one piece oil pan gasket=/

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by Jon350, Oct 2, 2004.

  1. I put on the fel-pro one piece rubber/metal oil pan gasket. The directions specifically say not to use any additional gasket sealing materials (ie: permatex) to help seal everything. well installation was easy ......i just wish i used the normal gaskets with extra sealant. There's a fine bead of oil forming around the front bulk head part of the gasket.(and this is just one week later)...................anyone got any opinions on the matter? (aside from user error =/ )
  2. did you use a torque wrench and the proper tightening sequence?

    sounds like at least one may be over or under tightened. probably over.

    oops, just noticed, you said aside from user error. sorry
  3. I just got one of those today to install my oil pan on. Very nice, not sure about leakage as the engine is not in the car yet. I sure hope it doesn't leak, but I'm not sure yet. Your sure that you torque everything correctly and in the correct order? If so, your oil pan may not be perfectly straight or something along those lines. If everything is ok, I would say the gasket is not up to par.
  4. I've used the Fel-pro 1 piece several times and have never had any problems. If you step torqued in the right sequence the only other problem I can think of is maybe a distorted pan.
  5. I too have used the one piece gasket many times now and never had a leak. Did you also use the factory pan rail stiffeners with the one piece gasket ? If you didn't, that may be the reason you now have a leak. Also you need to tighten the pan from the middle, outward to the ends.
  6. One more piece of advice, do not throw away those four plastic studs that come with the gasket, they're a life saver when trying to install the pan while the engine's in the car.
  7. ok well i looked everywhere in my schematics manual and they mention nothing as far as torque specs for the bolts, so i closely guesstimated.............ok I thought i properly sequenced it but this was at 4am so i might have had a blond moment.......somebody tell me the torque specs on the 4 main bolts, the rest of the bolts, and the tightening sequence for the bolts(i.e. center to outer...?) oh and by the way does anyone think a little sealant would really corrode the stuff? thank you!
  8. If using the pan rail stiffeners, you need no torque specs, just tighten them till they're tight,using your wrist, you'll feel that when it happens. If not using the stiffeners, contact Felpro for their recommendations, you won't be able to tighten them as much without the stiffeners. And as for the sequence, like I said before, start in the middle of the pan and work back and forth across the pan to the ends. The 4 larger bolts at the corners should be tightened last.
  9. I just bought one of these on the weekend. Over fifty two bucks plus tax, so I want to get this installed right. It's an early 302 with a stock pan. There were no instructions saying not to use RTV, but it does look like it should be installed dry. I have read on the site here that RTV should be used in the corners. I also have the shoulder bolts that are supposed to leave the proper gap when tightening with a regular gasket, but won't know untill I get into it if they have enough space for the new one. Any recommendations?

    I must say this a great looking piece that seems far superior to any cork and rubber combo I've ever installed.
  10. The one piece is great. Do not use any sealent on it, you will not need it with that. You do have to make sure you tighten down the pan bolts in the correct sequence, just like when you use a 1 piece rubber valve gasket. Start in the middle and work your way out alternating sides. The big ones are last. I have had no problem with mines since the engine install.
  11. There are two kinds of oil pans, that old school and the 5.0 style. The difference is that the rails on the 5.0 style are flat, while the rails on the old school style have ridges stamped into them, to retain the cork rail gaskets. Many aftermarket pans (e.g. Canton) have the ridges too.

    There are therefore two kinds of one piece pan gaskets, one that's compatible with the ridges and the more common kind that's not. I don't know if the ridge-friendly ones work on a flat rail pan -- they probably do -- but if you have a pan with ridges, make sure you've got the ridge-friendly gasket or stick with the old reliable four-piece.
  12. The gasket I got was '68 - '86 specific, so I am confident it is the right one for my pan.
  13. I installed it yesterday. Some tips for those who wish to do this are:

    1. The oil pan doesn't fit between the starter and the driver's side long tube header. Remove the starter before the pan or it is a messy hassle.

    2. Drop the center link at, or including, the idler arm and pitman arm. Again, there just isn't quite enough room to clear the pan.

    3. If your engine is out of the car and you need a new gasket, spend the bucks and get one of these before installing it. I thought I had that cork and rubber gasket installed perfect when it was on the stand, but it appears to have splt near the front and was getting on the balancer and spraying all over the passenger side apron and battery tray (not really a bad thing as my neighbour pointed out), but driving often meant I was going through nearly a quart per week.
  14. I have dropped that pan 4 times in a month because of little things, and believe me it is not that hard. Atleast we aren't like the 5.0's or classic square body chevs, they have to take the engine out to do it. The first time it took me around 3 hours to do the whole thing by the 4th time I got it done in 30-45 minutes off and on, then started the car. I love the Fel-Pro one piece gaskets, they can't be overtightened to cause warpage, they have the metal insertsaround the holes to prevent that. Also I have installed them both dry, and with RTV and both work. The engine builder at my machine shop uses a thick bead of black RTV on it with the gasket, and has never had leaks.

    As KK said you will have to move the starter, what I do is take out the bottom bolt, then loosen the top one enough so I can swivel the starter to the side and get those bolts. The steering linkage can be dropped with simply two bolts on the passenger frame. Also the crossmember will have to come out. That should be it.
  15. I like to put a little RTV where the timing cover meets the block. It's like a deep crack that can pass oil between the gasket and the block.
  16. i just recently installed the 4 piece cork/rubber gasket. I didnt use any type of tightening method...just alternated sides. I used gasket tack and rtv...I havent fired the car up wondering if i should just drop the pan and retighten in everything in sequence to avoid the possibility of leaks.

    what do you guys think? if i should drop the pan to retighten....should i replace the gasket?
  17. The gasket will probably break into pieces when you remove the pan.
  18. I would try it first before taking it back apart. The pan in not that sensitive to a tightening sequence (except overtorqing). It's too flimsy to really matter as long as all the bolts are snug.
  19. I'm watching this too, as I am replacing mine with a one piece and do not want to do it again. I have a CANTON Racing pan, if that makes a difference...