Old School - Intake Shoot Out
- Thread starter Grabbin' Asphalt
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Here ya go. I've been eyeballing them myself:http://www.astroperformance.com/adv...&y=13&osCsid=433b48321cc248ace9a85f8974b305e8
However, if you retain the use of that GT40 intake, you won't need to upgrade your tranny
However, if you retain the use of that GT40 intake, you won't need to upgrade your tranny
I think the astro is a great option for a street car. As far as the h/c/i goes...this is what I'd do if it were my build-custom grind hyd roller,tfs 11r 205cc heads,and a 90mm accufab-tfs r intake. Look at NikwoaC's build on here. With the proper cam,tune,etc that 363 would make a crap ton of torque and still be able to pull harder and longer with good street manners. Also if you're planning on boosting it later you will want a higher flowing intake. If not why build a dart block if you only plan on running 400 hp and <6000 rpm? Don't take this wrong I'm not trying to bash on you. I am confused on the "plan" going forward
That's a tough sell. Those astro transmissions are as much as a TKO600. I know it will be a little more money once you get it in the car, but it's money well spent.
Kurt
Kurt
You're acting as if you'll have some kind of torque advantage or greater torque by running a junk intake. Which is not the case.
You'll just have nothing up top so the only power you'll feel is down low because you're choking it to death.
Do as you wish, no need to justify it to us.
But just for anyone else who finds the forum and is trying to build a big cube 302 based motor and make respectable numbers, this is not the combo to build. But I'm guessing if you've got a dart based motor you're hopefully not too cheap to build it correctly.
You'll just have nothing up top so the only power you'll feel is down low because you're choking it to death.
Do as you wish, no need to justify it to us.
But just for anyone else who finds the forum and is trying to build a big cube 302 based motor and make respectable numbers, this is not the combo to build. But I'm guessing if you've got a dart based motor you're hopefully not too cheap to build it correctly.
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
Ill throw in my 2 cents here. If I was building a 363, it would consist of the following:
Minimum of a tfs R 90mm intake, preferably a box R 90.
At least a 210cc head, ex. vic jr's, preferably high ports.
cam, custom only.
At the very minimum 9.5-1 compression (boost was mentioned, n/a would be 11.1-1 min.)
1 7/8 long tubes.
Absolutely no reason to use 302 parts. Your trying to make 351 power! The parts cost damn near the same, regardless of what combo your going to do. As a professional at throwing money down the drain, I will tell you to do it RIGHT the first time! This means don't puss out on the heads and intake! Cylinder head flow = hp, plain and simple. With the right cam and tuning, there is no reason why it shouldnt drive perfect on a daily basis. A 363 with
ty heads and intake will make lots of low end power for sure, BUT it will be a turd on the track. Low end tq is good for spinning the tires, that will get old in about 2 days.
Minimum of a tfs R 90mm intake, preferably a box R 90.
At least a 210cc head, ex. vic jr's, preferably high ports.
cam, custom only.
At the very minimum 9.5-1 compression (boost was mentioned, n/a would be 11.1-1 min.)
1 7/8 long tubes.
Absolutely no reason to use 302 parts. Your trying to make 351 power! The parts cost damn near the same, regardless of what combo your going to do. As a professional at throwing money down the drain, I will tell you to do it RIGHT the first time! This means don't puss out on the heads and intake! Cylinder head flow = hp, plain and simple. With the right cam and tuning, there is no reason why it shouldnt drive perfect on a daily basis. A 363 with
ty heads and intake will make lots of low end power for sure, BUT it will be a turd on the track. Low end tq is good for spinning the tires, that will get old in about 2 days.LOL You all "and I" need to give up on trying to talk him out of using his GT40 intake on that 363. From reading this and other of his threads I get that he is dead set on using that thing no matter how much sense people try to invest in him.
(He ain't listening)
(He ain't listening)
Another note to add....the OP poster is looking at his cam selection based on how it will work in a 302 and how "streetable" it will be as a result.
Cubic inches tend to tame big cams and shift the power curve downward. A bumpstick that might otherwise be considered very aggressive in a 302, will dumb down to almost "tame" in a 363.
Cubic inches tend to tame big cams and shift the power curve downward. A bumpstick that might otherwise be considered very aggressive in a 302, will dumb down to almost "tame" in a 363.
363 is just so close to a 347 but I may go custom grind but there is a part of me wanting to add OTS items and ported items to see what it can do. I may could retard the OTS cam to slide the torque curve up and get more upper usable rpms but again, it's really not seeing the track cause it's a DD. I may take it one day to see what it does but my usable rpm is on the street. The build is mainly being done because of a trade and cash so I'd rather solidify the bottom end anyways if I can trade for it.
Agreed, he'll make approx the same power, but save himself about $3,000 in the process.
I would go AFR 205's as the minimum head and Holley intake as the minimum intake. You'll be much happier with these two things on a DD. If you want to move to higher RPM intake the heads are ready for the challenge.
That's the problem though. He WILL NOT run any intake buy the Cobra. IMO, if he refuses to upgrade the intake, he should face reality and consider downgrading the rest of the build.
No need for a Dart Block, 363 stroker....or AFR 185's really. All will be choked to death trying to breath through that spindly little intake manifold.
Stick with the stock 302, or bump it up to 331ci if you really need a stroker. Pick up a set of GT40X, AFR 165's, TFS 170's, Edelbrock Performers, etc, a conservative cam a few bolt ons and be content with 330-350ish horsepower.
Building a 363, is only going result in the same power levels, but with a higher torque figure (probably to the tune of 30lbs/ft). That's about $1,000 for every 10lbs/ft of torque.....not very cost effective!
Not to mention all the supporting mods the 363 Will need. I'm willing to bet by the time engine, transmission, exhaust, and body modifications are fine that will be close to a 10k dollar build. Not ideal for a daily.
I thought this was all based on getting a good deal on a used 363. You could always trade that 363 for my 347. I have the hci to take advantage of it. I would love to put a second stage of nitrous on my car too.
Kurt
Kurt
Similar threads
