Hey everyone, not so much a newbie to the mustang world, but a newbie fo sho to stangnet. Ill introduce myself later on as time goes by, though I need to make my first post here, cuz the 5.0 I bought few months back is really starting to piss me off.
First off, its a 1995, coupe, 190,000 miles. Whats been done to it to help out in the troubleshooting to follow? That I can remember its got a NEW: fuel pump and filter, transmission, pullies, a/c compressor, bbk cold air intake, spark plugs, cables, rear main seal, msd coil, msd dizzy cap [still a stock dizzy], brakes and suspension. All the new things have been on the car for about 2,000 miles.
Next, I live in Las Vegas. Currently the temps have been always over 100 degrees.
Ok, so the car after being driven for about an hour or so, seems to overheat, itll bog like a SOB, and die. The gauge in the dash still reads normal, though the engine its WAY hot to touch after being driven. Dont think it should be THAT hot, even the hood latch is too hot to grab. Anywho, I try to turn the car back on and itll turn on for a second, then itll die. I would have to wait about 2 to 3 hours, and itll crank right back up as advertised and itll run fine.
I took it in once, when the problem first started and thought it may have been the fuel filter. It got changed. And the problem kept coming. That was about a month ago. I took it in again this past saturday to another shop who can read codes through a OBD1 diagnostic code reader and they found NOTHING. Meaning, everythings been working as advertised ever since the problem started.
Confusing!
Now things that have been discussed with other people [with local friends, friends off forums] that the problem may be would be:
1. Clogged Cat
2. Bad Ignition Control Module
3. Dirty MAF/TPS/IAC
4. Bad PIP
5. Bad Distributor altogether
What I personally think now after finding out the car never threw a code, that this is being done by some natural cause of physics. Now that I know I have all power and I have all fuel system components working to get the engine on [still with 45 psi to the injectors], whats left to check is spark. So maybe some electrical connection somewhere in the ignition system is getting too hot, itll expand the "electrodes" in the QD's enough to disconnect themselves, then after letting it sit for a while, itll cool down, reconnect, and voila. Car works.
Wait, theres more...
Then this happened this afternoon, my LOW OIL light came on. Why? I dunno, cuz I know I dont have a leak cuz I dont leave any puddles. I may be burning the oil or the leak may just be spreading the oil thats leaking out all over the undercarriage while I drive. So with low oil, could unlubricated friction in the internal's rotation cause the engine to over heat, thus causing the electrical problem if there is one?
Im pretty sick of whats going on, and I need some real answers, cuz everyone else is just as stumped as I am.
Thanks guys!
-John
First off, its a 1995, coupe, 190,000 miles. Whats been done to it to help out in the troubleshooting to follow? That I can remember its got a NEW: fuel pump and filter, transmission, pullies, a/c compressor, bbk cold air intake, spark plugs, cables, rear main seal, msd coil, msd dizzy cap [still a stock dizzy], brakes and suspension. All the new things have been on the car for about 2,000 miles.
Next, I live in Las Vegas. Currently the temps have been always over 100 degrees.
Ok, so the car after being driven for about an hour or so, seems to overheat, itll bog like a SOB, and die. The gauge in the dash still reads normal, though the engine its WAY hot to touch after being driven. Dont think it should be THAT hot, even the hood latch is too hot to grab. Anywho, I try to turn the car back on and itll turn on for a second, then itll die. I would have to wait about 2 to 3 hours, and itll crank right back up as advertised and itll run fine.
I took it in once, when the problem first started and thought it may have been the fuel filter. It got changed. And the problem kept coming. That was about a month ago. I took it in again this past saturday to another shop who can read codes through a OBD1 diagnostic code reader and they found NOTHING. Meaning, everythings been working as advertised ever since the problem started.
Confusing!
Now things that have been discussed with other people [with local friends, friends off forums] that the problem may be would be:
1. Clogged Cat
2. Bad Ignition Control Module
3. Dirty MAF/TPS/IAC
4. Bad PIP
5. Bad Distributor altogether
What I personally think now after finding out the car never threw a code, that this is being done by some natural cause of physics. Now that I know I have all power and I have all fuel system components working to get the engine on [still with 45 psi to the injectors], whats left to check is spark. So maybe some electrical connection somewhere in the ignition system is getting too hot, itll expand the "electrodes" in the QD's enough to disconnect themselves, then after letting it sit for a while, itll cool down, reconnect, and voila. Car works.
Wait, theres more...
Then this happened this afternoon, my LOW OIL light came on. Why? I dunno, cuz I know I dont have a leak cuz I dont leave any puddles. I may be burning the oil or the leak may just be spreading the oil thats leaking out all over the undercarriage while I drive. So with low oil, could unlubricated friction in the internal's rotation cause the engine to over heat, thus causing the electrical problem if there is one?
Im pretty sick of whats going on, and I need some real answers, cuz everyone else is just as stumped as I am.
Thanks guys!
-John
