Opinions/advice on my 95 project

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by JonezySN95, Oct 19, 2011.

  1. I was browsing around looking at jegs and such and came across this website that has completed engines for sale. I think its a decent price for the quality and guarantee they give. All motors come with a 2 yr unlimited mile warranty. Im thinking on getting the dart block 363 stroker with 500 hp. I called them and asked about carb vs efi and the carb setup was 11k. The efi he said add around 3500 more and I would have to upgrade my own fuel system either way. The efi setup comes with new computer (tuned) and wiring harness ect. Witch ever way I go the motor will come with everything so I just drop it in and go ( except if I go carb I have to get the MSD 6al box). I am also wanting to do a tranny swap from aode to manual and he can also sell me a 600tko with pedals, driveshaft, trans bracket ect. for 4k. I would like everyones opinion on this please. Is it a good deal? Does anyone know of a better deal? I know the controversy on going to carb from efi but the money is already high and im on a budget. Im planning on doing this next year sometime so I have some time to plan it. Thanks in advance.

  2. They are using quality parts that's for sure, but the price is a little steep. I think the injection setup he is selling is packaged more for a street rod that doesn't come with a wiring harness. You can reuse almost all lf your original injection system on your car. $4k for a tko600 is rediculius, you can get a T56 for that amount of money. It also has a solid cam which is not street friendly. I'd pass on the deal. You can get a custom engine built for less.

  3. He is also using Dart or Edelbrock heads, neither of which is very good. $11k ought to put you into an Afr 205 or better.
  4. Thanks Kurt. When I called and talked to him though he said it did come with the wiring harness, and im worried about choking the engine if I use some/most of my injection system. The tranny package he quoted me on was including everything for an aode to manual swap as well. I like the idea of the t56 but will it hold up to 600tq? I would hate to put a lot of money into this project and break something right away or need more tuning/tweeking that I cant do myself. I do agree though it is a steep price, but I was willing to pay some extra to get the quality. I am still at a begginer level when it comes to serious hp and im ready to step up a level but wanting to do it right.
  5. I'm actually not too sure what heads he is using but I will do some research on it to find out. I'm really just wanting to be in the 500hp range with a somewhat good streetable car as well. Thats why im leaning more towards keeping efi. Oh the choices... :shrug:
  6. my engine has good parts, and it is for sale ...

    heck, even though i dropped about 10K on just my engine, and have a whole lot more in my car than 11K, you could have my whole car for 11K. it is already tuned and runs great.

    just saying ...
  7. Haha thanks fo rthe offer, but my first car was an 84 vert. I liked it but it would take a lot more (chassis wise). Plus the weight is a little more. How much for your engine and what numbers does it put down? Also is it carbed or efi?

    I have been scrolling around on jegs some more and I may just get the 363 short block and piece it together with afr 205's ect. I just wish I knew how to find out what combo would work together. I want a monster cam (im a sucker for the sound) so I need to keep an eye on valve to piston clearance. I feel like im reading another language when I try to figure in the deck height, gasket thickness, cam lift, ect. I know the assembled 205 heads from jegs can take up to a .710 for the ones i was looking at but can the pistons. Then comes the intake... Oh my head is spinning lol.
  8. wait a minute ... didn't you just say you wanted a "somewhat good streetable car"? a big old nasty cam does not fit with that goal ... just saying ...

    the picture in my avatar is my engine.

    my motor has AFR 205 heads, comp pro magnum rockers, and accufab mid length headers. the cam is custom ground for mid range torque because mine is a 100% street car and my driving habits hardly ever take me to 5000 rpm. it is EFI, with a TwEECer tuning system that used to tune it myself. it also has a polished alternator, polished AC compressor, polished water pump, and march brackets, and a BBK 75mm throttle body.

    the intake on it is currently a polished pro products typhoon, which is certain to be the biggest air flow restriction. again, mine is a street car and i was going more for bling the bang. i also have a edelbrock junior victor lower (converted for EFI) that i was planning on putting on with an intake elbow, but with the fairlane, my focus has shifted and i never got around to picking out an elbow and putting it all together. i'd throw in the jr victor.

    i have never taken it to a dyno. my guess is that the torque would be through the roof from before 3000 up to 5000 rpm, but the top end numbers would probably disappoint because of the typhoon. with the other intake on there, it would most likely put down 400+ to the wheels.

    i'd let it go for $5000.

  9. Haha I know a huge cam would be hardly streetable but I want a big enough cam to get that heart pumping tingling feeling when i drive it and still get around town with. 5K is an awesome deal for that though! I just may have to take you up on that deal but I was planning on getting started next year cause im currently knocking off alot of pesky bills. I can probably scrounge that up though. Does everything you listed come with it to include the tweecer? And can you pm me how you would accept payment method? Im definitely intrigued :nice:
  10. that link is way overpriced. you'd have better luck going to a builder like DSS or CHP or fordstrokers and telling them your goals. that guy looks like more what kurt said, a crate engine drop in for a restomod/hot rod.

    and that is just nuts to pay 3500 for EFI. just that much money alone could buy you a used top end kit and a vortech and get 400hp. your fuel injection system will be fine if you upgrade the fuel pump and the injectors. everything else is fine.

    if all you wanted was 500hp, there is always just a good h/c/i with a supercharger on it. or hell, just slap a turbo on.
  11. To get a nice streetable 500hp engine you are probably looking at a 408 displacement deal. BlackVert really is offering the deal of a lifetime. The parts in that engine are worth $5k. You could have it totally reworked to make whatever you wanted power wise and still not bust $11k. Mh 347 is about at the limit of what I consider streetable and probably mames in the range of 460hp with much better heads than the engine in your original post. I have had to convert the car to manual brakes for that too. T56 will definately handle that much torque if you build it right.

  12. Yeah the more deals I find now the more that seemed like a terrible idea. I know a good bit about cars ive just never built an engine and NEVER messed with anything close to 500hp. I am reading as much as possible so I dont get screwed in this project. Im glad I asked!
  13. Yes Blackvert has most deffinatly gave me a deal that I would be stupid to pass up! Quick question though...

    Why did you have to convert to manual brakes? (I am still noob I guess)

    Instead of building my own T56 where could I buy a good one that would hold the power and not take my arm and leg from me?
  14. Because big cam engines like that one you posted don't produce any vacuum at idle. The power brakes require vacuum from the intake manifold to power them. Proper vacuum for the brakes is about 16". My engine produces 9.5", and the engine you posted almost certainly has even less vacuum that because it has an even bigger camshaft. So you go to hit the brakes and it's like trying to crush a rock with your foot. Don't let anyone convince you that you can fix this with a vacuum canister either. I tried using 2 vacuum canisters and a vacuum gauge to monitor them, it still didn't work. You either have to put manual brakes on the car, or convert it to the hydroboost system that comes on the 96' and up Mustangs, which is a pretty pricey conversion.

  15. Well, sort of. I have about 11 inHg at idle. However, vacuum isn't an issue coming down from speed. The vacuum then will be in the mid to high 20's. The problem for me was that the stock GT brakes were just not cutting it. After I switched to the Mach1 calipers and rotors to assist, braking/stopping became a non-issue.
  16. If you leave it in gear and hit the brakes while it's coasting down, yes. But this isn't always an option. And even with giant brakes like we have, it can still be real inconsistent.

  17. NOOB question warning:

    Is a lack of vacuum a result of overlap in the cam? I'm having a hard time seeing how valve lift by itself (without overlap) would cause that.
  18. Yes, it's due to the overlap.

  19. Well I definatly want BlackVert's 408w so that is in the process of happening. I have a few questions though. Since the Typhoon is the restrictor for that engine eventually I will put on the jr victor he is throwing in with the deal. Where can I find the elbow for this intake? I see a lot of elbows for the 4.6 version, but im assuming these wont work. And for future plans I may want to put some boost on it so what are the things I should look at to lower the CR from 10.27:1 to 8.5:1? I know pistons, thickness of head gaskets, and bigger combustion chambers. I dont know what im looking at when it comes to aftermarket pistons and such. And could I get the combustion chambers machined to be bigger? I dont want to re-buy these expensive parts if I dont have to.