Okay so considering mini tubbing my street only fox...need input

[killer5.0]

Ive never driven a tubbed car so looking for input. Currently running a 8.8" with panhard bar and 18x10s with 295s on the rear with only the lips rolled. I have a look that i want to achieve with my car as well as better traction which requires wider wheels and a lower stance. Thought about flaring but im not sold on the look. Wanting to run a 18x12 or 19x12 with a 315 or 325.
Car is street only 500rwhp at the moment. I dont auto x or drag but i dont want it to corner like a brick either. I was planning to run the 8.8 with 9" ends. Would it be a good idea to shorten the panhard bar so it works with the narrowed rear and add my torque arm like i planned or that just wont work? And any input on how the car handles/corners with a mini tub and wider wheels would be great.

 

[srtthis]

youll have to move the shocks inboard and will need to run coil overs as you will lose the upper shock mount.

going to lose the panhard bar also unless you find a way to make it fit back there

 

[killer5.0]

Im planning to run ridetech coilovers...i imagine if i can modify the PH bar it would be beneficial to do so? I found a chassis shop im going to talk to and see what they think about it. As long as the frame rails arent disturbed it looks like i can just move the drivers lower shock mount over and shorten the billet rod itself. But if frame rail notching is needed then it may not work...

 

[srtthis]

to mini tub you have to notch the frame rail

like notched to the point of cutting thru it all the way at the back point of the tub

 

[killer5.0]

So say i went with a 18x10 or 18x11 or 19 x10/11 instead and want to run 315s and run it low...whats my best option? Ive seen places mini tub and have options for keeping stock suspension locations. I just dont know with rear coilovers and tucking it to the rail how much clearance i can gain. Hoping to keep my PH bar. But want to run 315s tucked without rubbing.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Dude, I answered your question on the other thread. I gave you pics as well. The new car has a whole step by step process outlined like a connect the dots puzzle.

On the first car, you can see I’m using the stock shock mounts on both the upper, and lower. On the current car, you can see what was done to the frame to accommodate the shocks, and what was done to fabricate a new upper and lower mount.
Both cars have 10.5” wheels.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-fo...d-finally-im-moving-again.871263/post-8761576

You will not lose your ability to to use the PH bar, because other than notching the frame to provide clearance for the shocks, the frame rails remain exactly where they are now. Shortening your PH bar is only necessary if you’re gonna have interference from the shock, or wheel, but will be unlikely if you don’t narrow the rear.

If you do shorten the bar, you risk creating a geometry problem, as that is one of the things where longer is better. The closer the bar is to overall rear end length, the less likely it will be to pull the rear one way or the other through its swing arc. Shorten the bar, and that relationship changes.

 

[95BlueStallion]

Bingo ^

 

[killer5.0]

I know and thank you for the replies. Im just also wondering how wide people can run with the MM PH bar without interference. Mini tubs etc is new territory for me so trying to figure out how much i need to obtain my goals. I wont be performing any of that as i dont know how to weld at this point and trying to get a good idea od the scope of the work and the process. At a minimum i would like to be able to run a 315 on and 18 or 19" wheel tucked tightly to the fender and no rubbing. Im not against going all out and shortening the axle so i can runs 12s and moving the coilover mounting spots and losing the PH and TA but im unsure of how the car will handle in the corners and aggressive street driving? I dont need it to auto x but i want it to feel safe and controllable on the street and during the occasional aggressive higher speed trips.