OK, I need help, front suspension problems

[soctty7676]

Well, I have had this horrible creaking noise coming from the front end of my 98 GT Convertible when turning and when the front end goes up and down. I changed out my lower ball joints and struts, but it's still there. Only does it when the front end is under a load (on the ground). I bought some ramps and put it up on those, then crawled under and pulled the front up and down. I have narrowed it down to 2 things. Either my lower A-Arm bushings (which have a 1/2" gap under the bolt) are making the noise, which I know now need to be replaced. Or my springs are making the noise.

So, here is my plan. I am going to buy Eibach lowering springs (1.3 or so inches lower), new a-arm bushings, and new tie-rod ends because I know I will f*&^ them up when beating them out with a hammer. Here are my questions:

1. I have the front springs figured out how to change, but how do I change the rear? What do I have to remove in order to replace them.

2. I just put sensa-tracs all around, can I still use those with the lowered springs?

3. Will I have any alignment issues when I go to the alignment shop with these lowered springs and stock strut mounts?

I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks!

 

[soctty7676]

Just reading my Haynes manual.....So I have another question

4. Do I really have to remove the steering rack from the mount bolts and raise in order to get the drivers side a-arm front bolt out??? The manual says all kinds of stuff about pulling the the steering gear out and everything else. Is it really that hard? I am about to take it to the shop after reading this, but I know they will charge me $1000+ to do this here.

 

[black_96_GT]

Search the site for steeda spring install, there is a great step by step with a lot of pics. The rears are 10x's easier than the fronts. When I got my alignment everything went smooth, no real issues, cc plates and bump steer are next though.

 

[black_96_GT]

Just reading my Haynes manual.....So I have another question

4. Do I really have to remove the steering rack from the mount bolts and raise in order to get the drivers side a-arm front bolt out??? The manual says all kinds of stuff about pulling the the steering gear out and everything else. Is it really that hard? I am about to take it to the shop after reading this, but I know they will charge me $1000+ to do this here.

Yes, I took mine out but it is really easy, first time ever doing anything like that. I couldn't get to the power steering lines so I removed the rack, supported it with a paint can and disconnected the lines. If you want to remove the a-arm you have to do it. Unless someone knows some crazy way around it. You don't have to do all that just to change the springs though.

 

[GDawg]

Eventhough I haven't replaced my bushings yet, I think you are right on the money with your analysis. If you don't want to spend all that money, do the bushings first and if that doesn't fix it, just buy a new set of isolators for the springs. My stock ones were wearing pretty thin when I swapped out my springs and isolators (and other stuff) a few years ago. I doubt the springs themselves are making the noise. If that still doesn't fix it. Get the new springs (and you can reuse the new isolators, but you may be in for some new caster/camber plates and struts and shocks too if you lower it.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

Odds are its the crappy steering rack bushings making noise! The rack has some movement to it as the stock rubber bushings are pretty compliant, so when you add the weight of the car + movement + crappy rubber = noise. Pull the steering rack off the car (two bolts, real easy) and pry the bushings out with a big flat blade screw driver or whatever you got. Next you can either A) replace the bushings with aluminum or urethane bushings, or B) lube the crap out of the stock bushings with suspension/chassis grease or lithium grease.

If its not the rack (gonna bet it is) THEN its either the springs (more likely) or control arm bushings (less likely).

 

[soctty7676]

Ok, from the advice here I am going to NAPA to buy a-arm bushings, steering rack bushings, spring isolators and power steering fluid.

Do I have to disconnect the lines to the steering rack, or just unbolt and move out of the way? The manual says something about locking the steering wheel, and removing some sort of clamp from the steering shaft, and pulling apart Do I have to do this?

You will not believe this! I looked at the springs and there is nothing at all between the springs and the bare metal at either the top or bottom! So I don't even have a clue what to put on?? Here is what I found at NAPA's website -> http://www.napaonline.com/masterpag...ber=2749141&Description=Coil+Spring+Insulator

Do I just buy 4 of these? 1 for bottom and 1 for top on both springs?

And one more question. When I replace all these rubber bushings and stuff, do I need to put any kind of grease on them, or just put them on as-is?

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[BennyBlown2v]

You do not need to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the steering rack. All you need to do is remove one bolt from where the shaft locks onto the rack, and then the two bolts holding the rack onto the car. If you have no isolators at all, it wouldn't suprise me if your riding on aftermarket springs already, and whoever had the car before you took them out. The top isolator is a big thick peice of rubber, so there is no way it could possible deteriorate completely.

I wouldn't reccomend buying stock replacement bushings. Urethane bushings are the same price, will last forever (relatively speaking) and will also help out the steering feel of the car. www.stangsuspension.com sells all the bushings you need, use the coupon code "stangnet" without quotes when checking out and you'll be 5% off I think.

 

[soctty7676]

Cool, that makes sense now about just removing the rack to move it out of the way and change the bushings. And you're right, the Urethane bushings are about the same price, but a lot better, I will definetly go that route.

One more question, then I'm set. How hard is it to replace the a-arm bushings? Are they pressed in as hard as the lower ball joints are into the a-arm? If so, I will have to take them completely off and take them to a shop with a press. If not too bad, I can probably rig up something with my lower ball joint tool I bought and a vice.

Thanks!

 

[TrueBlue03]

you do know that if you lower it, its just going to creak and pop even more when you turn the wheel. nearly all lowered mustangs do it.

there are so many questions goin around about how to fix the noises and stories of people tearin apart their whole front suspensions with no luck

 

[soctty7676]

Yes, I think I've decided against the lowering springs, since there is a very small chance it is the spring itself.

The Urethane bushings say you have to reuse the old casing. Does this mean I can just drill/tear out the old rubber and push the new bushings in? Is it really that easy? Or does it still require a press?