P.M.S help

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by VibrantRedGT, Jan 3, 2006.

  1. Standalone needs to be turned on. You won't really know if its too much fuel w/o a wideband.

    I think you better get that wideband hooked up :D

    I'm gonna head outside and get my tune for you in a bit :nice:

    I added timing in the low load 2200 cell to try and get better gas mileage.
  2. Ok, I'll try messing with the timing again today. Its starting to rain so it will be awhile.

    Also should I enable stand alone? I've read on Troy's site about a million tunes and most have that feature off. I'm still looking for manual but I'm trying to figure out what stand alone will do for me.

  3. Well it depends with standalone. If you can get a good a/f ratio without standalone, then thats one less reason you need it. Also, if you wont be revving over the factory 6250, then you dont need it. Might be something else but i forget.

    Im not sure if your chip changes the factory rev limiter or not, but if you dont have standalone on, then the PMS can not raise the factory limiter. It needs stand alone to override the eec RL.
  4. The chip is programmed for 7000. Troy said that stand alone may override the chip anyway.

    What wideband do you guys have?

  5. Well if i remember the thread on stangtuning correctly, the chip overrides the eec and that signal is changed by the PMS. The chip in essence is your "modded" eec so if you dont have standalone on, i would assume your rev limiter would be 7000. If you turn standalone on and set the rev limiter at 6500...i would assume it would be 6500.

    I have the Innovative Motorsports LC-1 with the XD-1 Gauge. Mike has the LM-1 with a RPM converter. I know he has been happy with his and so have i with mine. I wish i had the RPM convertor thing availible..but i do have a max feature. But i found a strip of highway let me get the WOT a/f ratio almost perfect.
  6. Post some links for me if you could.

  7. Its the thread you started over there.:p
  8. Ok, I took some timing out an helped a bit. It started to rain again so I parked it. Hopefully I can play with it some more. I did a WOT run with Stand Alone on and the car is faster with it off. Again, I'll play more with it and see.
  9. Thats great you made a little progress Joe :banana:

    Every combo is different and even though we use different methods to tune,
    the basic general workings of the pcm & motor have to stay the same. :)

    Another thing that may help that low load bucking would be to take a small amount of fuel away for a leaner mixture but only at that certain place you experience the bucking.

  10. As promised heres my tune up..

    IDLE Control On/Off: off
    fuel: +12
    timing: +8
    start-up fuel: -28
    idle air adjuster:
    Low Load (Fuel first & Timing second)
    2200rpm: +14/+5
    Medium Load (Fuel first & Timing second)
    2200rpm: +36/+10
    4000rpm: +32/+9
    6000rpm: -8/+7
    7800rpm: -12/+7
    High Load (Fuel first & Timing second)
    2200rpm: +14/+10
    4000rpm: +4/+9
    6000rpm: 0/+9
    7800rpm: -2/+9
    WOT (Fuel first & Timing second)
    2200rpm: +14/+10
    4000rpm: +4/+9
    6000rpm: 0/+9
    7800rpm: -2/+9

    My cold compensation is +34%
    Standalone: ON
    Rev limiter: 6,800

    I still may need to work on the medium load a bit.
  11. Wow, that medium load is crazy. What does the wideband read at the level? What's cold compensation and how do I get there? Also what's Accel and Rcvr?

    Edit-I found my manual. 800 is Cold compensation. I'll mess with that too.
  12. Good call on the cold compensation section Mike. I've been messing with the PMS all day and seem to be getting pretty good at it. Its way more simple then the Tweecer. I just need to add things to it like a wideband and maybe datalogging capability.
  13. The cold comp fixed my cold start idle. Back with the 302 and 30lb injectors with an 80mm pro m, the car would stall the first 3-4 times upon start up. It needed the extra fuel. Now it starts up and idles perfect cold or hot :nice:
  14. Exactly what I was thinking. Car started right up after I put +28% in that field. I still have to work on the low load bucking. It's been pouring here all day and I won't drive it in the rain. The bucking is not as bad after I took a little fuel and timing out. Then I ran out of time.

    Gotta thank all that replied in this post. Car runs so much better now.:SNSign:
  15. I almost eliminated the low rpm buck. Its faint now but still there. So noboby knows what a code 4000 is?

  16. Still havent looked at the manual eh?:p Its a missing TPS signal according to the manual. I know sometimes it can give codes....might wanna ask gary on stangtuning if its something to worry about. If the car is running good i wouldnt stress about it too much.

    Oh yea, in the PMS tutorial, the links are bad for the manual. Should be....


    For the old one and


    for the new one.

  17. Thanks Nate, I'll change them.
  18. Bucking is real bad when the car is warm. Once it's warmed up it's not as bad. What should I do about it? I've tried changing fuel tables and timing.

  19. I took my car out tonight and I happened to glance at the PMS at idle. The timing was in the 20's (it bounced around in the 20's) 40* sounds like way too much and is probably hurting your idle. Lower it a bit. How much idle timing you running in the PMS? How much are you running at the distributer?