Opinions for best set up for future HP power adders?

[blk92stangg]

Hi all,

I have a 127,000 mile GT that I have been slowly bring back to good operating condition, like basic tune up, struts, seals, interior, suspension and a T5 conversion. My question is, I would like to eventually either freshen up the existing bottom end, or purchase a new short block, but have no idea what kind of compression, rods, pistons, etc would be good to get. I dream of 350-400 HP to the rear wheels EVENTUALLY, most likely forced induction, although nitrous would not be out of the question. I guess I want to spend my money on the bottom end once, and have it be done right for future power, but at the same time, would want decent performance until I can get the blower or nitrous going (if that is even possible).

 

[65ShelbyClone]

If you want an engine that will be good without a blower and with one, keep the compression around 9.0:1. If you know you'll want(alot) more power on low octane(pump premium) gas, then consider 8.8, but not much lower.

I imagine my engine would take 400rwhp without breaking a sweat. For a budget engine you can use Speedpro forged slugs, stock rods, and stock crank. Those parts will take enough power to split the block. Something you might consider for your goals without using a power adder is a 331 or 347.

With a blower, a factory forged piston shortblock will easily take 350-400rwhp.

 

[blk92stangg]

Wow, I guess factory stuff ain't too bad after all? For the most part, since the bottom end is coming apart, would most guys spend the extra money for better rods, pins, rings, etc? Would the stronger parts necessarily add up to longer engine life if horsepower numbers are kept in a reasonable range?

Thanks for the info BTW : )

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I mentioned that a factory shortblock with forged pistons will take 400rwhp, but I didnt mention that they will also take enough power to make the block fail(anywhere from 450-600rwhp, depending on circumstances). I've seen many posts between here and the Corral alluding to the fact that if you need better rods, then you need a better block. Pistons will probably come with pins and I've never once heard of a piston pin failing. I would say ductile iron rings will work for you. Moly rings are really hard, dont usually break in easily and I've heard they alow more oil consumption(but they are necessary at high power levels).

Stronger parts usually do mean more longetivity with elevated power. It really helps if the parts are lighter than stock and everything is balanced well. Less rotational mass puts less stress on the rest of the assembly.

It would be good if some people with more personal experience came in and shared their opinions. Its always good to get more than one point of view.