Once and for all what kind of motor mounts rubber or poly?

aztecgwynn

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Apr 3, 2015
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So I have a 93 LX car has edelbrock heads, cobra intake, scorpion roller rockers, stock cam, stock 19LB injectors, bbk equal length headers, bbk cold air intake and pro m air meter and has been Dyno tuned fox also has subframe connectors. Car runs great daily driver and I put a ton of miles on car yearly.
I have read and done so much research on poly motor mounts, rubber anchor motor mounts, poly transmission mounts, rubber transmission mounts but have not come to any definite info on any of these issues.
currently I still have the OEM rubber motor mounts but not cracked yet, and debating on changing to new I’m sure motor mounts are tired now after 26 years. But also have heard Anchor brand mounts are terrible as well so no help there.
Now transmission mounts are Energy suspension as are crossmember mounts as well all poly car runs great but I can feel small faint vibration from motor especially when motor revs especially when in neutral. But when running not much vibrations seems to run better at speeds of over 85MPH.
It I also read don’t mix poly and rubber , or either go all poly and deal with small vibrations or go all rubber but beware anchor mounts are junk!! And if you mismatch do rubber trans mounts and use poly motor mounts or vise versa.
Again my car is my daily driver I live in Maricopa county Az but drive my car to San Diego Ca twice a month she is very well kept and clean I get good gas mileage and she’s not abused at all but would like to hear everyone’s opinion on this subject who has gone thru this issue. I am aware I am driving a rattle can that makes all kinds of noise going thru or driving thru roads that are a bit rough or neglected but would like to go without trial and error periods.
My car also has a fairy new T5 I bought new from Summit and an aluminum driveshaft bought in 2017, with clutch still in good shape with great foot pedal feedback. Now axle is a complete different story after 2 years of still looking still looking for someone honest to rebuild my rear axle. I have bought all new parts for axle minus rim and pinion but seems like here in Mesa, Phoenix, Gilbert, Chandler area shops are waaaaaaaaay expensive or too dirty, or seems they say they do axles but when I visit shop they have no axle work going on and not risking paying $1400 in labor for no precise axle work or maybe guy with no experience.
But if any of you have experience with mounts please give me honest opinions what are pros and cons!
Please no solid mount opinions again this is my daily driver!
Again I don’t race my Calypso Green 1993 she is daily driver and sees no track use as well.
Thanks everyone hope to hear opinions soon.
 

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Boostedpimp

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I've never had any install issues with the prothane and energy suspension poly mounts I've used over the years on various foxbodies. My daily driver has energy suspension motor and trans poly mounts and I couldn't tell you if it hurt or helped the ride but the factory rubber mounts were destroyed. They appeared fine but when it came time to actually replace them with the upgraded polys they were actually really bad just couldn't tell from appearance.

If you go poly I would go poly for both the motor and trans mounts... I would also go with energy suspension brand if your using a stock hood still as the prothane I have found raises the motor slightly which caused a clearance issue with the factory hood on one of my cars.

If you haven't yet, I would seriously look into buy some maximum motorsport or steeda subframe connectors and have them welded in. Actually any brand subframe connector as long as they have the cross brace for the seat support will make a drastic difference in the feel of the car, the handing and will eliminate most of the noises or creeks.

Regarding your rear end question, i'd say $1400 for just labor seems really high. I don't know the extent of your issue and labor is expensive here in Jersey but $1400 in just labor to have factory rear refreshed seems crazy.
 

aztecgwynn

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Apr 3, 2015
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I've never had any install issues with the prothane and energy suspension poly mounts I've used over the years on various foxbodies. My daily driver has energy suspension motor and trans poly mounts and I couldn't tell you if it hurt or helped the ride but the factory rubber mounts were destroyed. They appeared fine but when it came time to actually replace them with the upgraded polys they were actually really bad just couldn't tell from appearance.

If you go poly I would go poly for both the motor and trans mounts... I would also go with energy suspension brand if your using a stock hood still as the prothane I have found raises the motor slightly which caused a clearance issue with the factory hood on one of my cars.

If you haven't yet, I would seriously look into buy some maximum motorsport or steeda subframe connectors and have them welded in. Actually any brand subframe connector as long as they have the cross brace for the seat support will make a drastic difference in the feel of the car, the handing and will eliminate most of the noises or creeks.

Regarding your rear end question, i'd say $1400 for just labor seems really high. I don't know the extent of your issue and labor is expensive here in Jersey but $1400 in just labor to have factory rear refreshed seems crazy.
Thank you forgot to put that in but I have welded in subframe connectors in there!
Yeah it has me a bit baffled how much these shops asking for rebuild, axle has a bit of play in it now so I know it needs rebuild or service but I am almost done buying all the necessary parts too do a complete rebuild
 

srtthis

the guy doing it does every local racers rear end
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solids... they really arent as bad as people think. if i wasnt trying to take stress off the side of my block id still be solid and not on motor plates
 
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2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
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Essn95

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I tried the rock auto rubber anchor brand and they didn’t even fit on my vert.
Went with energy suspension poly and wish I went with that in the first place. paid about $110 new for them and they went in perfect and perform well. 95 Cobra vert
 

aztecgwynn

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Apr 3, 2015
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I tried the rock auto rubber anchor brand and they didn’t even fit on my vert.
Went with energy suspension poly and wish I went with that in the first place. paid about $110 new for them and they went in perfect and perform well. 95 Cobra vert
Essn95 this is reason I ask I want to buy rubber mounts but don't want to pay to install rubber mounts and they are junk!
But also don't want poly if I will get vibrations!
Thanks for input I will need to make decision, keep opinion coming please!!!
 

Essn95

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Stay clear of anchor if you do. We wasted hours trying to get those to fit. I don’t get any noticeable vibrations that are bothersome
 

aztecgwynn

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So basically go poly and deal with minor vibrations?
Anchor only company who makes rubber mounts so those are not happening
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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With my car, i'm going poly motor mounts and a rubber OEM trans mount.

If OEM rubber mounts were available i would run them, but not sold on the quality of the current aftermarket rubber mounts.

I believe energy suspension models the convertible mounts, which are lower.
 
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Essn95

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I have a rubber trans mount as stated above. No problems with the mismatch
 

02 281 GT

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With my car, i'm going poly motor mounts and a rubber OEM trans mount.

If OEM rubber mounts were available i would run them, but not sold on the quality of the current aftermarket rubber mounts.

I believe energy suspension models the convertible mounts, which are lower.
I'm not disputing you, and I'm sure I've read it somewhere in the past, but could you go into the reasoning behind not using a poly trans mount? Is there an issue with possible damage to the transmission case?
 

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
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I'm not disputing you, and I'm sure I've read it somewhere in the past, but could you go into the reasoning behind not using a poly trans mount? Is there an issue with possible damage to the transmission case?

I believe my logic applies more to solid mounts. I read reports that solid mounts in all three spots could crack a bellhousing. So thr recommendation was to run a mount with some give on the trans.

I’m just going to do the same with poly engine mounts mainly because the engine mounts should control movement, but the rubber mount will absorb any vibrations and allow some give
 
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02 281 GT

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I believe my logic applies more to solid mounts. I read reports that solid mounts in all three spots could crack a bellhousing. So thr recommendation was to run a mount with some give on the trans.

I’m just going to do the same with poly engine mounts mainly because the engine mounts should control movement, but the rubber mount will absorb any vibrations and allow some give
Thanks. My car will eventually undergo a refreshing like yours. I want to replace bushings and mounts with poly since all are original.
 

Potomus Pete

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I have solid motor mounts from LMR . The plate type they have. Recently put them in because my fan was rubbing bad. I like them a lot. Feels very much the same as before with no vibrations to speak of . You do get a direct connection feel at the wheels . My motor sits about two inches higher now. Not that you want them but somebody else might be looking it up. I was looking for info on here before I got them on here and there isnt much
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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Imo going from rubber to poly motor/trans mounts isn’t much of a difference.

With how difficult it is to find a quality rubber mounts, you’re better off just going poly anyways.

For the record though, we do a lot of ls swaps (mainly Chevy trucks) and run solid mounts in almost of them. Never get any complaints
 
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7991LXnSHO

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I went with a poly transmission mount when I had the tailshaft busing and driveshaft replaced. I think I may hear some more whine in 3rd, but as I no longer have dronemaster mufflers and have had plenty of power going through the T-5, it may not be anything new. It is less noise than the BBK TB makes as it whistles with IAC, so it’s not a problem. I will not be switching back for street as the car seems tighter on take off.