Electrical Pinout Test Blues And Tips For Noobs

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by evolucion311, Jul 23, 2014.

  1. First, let me say thanks for WMBurns for all he does for the community.

    This post is a warning/heads up for new guys running pinout tests on their PCM/ECM.

    See those three connectors (2 gray, 1 black) above of the PCM? Yeah, they need to be plugged in to each other when the factory manual says "REMOVE PCM." OK, you remove your PCM and then don't reconnect those 3? You will not be able to successfully run your pinout tests if you don't.

    Just a lesson learned on my part. Hopefully this will help someone.

    I just got done determining my PCM was fried and my FPDM was ok. I was upgrading my alternator wire to a 4AWG and fried the computer by connecting the negative terminal and THEN reconnecting the positive terminal. I knew better and just wasn't thinking.

    Attached Files:

  2. Well crap now my ABS light is on.
  3. If you do PCM work and then get both ABS and SES lights, make sure to check the 3 wiring harness connectors by the PCM because they have retaining clips that don't seat quite as well after they have been removed a few times. One of mine wiggled loose while driving and threw an ABS light for C1165 and P1451.

    I was able to figure out the problem after about 20 minutes of troubleshooting using the pinout tests for C1165 from the service manual. I had <5 ohms on one of the wires going to the right rear ABS sensor connector but an open circuit on the other. By following the wiring diagram I looked next at the connections to the PCM harnesses. Problem fixed.