Parts needed for PI intake swap (PICS INSIDE)

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by Scrody96GT, Feb 27, 2004.

  1. Originally posted on

    This seems to be a hot topic, so I figure I'm doing us all a favor by posting this. So here's a list of parts AND pics of the parts that's needed to swap a PI intake onto NPI heads. First of all, I don't give a 'Kiss Me''Kiss Me''Kiss Me''Kiss Me' if so-and-so did it a different way, or didn't use such-and-such part...this is the way I'M doing it, so don't start in with "oh, you don't HAVE to use that". Sure, some of these you could leave out without any trouble, and several guys have done it differently. But IMO, this is the RIGHT/SAFE way to do it, so here goes.

    First pic! This shows everything you need:pI intake, NPI gaskets (2), thermostat o-ring, water pump o-ring, updated coolant/heater tube, updated alternator bracket, updated thermostat housing bolts (2), and the updated water pump nipple that connects to the heater tube.

    Here's a pic of the PI intake manifold.

    Here are the NPI gaskets.

    Here's another pic of the additional parts: big fuzzy cat, thermostat o-ring, water pump o-ring, heater tube, alternator bracket, thermostat housing bolts, and water pump nipple.

    Finally, here's a closeup of the water pump nipple.

    Here's a list with the part numbers:
    *PI intake manifold: not sure...bought mine used
    *NPI intake manifold gasket: XW7Z-9439-AA
    *Thermostat housing o-ring: F1VY-8507-A
    *Heater/coolant tube: XR3Z-18B402-AA
    *Water pump nipple: F75Z-8555-AA
    *Water pump o-ring: F1VY-8255-A
    *Alternator bracket: 1R3Z-10153-AA
    *Thermostat housing bolts: N811011-S309

    A BIG thanks to Randy Stinchcomb for help getting the parts. All of you 96-98'ers who haven't bought this stuff go STRAIGHT to the Parts forum [at] and give Randy a buzz. You won't find a better price. :nice:
  2. <---rysred

    did u (or are you going to) use RTV sealant?

    what are you doing about tapping the other coolant sensor? i heard from another guy there's a place you can screw it into on the block but i wasnt sure, anyone know anything about this?
  3. You can put it in or near the t-stat housing. There are usually issues with another technique.
  4. Yep, I'm going to use a little on each port, around the edge of the NPI gasket. As for the second temp sensor, I'm going to drill and tap this spot on the crossover. If you've got a '96 or '97 year car, that freeze plug in the block is IMPOSSIBLE to get to because of the motor mount, so that's out of the question.

    Here's the spot I'm gonna get drilled and tapped.
  5. is that same spot on the 2000 PI intake? its not on me to check right now
  6. ... :scratch:

    I'm not quite sure what you're asking, but all PI intakes with the aluminum crossover have that spot.
  7. The 2000 PI intake doesn't have an aluminum crossover.

    I've heard of people drilling/taping the plastic but that doesn't sound like the greatest idea to me.

    Another option is to weld a threaded bung onto the thermostat housing for the second sensor.
  8. Yeah, the drilling the plastic sounds like a bad plan to me too. I guess your only option RysRed is to go with the t-stat housing route. I currently have the sending unit for my Autometer gauge in the t-stat housing, but I can't really tell if it works good cause the gauge is screwed up right now.
  9. Do you have any pics of your t-stat housing? I was thinking about doing this.
  10. I also got my PI Intake swap parts from Randy just this past Monday. Great guy to deal with. I got all the parts you listed, but he mentioned nothing about the new t-stat bolts. :shrug: In addition to your list, I also ordered a 180 degree thermostat and gasket to replace the stocker one for under $10.00. I believe he told me it's for the Lightning. Figured it was worth changing since the car is 5 years old and I'll have it out anway.

    Just to add to the RTV, we also need Coolant to replace what we remove. The part number that i have listed on the box from FRPP is M-9424-P46.

    BTW, my PI intake came drilled and tapped in that same spot off of ebay purchase, so it was no need for me to bring it in and have it done. :nice:

    Good luck on your install!

  11. Nope, no pics sorry. I kind of rigged it up one afternoon, and I'm fixing to redo it cause it has leaked a very small amount of coolant. I just drilled a hole in the top, then JB-welded a brass fitting for the sending unit into the hole, then screwed the sending unit into the fitting.
  12. Can you not take the aluminum cross over from a NPI intake and put it on the PI intake?
  13. and why do you have to cange water pump o-ring? and where does the water pump nipple go? and the heater tube? thanks
  14. PIX would be good too...... if you guys have them
  15. From what I've read, yes the crossovers are the same, minus the second factory drilled location for the ECT sensor. I almost bought a PI intake from a guy who said he swapped the crossover from his NPI intake to the PI one that he was selling. So take that FWIW.
  16. Well, it would be kinda of stupid not to change the o-ring. For one reason, you're going to have to remove the waterpump if you change over to the new style nipple, so you might as well change it while it's easy to get to; second, the factory o-ring has several thousand miles on it more than likely; and third, a new o-ring is pretty dang cheap. I myself bought an entire new waterpump, since it was only about $40 and I figured it was a pretty good investment for a car with nearly 100k miles on it.

    You have to remove the water pump to get access to change the nipple. It goes into the block. The heater tube runs through the valley of the block, right under the intake manifold. It connects to the nipple.
  17. after the heater tube runs through the valley where does it go?
  18. o and when you go a new water pump did you get one for a 96-98 or a 99+?
  19. It bolts to the driver's side head. The tube supplies coolant to the heater core.

    I bought the water pump for my year car ('96).