People w/ GT40/Cobra/Explorer intakes please come in!!

I have a '93 Cobra lower and I'm gonna be pairing it with an Explorer upper. My question is about the lower and the egr passages. On top of the lower, where the runners from the upper and lower meet, in the middle is a hole (I'm assuming it's for EGR). But on the Explorer, there aren't previsions for this hole. So I'm thinking I have to block it off. Does anyone know what/how I should go about blocking it off? And is it an important part of the EGR whereas if I didn't have it, the EGR would function for crap?

Any input would be great. Thanks

CJ
 
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The hole is necessary for the EGR to function properly . If you plan on bipassing your EGR system then it wont be an issue . If you want to run your EGR you will need to get a new upper . Explorers used an external EGR system .
 
The early Explorers used an internal EGR just like the Cobra. My 96 model Explorer manifold has the internal EGR passages and a working EGR.
 
The hole in the lower doesn't need to be blocked off since the exhaust gases won't have anywhere to go anyway.

The EGR won't function like crap, it won't function at all. Zero, nada, zip. Unfortunately the computer won't know the EGR isn't functioning and will advance the timing at part throttle cruise causing a knock.
 
If you are intent on using the explorer upper that you have then you really need to have the care tuned to turn the EGR function off. Otherwise if you want a functional egr, which is a good thing, you need to get an earlier explorer upper with the provision for the internal EGR. I believe that it was in in mid or late 97 that they changed to the upper with no internal passage.

As Maryland Stang said if you put that upper on the computer will still think that you have a functional EGR and that can result in part throttle knock and detonation. The proper fix is an intake with internal EGR or a tune to eliminate the EGR in the computer and prevent any detonation issues.
 
:lol: :lol:

That would be me lol, it seems fine anyway. But I have so far turned off the egr with my Tweecer and seems the exact same. But if you unplug the harness from the egr won't it "turn it off" automatically since it won't have a signal going to the computer from it?


If you just unplug the harness you are more likely than not going to trip a CE light.

BTW I ran with no EGR on my 93 for a while and did suffer ill effects. I had a no EGR GT40, P heads and had to turn my timing way down and run 93 especially during the summer to keep it from pinging. And that only kept it from pinging enough for me to hear it. When I decided to put a nitrous system on it the GT40 had to go and my EGR had to return.
 
I'm running a non EGR explorer intake and i have also turned off the EGR function with my tweecer. No ill effects what so ever. If you are running a non EGR but still have the EGR hooked up it will just not function at all. I also dont believe any of this knock.detonation BS b/c i ran that setup without the EGR turned off in the tweecer for two years with 18° of timing year round with not a single ping and i got 25+ mpg on the highway.
 
I'm running a non EGR explorer intake and i have also turned off the EGR function with my tweecer. No ill effects what so ever. If you are running a non EGR but still have the EGR hooked up it will just not function at all. I also dont believe any of this knock.detonation BS b/c i ran that setup without the EGR turned off in the tweecer for two years with 18° of timing year round with not a single ping and i got 25+ mpg on the highway.


Some guys get lucky and run no EGR with no prob. I didn't so just because it didn't happen to you doesn't make it BS.
 
I'm running a non EGR explorer intake and i have also turned off the EGR function with my tweecer. No ill effects what so ever. If you are running a non EGR but still have the EGR hooked up it will just not function at all. I also dont believe any of this knock.detonation BS b/c i ran that setup without the EGR turned off in the tweecer for two years with 18° of timing year round with not a single ping and i got 25+ mpg on the highway.



Some guys get lucky. Some don't. What works for one, doesn't always work for others.



Same deal with quad shocks. Some insist you can take them off with no ill effects because they have done it, while some have massive wheel hop even with aftermarket control arms that is only cured by putting the quad shocks back on.


On paper, deleting the EGR without doing it properly (turning it off in EEC, tune, resistors added, etc) can make a car poorly. Some guys never have an issue at all with it however. :shrug:







I don't understand the influx of "delete my EGR" posts lately. Was there a memo going around that i missed about gaining massive HP by deleting this function? :shrug: I don't understand why people are so eager to ditch it. It does not rob HP, and it conserves some fuel during part throttle driving. Why the rush to ditch it?
 
Update...

started removing some stuff tonight... first problem, the throttle linkage. how do you get the two cables off? (car used to be an AOD, so i'm assuming one of them is the old TV cable, but I don't know which is which). There is one that is like spring loaded, and one that is not. I have removed the one that is spring loaded.

How do you disconnect the other one?
 
Another update... I had a brain fart and figured out the throttle...

next thing on my mind is... since i wanna keep this upper... i'm leanin towards just blocking off the egr passage in the lower. with that, i could do away with the egr vavle on the spacer, correct?

my question is, if i delete the egr valve and all... should i get a different spacer/delete panel? and, what do i do with the coolant lines running to the egr spacer?
 
GreatWhite said:
next thing on my mind is... since i wanna keep this upper... i'm leanin towards just blocking off the egr passage in the lower. with that, i could do away with the egr vavle on the spacer, correct?

my question is, if i delete the egr valve and all... should i get a different spacer/delete panel? and, what do i do with the coolant lines running to the egr spacer?

Yes, you can remove the EGR valve since exhaust won't be going through it anyway. There's a company or 2 that make EGR deletes. I think UPR has one. The coolant lines can be capped off at the heater pipe that runs across the top of the intake.

I just want to point out (again) that you don't need to block off the hole in the lower. Since the upper has no hole it will block off the hole in the lower for you.

Make note that when you remove the EGR valve your CE light will come on and stay on.
 
The hole in the lower doesn't need to be blocked off since the exhaust gases won't have anywhere to go anyway.

This might be true and it might not be true - depends on the upper casting. Some uppers are just solid where the lower has the EGR hole, and others are cast without material where that hole is so the exhaust gas would exit onto the bottom of the upper - it's sort of a "tunnel" through that section. If that is the case, you need to get a 7mm 08 mm freeze plug and tap it into the hole and hope it stays.
 
Another update... I had a brain fart and figured out the throttle...

next thing on my mind is... since i wanna keep this upper... i'm leanin towards just blocking off the egr passage in the lower. with that, i could do away with the egr vavle on the spacer, correct?

my question is, if i delete the egr valve and all... should i get a different spacer/delete panel? and, what do i do with the coolant lines running to the egr spacer?


There is an EGR delete plate somewhere. It's just a fancy chrome peice that blocks the ports. You should block the EGR ports down below where the heads meet the lower intake. Reason being the heat from the gases won't heat up the intake.

Do a search on EGR delete in the forums. Jrichter has some good diagrams and wiring instructions on how to fabricate up resistors and wiring so that the CEL won't come on and the computer will be somewhat happy.

You still should get a tune to fully remove the EGR from the EEC's fuel curves. You may get some detonation or run slightly lean at part throttle.
 
As someone already said, this intake does not have any material over the lower intake hole. So I do need to cap that with something--freeze plug or whatever? And I should block off the holes right by the heads also?

I guess I'll be getting and EGR delete plate soon too, might as well get a t-body while im at it. haha

more reason to upgrade, thanks alot for the help guys