Ongoing Overheating Issue - Used to be fan

95GTvert[bv12]

95GTvert[bv12]

Founding Member
Apr 1, 2001
1,792
0
37
Lake Tahoe, NV
#1
Ok so everything was fine until i broke the electric connector to the fan when replacing the harmonic balancer for the second time. I figured this out the first time the car over heat and then the second time i zip tied it tight.

For a while on my drive to work the temp will quickly spike to the L on the stock gauge and then slowly drop back down to just under the O and then be fine for the rest of the drive. That was until recently.

Now it over heats after moving for a while. The only way i can stop it from over heating is keep the rpm's at about 3k while driving.

The upper radiator house is hot so i think the t-stat is fine.

Steam is now coming out of the end tanks of the radiator when it's really hot so i know it's actually over heating.

I can hear the fan when i park so it must be turning on.

I'm going to Napa tomorrow to get a new Belt as the one i have is crazy loose and old so i figure it's a good place to start. But what else could be causing this?
 

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#3
And if there is steam coming from the radiator end tanks then the radiator is leaking and not holding pressure. That also will cause an overheating condition. Sounds to me you need a new radiator as well.
 
#4
Yeah i was planing on getting a new radiator....although with everything i've read about all the after market ones these days i may just get a 2003 cobra radiator or something.

I'll buy the belt today and some JB weld for my current end tanks ...it's only leaking on one side so just need something to hold it together while i confirm what other parts i need to order.

Hopefully the belt solves some of the cooling issues..... the water pump doesn't even have 30k miles on it and it's a stock replacement.
 
#5
If it's spiking and then coming down, you have air pockets in the cooling system. That would be consistent with leaking end tanks on your radiator, since they've probably introduced air into the system somewhere. What's happening is the coolant temperature is getting high enough to cause it to expand and you see flow, which is when the temperature spikes and then comes back down as it circulates through the radiator. You'll need to repair the leaks and burp the cooling system, to get any air out.
 
#7
Although a head gasket is not impossible (from the time it spent without a fan), I am with Matt on this.
First thing that came to mind when you were talking temp spikes was low water or air pockets.

I would replace the radiator before doing anything else.
That is most likely the problem, therefore throwing money at a belt, pump, or stat is sure to be a waste until you rule out the OBVIOUS.
 
#8
Another vote for a new radiator here. the coolant system MUST stay under pressure to keep from overheating. If it can't stay pressurized, the temperature WILL spike and you WILL overheat. I had a similar issue with the car getting really hot. In my case, I hadn't tightened my hose clamps enough. I found this out when I bought a coolant system pressure tester - basically an air pump with a special radiator cap with an attachment for the pump. I'd pressurize the system and water would leak from under a clamp. Tighten that clamp, and it would leak out of another one. Basically, whack-a-mole with coolant leaks. Once I got all the clamps tightened down and the system held 16lbs of pressure, engine temps went back to normal.
 
#11
A blown head gasket is a very common cause of bubbles in the cooling system. Most of the cars I work on with those symptoms end up having a blown head gasket.

Kurt
 
#12
I won't rule out the head gasket either but i do have a few obvious things i should fix before taking the heads off. I may have gotten an air bubble in when it over heated the first time...and by over heat i mean i saw the temp getting high in city traffic and turned on the heater pulled over and turned it off only to have my coolant bubble over. Once it was cool enough i plugged my fan back in and added some water....maybe the bubble started then...If not maybe it's finally time for some aluminum heads.

So what should i do for a New Radiator any suggestions? I hear all the aftermarket ones crack.

And my belt is so loose i don't think i need anything other then my hand to take it off at this point so i kinda have to do that.
 
#13
If you know you have a cracked radiator just replace it.

A couple of questions for me and that might help him...
Head gasket: wouldn't he see some water in oil if he has a blown H-gasket?
when is the last time you changes your radiator cap? If it is not able to hold pressure it can make the car run hot.
 
#14
texmirage said:
If you know you have a cracked radiator just replace it.

Head gasket: wouldn't he see some water in oil if he has a blown H-gasket?
Click to expand...

Very rarely. Usually it blows from the combustion chamber to the water passage, and no water gets in the oil. It has to blow from the combustion chamber to the valley to get water in the oil, which is a greater distance.

Kurt
 
#18
I agree with ya'll on this. I would go ahead with the radiator replacement. All it can do is help if it is leaking anyway. Although, if it is a head gasket, at least they are fairly easy on our cars. You can diagnose a blown head gasket with a block tester. most shops should have them.
 
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