Overheating..... Add Pusher Fan???

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by Pops Fun, Jul 4, 2013.

  1. Hi
    Back in Sept. 2010 thought I had this whipped....
    New connector, fan and shroud and think I replaced the ccrm....
    Put a Fluidyne radiator in around 08 ???

    Now the problem... On the Hot Rod tour when i came to a long line of cars, (stop and go), with the air on the car would start slowly start overheating. Turn the air off and would stay at that temp for a little while then slowly start down. It was warm and I didn't like it....

    Thinking of adding a pusher fan to the front of the radiator, a Derale 16214 Electric Fan, Single, 14 in. Diameter, 2,100 cfm, along with a, Derale 16759 Fan Control, Thermostatic, Adjustable, 150 to 240 Degrees, Kit. Car Normal temp. is 195 degrees.

    Thought I would put it on the passenger side in front of the radiator and push more air through....

    Will this work??
    Should I put some holes in the shroud around the water return/overflow?? Fan will be on that side..
    Other suggestions..
  2. If it works please let me know, because my car does the same thing.

  3. What radiator do you have Pops? What are the specs on it? Does the fan shroud you have cover the entire radiator?

    This is what you need...
  4. You gotta watch though. Those things will suck a bird through your radiator! ;)
  5. Hi
    Thanks for the input.
    I am using a FLUIDYNE® Radiator Part # FHP20-95MU
    Core Size: 24.5W x 17.06H x 2.09D
    Core Style: 2-row with 1 inch tubes
    Overall Size: 30.5W x 17.27H x 2.4D
    Applications: 94-95 Mustang M/T
    The shroud covers the entire radiator.

    Are you using this fan??
    Is your engine "built" or stock??
    Have you idled for miles of stop and go traffic with air on and this fan??

    Not doubting your veracity I like that word :cool: just want to know where you are coming from before spending money.
    The existing fan has about a cfm of 2700 and the Spal 30102130 has about 3180... not sure it would be enough change.
  6. I am wondering if your radiator and fan combo has the fluid capacity to handle cooling a vehicle with 623 RWHP. That seems a pretty tall order for any off the shelf radiator. I am no radiator expert though. But I work at C&R Racing (as a CNC Programmer/Machinist). See if you can tell from the pic below what they specialize in... (hint: it's covering the fans with water) :D

    You could give the parts department a call and they should be able to answer your questions about the Spal fans.
  7. I had it out with Spal fans a few years back. I used to buy them all the time, and then I had 2 of them in a row seize within a few weeks.

  8. I don't doubt it. Every manufacturer has their lemons. C&R sells them by the pallet load though so I have to assume they are high quality units.
  9. What is it with the SN95's and overheating? Do they have smaller radiators than the Fox bodies? I've got a stock radiator, with a plain old Taurus fan on it feeding my H/C/I 331 and it doesn't even get close to overheating. :shrug:
  10. I don't know. The radiator is slightly smaller, and it's a tighter engine bay.


  11. Wish I had the answer... I believe the Taurus fan may have more cfm....
    In this thread kurt said he thought they flowed 3800 cfm That would be a thousand more maybe enough... ?

    How does your taurus fit??
    Overflow bottle still fit?
    Wait I see you have a fox body....

    I have done some searching and couldn't find anyone who did the taurus and then came back and said it fixed the problem.

  12. Using the method I am considering it comes down this for me.
    drill holes in the shroud around the overflow area for the electric fan flow and compromise the existing fan flow or not.

    I am not settled on any method of fixing the problem. The helper fan seemed like a straight forward approach.
    Don't really like adding another possible failure point but want it fixed!!!!!!
  13. Double post
  14. I don't know that the Taurus Fan would work and fit as well as the stock fan. It can flow a ton of air, but if it doesn't seal well around the radiator then it won't work as well as the stock fan. I'm in favor of your adding another electrical fan. We put a very high flow fan on the front of the BMW when we built it, and it made a big difference. It was a tough selection, because I wanted a fan that drew less than 10 amps since the BMW only had an 80 amp alternator. I forget what fan we ended up buying, but I just went through all the fans on Summit until I found one that flowed a lot, and was under 10 amps. I believe it was a 14" fan.

  15. Thanks kurt.... I am leaning in favor of no holes in the shroud to keep the best flow in the existing fan.... My son a smart man and a mechanic says the make it swiss cheese.. :)
  16. I agree. Nothing fits like the stock fan. I would get a pusher fan, and wire a relay that is activated to the power feed to your stock fan so that they kick on at the same time. I would just attach it with those fan ties that zip it right to the core. I can't remember if you still had AC, so it would be on the condenser core or the radiator core, which ever. The alternator on the Mustang is so over powered that an extra 10 amps won't kill it. Then let me know how much of a difference it makes, because I really need to do the same thing too. I think it's better to have one fan on each side then 2 fans on one side like that setup above.

  17. A push/pull configuration might do the trick. A fans rated CFM will be diminished by the core slowing the air down. Adding a second fan will increase the static pressure to allow each fan to more easily move the fans rated CFM of air through the radiator. But it will not increase the CFM more than the weakest fan's rated CFM. It would be interesting to find out the actual CFM a fan is pulling through a radiator versus its rated CFM. Then add the push fan to measure the difference.

    So, with that being said, adding two fans on the same side I would think would add more airflow than a push/pull config. Because if a fan is rated at 3000 CFM, and you made it a push/pull you are only at most going to see 3000 CFM. Two fans rated at 3000 CFM pulling from the same side would have to have their CFM diminished by the core by more than 50% to not perform as well. I only know this crap because I am into water cooling my computers. Feel free to look it up.
  18. Hi
    Well ordered the pusher fan and controller... Should be in beginning of next week.
    Ran a test in my driveway to prove I can overheat engine and see if after install it fixes problem. Have a base line of sorts..
    Hoping to install next week.
  19. Good luck man. I just spoke to one of the higher ups here who is over the fab shop where they make the radiators. A little background... he was a crew chief for John Hancock (Indy car driver) and chief mechanic for Emerson Fittipaldi (I know you've heard of him). He said a push pull will help, but two fans on the same side would work better. If you want me to ask someone who worked on a more familiar Indy car team as a crew chief let me know and I can go higher up and get you the same answers ;)
  20. Had to do a little trimming of the shroud and make a set of custom brackets, but it all bolts up fine. Overflow bottle also needed a custom bracket, but it fits in nearly the stock location.

    Yes, mine is a Fox body.

    Steve, are you running underdrive pulleys by chance? I had them on mine and found they were unable to keep pace with the demands of my fan (even after the 150A 3G conversion). I could always see the draw on the electrical system when my lights would dim as the fan kicked on and hear it speed up as I brought it up above idle. Even with the smallest alternator pulley possible, it still wouldn't keep up until I switched back to the stock pulleys.