Engine Over Heating Issues

Old Skooler

Founding Member
Feb 27, 2012
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Recently I just installed a new aerospace electric water pump 55 gpm, be cool 3 row radiator, 160 tstat, and new hoses on my 11:5 to 1 331 w/ edlebrock heads. No matter what I do the car is still running extremely hot 220 to 230 while driving, but at idle it drops within a minute or 2 back down to 180. I can leve the car idling and it stay steady at 180. I have an auto meter water temp gauge so I'm assuming it's correct

I have ran the car with the cap off got all the air out of the system, I'm running all water with the water wetter additive.

Is there something I'm missing? Do high compression motors run this out. Any advise would be helpful I'm at the end of my rope with this car!!!
 
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Do the temp changes seem reasonable to you? Dropping 40-50*F in 1-2 minutes is an awful lot.

Where's the gauge's sender located?
Is there a spring in the lower rad hose?
Does it ever run cool at speed (i.e. in the middle of the night when ambient temps are cooler)?
 
@ hissan, the temp drop doesnt seem reeasonable which makes me think in part it's the gauge. It's a carberated car so the sending unit ties into the intake and runs through the side between the valve covers and intake. I have a push fan and it's cranking. Day or night the car does almost the same thing, it maybe a few degrees cooler at night but it's not a big difference.

Is there something internal that could be wrong?

Does anyone know the temp a higher compression motor should run at?
 
What's the pusher fan set-up look like?

Did the car ever run cool with that fan in place (while driving at speed)?

The shroud itself might be too much of an impediment to ambient air flow when you're at speed (it could be blocking air flow across the radiator).
 
HISSIN mentioned the spring in the rad hose. run the motor up and have someone check the lower rad hose to make sure it isnt colapsing.