OVERHEATING PLEASE HELP

TRE

New Member
Jul 2, 2004
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CHARLOTTE,NC
MY 94 IS RUNNING HOT. I HAVE REPLACED THE WATER PUMP,RAD.,ALL HOSES,ECT SENSOR,AND THE SENSOR THAT CONTROLS THE TEMP. GAUGE. I EVEN THOUGHT THAT THE FACTORY GAUGE STILL MIGHT BE BAD SO I INSTALLED A MECH.TEMP. GAUGE. THE FAN IS RUNNING GOOD AND THERE ARE NO LEAKS. THE CAR HAS A E OR B CAM IM NOT SURE WITCH,I BOUGHT IT THAT WAY. THE FACTORY TEMP. GAUGE SEEMS TO FLUXUATE WHEN YOU TURN THE AC AND LIGHTS. I ALSO HAVE AFTERMARKET PULLIES ON THE WATER PUMP AND CRANK BUT NOT THE ALT. THE ALT LOOKS LIKE A REPLACEMENT. IVE BEEN WORKING ON THE PROBLEM FOR SOMETIME AND AM ABOUT TO GIVE UP. :bang: :bang:
 
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WHEN I REPLACED THE COOLANT SYSTEM I FLUSHED THE SYSTEM. AFTER REPLACING THE SYSTEM THE CAR DID FINE FOR ABOUT 2 MONTHS. IT WAS A LITTLE COOLER OUT SIDE. BUT I DONT THANK THAT SHOULD COULD MAKE THAT BIG A DIFFERANCE. COOLER OUTSIDE TEMPS. OR AFTERMARKET RADS.
 
-Water/Coolant/Water Wetter mixture?
-T-stat? Drill two little holes on either side of the T-stat to let air bubbles through.


A NEW RADIATOR IS A MUST!!!

Fluidyne makes a nice Radiator for around $330.00. You won't be dissapointed.
 
punestang said:
A NEW RADIATOR IS A MUST!!!
see i have an issue with that statement(nothing personal just that belief) my car is mildly modded the only bolt ons ive got left are underdrives(i dont consider h/c bolt ons) never goes above much past the "O" maybe 2 the R unless im really ripping on it.....and my cooling system is TOTALLY stock...not even a cooler TSTAT...so a new radiator should not HAVE to be the answer...its obvious to me just based on my car that the factory cooling system is sufficient to a point(that i havnt reached yet) and i think cooling issues should be investigated further before replacing the radiator with a high $$$ piece...


Anthony
 
YA, I DONT THANK A BIGGER RAD IS MY PROBLEM. IM LEANING TOWARDS TIMING , CAM TIMING OR HEAD PROBLEMS. BUT JUST WANTED TO SEE IF ANYONE HAD ANY IDEAS. THIS IS THE FIRST MUSTANG IVE OWNED. SO I THOUGHT IT COULD BE A COMMON PROBLEM. :shrug:
 
TRE said:
YA, I DONT THANK A BIGGER RAD IS MY PROBLEM. IM LEANING TOWARDS TIMING , CAM TIMING OR HEAD PROBLEMS. BUT JUST WANTED TO SEE IF ANYONE HAD ANY IDEAS. THIS IS THE FIRST MUSTANG IVE OWNED. SO I THOUGHT IT COULD BE A COMMON PROBLEM. :shrug:
it does tend to be a common problem in our cars actually...and maybe mine is just "different" but i just think if my car's factory cooling system is sufficient...they should all be as long as they are in proper working order...

now that i think about it...you can wire a high speed fan switch...so that you can just throw it on and leave it on all the time...that should help...



Anthony
 
TRE said:
I AGREE, THE FACTORY SYSTEM SHOULD BE GOOD ENOUGH. WHEN I TOUCH THE UPPER HOSE I THINK I FEEL WATER PRESSURE. COULD I HAVE A FAULTY NEW WATER PUMP?
hey, anything is possible, and its worth checking out....i would do a search on the fan switch and wire that up and see if that helps for now until you can sort it all out...


Anthony
 
Is it possible to have the factory radiator 'boiled' out? I know they do this to brass radiators, maybe it's possible with the aluminum/plastic units. The water wetter will definitely help. How hot is it running? I have an electric AM water temp gauge and it will run 220ish all day long.
 
ive found that with cooling systems, a lot of little things add up to make it work or not work. just my thoughts.

what mixture of coolant and water do you run? water dissipates heat about 2.5 times better than coolant.
the last major thing to replace is the T-stat. i highly recommend the Mr Gasket 180. fully balanced, opens fully sooner, and has the bleed hole on it (no need to drill). very nice piece for 10 bucks at a speed shop or summit, etc.

you have swapped everything else major. it is normal to have the temps go up when the a/c is on. not much you can do.

how hot are you actually runnin? the underdrives certainly dont help you. one reason i will never run them....

just my random thoughts - i apologize if i asked or stated something which had already been stated - im tired.

good luck.
 
Check for air bubbles in your system. My twEECer allows me to turn my fans on at different temperatures. Even with my 347 stroker(thinner cylinder walls) I have yet to go above the O in NORMAL even in extreme driving. See if you can wire up a fan switch to turn your fans on earlier. Before I set fan speeds with the twEECer, my temps would climb to the A or the L before the fans kicked in and brought it down, but then they would turn off and allow the temps to shoot back up. It was like a see-saw effect. I think my high speed fans turn on somewhere around 195 degrees now.
 
I run a 50/50 mix of coolant maby more antifreeze than water. the cars fan comes on at about 200 or 210. with the mech. temp gauge pluged in it read 220 and seemed to stay around there. but after a little while of running at 220 temp would begin to rise and not go back down,forcing me to shut her off. i have noticed that the factory gauge tends to move up and down 10 to 20 deg. when you turn the ac on and off. how do you check for air in the system and how do you check timing. i know about the small chip you pull out buy the air filter but the timing indacator buy the crank pullie is odd. it has a circular pointer, almost like you would shine your timing lite through it to read the deg. is the correct? as soon as i figure out what is the correct spot i was going to set it at 10deg. btdc is this correct? thanks for all the help you guys have been great TRE
 
i would also like to add an opinion to this, i know VIPER says his cooling system is fine and do da day, but the location is gonna have a lot to do with the temps you see outside. In NY i don't think it gets quite as hot as it does here around SC NC GA AL and FLA. That is just my opinion, have you made sure that the little air thingy under the radiator is there, plastic piece that moves air into the radiator when moving. IT HELPS Also you can do the cooling fan mod thing so that it turns on when you want it too. Or all the time. I would run like a mixture of 30/70 water and coolant, and then run some water wetter in there. I have found one thing that works better than water wetter, and that is DEI's radiator relief. About 20 bucks a can like a quart or more though



just my .02


jason
 
i do belive to air diverter is there. how do i do the cooling fan mod,just straight wire it to a switch off the battery? and if i do this is it just a bandaid? i also just went out and checked the flow of coolant and burped the system. the flow seems to be very strong and the system is free of any air lock problems.
 
There are two speeds. Look under the tech section and find how to to the home made code reader with some wire. When you scan the ecc for codes part of the test is it turns on the low speed then the high speed fan as a test. If you do tis you should heard the low speed come on the it go to high speed. if not then it's in the ccrm or somethig like that.