Please Help,5.0 Ho Swap Into F150

Those e6se heads arent really worth messing with. They came on the 86 mustang and some year lincolns and thunderbirds. The chambers are shaped different. They don't flow as well as the e7 heads.
 
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Just rebuild it with low end torque in mind for that truck, even if it is kinda pink.
I still have the 90 gt ho motor that ran when it was pulled. But now that i got the info that my truck motor is a ho. I may build a 306 using that bottom end and my truck heads. My bottom end in truck motor is most likely in really ruff shape im holding 5 lbs oil pressure at best when its warm. Ive had three gauges on it so im pretty sure its right
 
I still have the 90 gt ho motor that ran when it was pulled. But now that i got the info that my truck motor is a ho. I may build a 306 using that bottom end and my truck heads. My bottom end in truck motor is most likely in really ruff shape im holding 5 lbs oil pressure at best when its warm. Ive had three gauges on it so im pretty sure its right
Is ghere any reason that block isnt a good one to make a 306 out of?
 
roller block, one piece rear seal and the cylinders are not out of wack, I'd say go with it, shoot for 9.5 compression or a little higher if going with aluminum heads, long tube headers and the truck intake and you should have a pretty good stump puller, check out a cam that is torque oriented, I'm not sure that 'truck' heads are any different that 'car' heads, the better iron head is the explorer gt40 but are not cost effective to rebuild compared to the aluminum heads available today, depends on what you got already and what your goal is.
this is just my opinion and probably not based on any factual experience.
 
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roller block, one piece rear seal and the cylinders are not out of wack, I'd say go with it, shoot for 9.5 compression or a little higher if going with aluminum heads, long tube headers and the truck intake and you should have a pretty good stump puller, check out a cam that is torque oriented, I'm not sure that 'truck' heads are any different that 'car' heads, the better iron head is the explorer gt40 but are not cost effective to rebuild compared to the aluminum heads available today, depends on what you got already and what your goal is.
this is just my opinion and probably not based on any factual experience.
Thank you. And im probably going to use the 90 ho motor until i build a 306 or bigger out of that non ho motor.My truck does not shift at 2000rpm as someone tried to say earlier. It has a stage three trany thats hard on parts because it will bang gears very hard. But ive learned to drive it so it dont unless i want it too. Average shift rpm is around 3000. But everyone seemed to think it was a one ton pulling a fifth wheel.lol i kinda want to do it just to prove its a good swap. Ive talked to a bunch of guys that claim they did it and it worked better than they even they thought the longer intake runners and probably the computer all seem to add some extra low end. But ill keep you posted on what i do. And how it goes. Im not afraid to admit when im wrong. so i may be draging my tail but i will tell the truth as always. plus to help others. Hope to throw mud all over them guys that were so negitive some day. Grumpy150 peace out. I forgot to ask what brand of aluminum heads would you buy if you were trying to stay on a cheap budget and do they require extra stuff?
 
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Mustang360 and hotrod have several sbf aluminum head dyno comparisons, or check out some truck magazine websites for low rpm torque heads, I think it will be more in the cam profile and intake runner length is where you get your low end torque numbers.
 
Mustang360 and hotrod have several sbf aluminum head dyno comparisons, or check out some truck magazine websites for low rpm torque heads, I think it will be more in the cam profile and intake runner length is where you get your low end torque numbers.
Ya id agree with both. Still say the numbers on that dyno sheet proved the truck motor made less torque but no one ever seems to see it that way or i should say not many. But ive had torque cams in truck motors they run like a desel and seem like there made for pulling houses. In michigan my rig sees some freeway and up north were i live the limit is 75 everyone drives 85 i need a all around motor not a house puller And that kind of stuff lets the chevy guys run right buy us while are motor is maxed out at 2500 rpms and theres makes power to 6500. (Wow that sounds like a mustang motor). But ive been wrong before and im sure ill be wrong again. And of coarsd ill call comp cams for advice and a bumb stick might get changed. You are a very cool guy for all the help. And thanks for not saying just google it or its on hot rods site. After all i came here for advice and i got a lotbof good stuff most from you. Thanks again
 
Most of what I know I learned from the members here so I sound smarter than I really am, that said, if thats what you want, a driver that keeps up with the traffic not just a truck motor then look at what was built for the lighting truck with the 5.0 in it, low buck options are gt40 iron heads or aluminum for a few bucks more, explorer intake and get a cam recommendation from ed curtis.
 
Cruising at 85mph definitely means you need some up stairs room. Guess as horsepower fires up so does torque.... Its just where in the power band.
 
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Most of what I know I learned from the members here so I sound smarter than I really am, that said, if thats what you want, a driver that keeps up with the traffic not just a truck motor then look at what was built for the lighting truck with the 5.0 in it, low buck options are gt40 iron heads or aluminum for a few bucks more, explorer intake and get a cam recommendation from ed curtis.
Your probably going to get a good chuckle out of this but who is ed curtis. Where doni find him?. Also my truck just sees the freeway but that means i need it to do everything not just pull a race car or camper.