what yall think in regards to changing the gaskets or whats the rule of thumb with these ?
Options For Fixing This Rust On Headers
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Not sure what you are asking in regards to the plenum gaskets. You just change them. No rule of thumb to apply.
I think on a fox one header comes out the top, one goes out the bottom. I can't remember, it's been so long since I did longtubes on a fox. I know they both go in through the bottom on an SN.
Kurt
I think on a fox one header comes out the top, one goes out the bottom. I can't remember, it's been so long since I did longtubes on a fox. I know they both go in through the bottom on an SN.
Kurt
rather they need to be changed say you take off the upper plenum 3 times in a yr. In other words, this guy who is an ASE mechanic though he hasnt worked on jet aircrafts in yrs and yrs, say he learned long time ago to just replace them everytime you take off the plenum. Now some people do it just to do it, but is it necessary since no silicone pulls any paper apart or anything. I saw a minor , sort of unnoticable impression in the gaskets and wondering if they need to be changed. I can post pics tommorow if u want
Ok, gotcha. If the gasket still looks good, and is soft, then it doesn't need to be changed.
Kurt
Kurt
ok kool. When you put on intake gaskets, do you put a small amount on the heads to get the gaskets to stay in place and let it tack up for bout 10 mins or so while the front and rear silicone tacks up as well?
I thought we were talking about plenum gaskets. On the intake gaskets, I tach the paper ones and hold them until they stick on their own. The RTV needs about 15 minutes to harden a little before you drop the intake on it and tighten it down.
Kurt
Kurt
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
No need to replace the intake gaskets on a header install. The Ford factory gaskets are acutally pretty darn good copper ones and can be reused, or get a good set of either Percy's copper or Ultra seal copper gaskets. If you use the Felpro paper ones, I put a smear of copper RTV on both sides and let it tack up, then install them. For bolts, I use SS 1" long allen head bolts from True Value or Home Depot with lock washers. Much easier to install than header bolts and just retorque them once after a heat cycle and they will not back out,
i was asking about both lol. First the plenum, then for reference on the intake gaskets as to how to get them to stay in place
blown intake gasket so i have to replace them
i have the header gaskets that came with the shortie, metal gaskets or copper im sure
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I would always replace the intake to head gasket any time you have removed the intake, unless it was for mock up. No sense taking a chance for $20. The upper to lower can be reused over as long as it isn't compressed so much it compromises sealing. Again, if any doubt replace it.
For the lower intake gasket, get the Felpro steel reinforced set with the blue rubber end pieces, not the crappy cork ones. Put a few dabs of weather adhesive on the intake gaskets so they don't move around, and a light smear of red RTV around the water jackets as added protection. I put a light smear of RTV on the front and back rubber pieces, let it tack up and then lay them down, along with a nice dab of RTV in the corner where it meets the intake gaskets on the heads. Let that sit for a good 15-20 minutes. Snug up the bolts and then and then torque them in phases according to the specs and sequence for that manifold. After a heat cycle you will want to go back and retorque the lower again. I didnt cover every step but jrichker has a good write up on an intake install worth reading.
Sorry if I didn't catch this, what intake are you running, as you'll want a different gasket set.
edelb perf rpm 2
i ordered the felpro 1250s3 gaskets
i guess a dab of rtv around the water jackets on the head side should be enough to get it to where it will stick and once i lower the intake on i can reposition if has a slight move, plus i will have 4 stud guides.
remove the upper to retorque the next day if some bolts are hard to reach ?
If you ask 10 different people which intake gaskets to use, and how to install them, you are going to get 10 different answers. Everyone has some trick they swear by. I do them by the book, and I never have problems.
Kurt
Kurt
i know, i was just clarifying that i indeed were asking about both gaskets the plenum and the intake.
Now as for reference to my number 8 header on drivers side near backside of engine bay, the hole needs rethreading and its tight for space. I already talked to a guy about coming maybe saturday to see if he can get to it to rethread it. If he cant I have one more guy i have to ask tommorow. In the even that we can't get to it here at my house, then at this guys shop he might can get to it better on his life. Would I be ok with that bolt as tight as it can get and drive it for about 30 miles to his shop? I dont want to mess anything up and thats why i wanted them to come here and see if they can fix it here
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Edelbrock perf 2 install instructions
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/350/350-7184.pdf
I thnk Edelbrock recommends their 7220 intake gasket set for their manifolds, but I am not sure if it has the steel core like the 1250S3. There may be a slight difference in water passage sizes.
For the bolt hole, it is far easier to repair with the header off. Can you run a tap into the hole to try and clean it up? If not, you can try either a steel helicoil insert or loctite makes a chemical helicoil compound that works faurly well.
i call
i called the tech line the other day and he said the ones i ordered would be fine. Only diff from the 1250 and 1250s3 is the steel core
In regards to the header bolt situation, if we can't get to it to helicoil it then i will just have to wait till i get the car back together then take it to a shop so they can get it in the air. Here is the reason why that might have to happen. If I recall correctly, I had my X pipe welded where it was a clamp that connected it to the pipes because i think back then I had little leaks in that area every so often. I have to look at it and check because if thats the case the exhaust will have to be unbolted further back to get the X out of the way. That would make the use of a lift very much needed I think. How bad would it be to drive the car with that one header bolt not tight, or as tight as it could be but obviously that one header spot having only one torqued down bolt? I would need to drive it to the shop to have that done and so that's between 20 and 70 miles.
Lastly, have you seen the oil fill neck extension? Someone had sent me a link to an extension that would help my situation. Using the 86-95 chrome valve covers, the oil fill neck is near the pass side front and the cap hits the cold air kit's tube. An extension will eliminate the aggrivation I face when having to remove that cap. One guy said he actually cut the neck , bought the correct radiator hose with a bend, and made his own extension and clamped it down good and it worked fine but I was wanting a more OEM type look.
Lastly, have you seen the oil fill neck extension? Someone had sent me a link to an extension that would help my situation. Using the 86-95 chrome valve covers, the oil fill neck is near the pass side front and the cap hits the cold air kit's tube. An extension will eliminate the aggrivation I face when having to remove that cap. One guy said he actually cut the neck , bought the correct radiator hose with a bend, and made his own extension and clamped it down good and it worked fine but I was wanting a more OEM type look.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
A bolt like this or similiar:
View attachment 121398
Regarding one out of 8 bolt being loose, you won't damage anything but have a nice exhaust leak. If the collector end is all FUBAR, it's best to address it all at once when it is up on a lift. Sounds more a and more like a new set of headers is in order.
yeah i will ask the guy if he thinks he can get them lined back up to bolt up if i were to remove and paint. If he doesnt think so then I will get a new set
Did u get stainless steel bolts or what kind?
now i'm all about just fixing the damn thing and be done lol. I will get a nice set of ceramic coated, shiny type that won't rust. I guess i need to decide if i wana go longtubes and consider the mods that will have to be done for fitment. From alot of stuff I've read shorties make just as much power as the longs though right? As far as sound, does the longs give it a more deeper, hollow, better overall sound though? The tone might play in to my going longs or not
I am just going to go ahead and try and maybe rethread it after I get everything back together because I can actually lean over the intake using it as a brace and reach behind the drivers side head and over the valve cover with the other hand and will try and see if i can get a good angle on rethreading it. I mainly wana get it snugged as best i could till i get it to the shop so if i can get the rethreader in there i will try it
I tried using a few washers on the bolt to get it to bite sooner and it worked a little better locking down the flange but not that much better ...
any suggestions that i didnt mention for a quick fix though u said I should be
I tried using a few washers on the bolt to get it to bite sooner and it worked a little better locking down the flange but not that much better ...
any suggestions that i didnt mention for a quick fix though u said I should be
