your pain!! I'm going thru the same situation with the roller 5.0 in my 89 Ranger. Except mine stems from some overheating combined with aluminum heads and Felpro race gaskets. Same results though, same rich colored oil/water mix in the oilpan. I've replaced both head gaskets, but still not sure if I've found or fixed the source of the oil leak. It's a bitch to get all the gunk out of the crankcase without pulling the motor. Right now I'm on the third batch of oil since I changed it three weeks ago.
 
Update

The problem was the intake manifold gasket. Several of the center bolts on the manifold were only "finger tight", and the front valley gasket was pushed out of place. When I was degreasing the engine, I flooded that area because it was a catching point for the spilloff.

The removed intake gasket showed signs of not sealing around two intake ports. When everything was buttoned up, the engine did idle cleanly. Something it wouldn't do before.

Problem is there is a rod knock, which was partially concealed by the rough running engine.

Thankfully, the seller is refunding my money. Too bad, though. It's a real nice 66 FB with good frame, floors and body. Some bondo on the rears and top of the front drivers fender (why, I dunno). If I had time, space and $$$ to drop in a fresh 289, it would be sweet.
 
Well mine turned out to have a cracked cylinder wall on #4. It took pulling it, putting it on a stand, fabricating some plates to seal off the water inlets and the outlet in the intake, filling it with water, then pressurizing the thing and watching for the water that dripped slowly out of the bottom of that cylinder, with the oilpan removed. Still cant figure why the block cracked like that, it's a vertical crack about an inch long, halfway up the wall, from the bottom.