Please help me with my 1995 Mustang GT 5.0

Babydriver13

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Jan 23, 2019
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If someone can please help me with my 1995 mustang gt 5.0. I bought this car for 800 bucks hoping to fix it up. The speedometer and odometer both do not work, so i replaced the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and it did nothing, i even checked the wiring and it looked fine. Also if i am in neutral and i rev the car above 3000 rpms, the whole front of the car shakes, but i would also like to say i think it is straight piped because it is extremely loud outside the exhaust, and it also backfires if you rev it to 6000 rpms. So i don't know what that could be, if you could please let me know or give me some hints or stuff to check i would really appreciate it.
 
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02 281 GT

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If the whole front of the car is shaking when you rev the motor, check to see if your motor mounts are attached to the engine block or if they're just completely trashed.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I would add that a complete engine checkup would be in order, compression check first (you didn't mention miles) and if that checks out then a good tune up would be my next step.
 

jozsefsz

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Also check that your harmonic balancer is solid. It's the part that holds the pulley to the crankshaft at the front lower center of the engine. You'll have to crawl under to take a look. Those often shift (the rubber which holds the balancer together gets old and brittle) and can cause vibrations. If it looks wrong, and there's rubber hanging out, it's likely bad.
 

02 281 GT

Agreed...My wife has great Boobs
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Do you know why my speedometer and odometer are not working? even though i replaced the vehicle speed sensor.
Either there is a problem with the fuse for the cluster (unlikely since the tach works), there is a problem with the speedometer gear in the transmission (does the car have rear gears other than stock?), or there is a wiring issue to the speedometer.
 

hrspwrjunkie

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There isn't a speedometer cable in the '94 and later cars, it's all electrical. If I remember the system correctly, the speedometer and odometer not working may have eight potential culprits (some of which have already been mentioned – and I may have missed something, as well):
  1. Fuse is no good/missing — that will lead to the complete instrument cluster being out, however.
  2. Speed sensor is bad/not there/not attached correctly to the transmission or even seized.
  3. Gear stripped in the transmission, slid down the output shaft, or spinning around the shaft (it can happen).
  4. Gear on the speed sensor stripped/missing/spinning around the sensor input shaft.
  5. Gear clip missing on the speed sensor gear.
  6. Wiring disconnected/severed/corroded anywhere in the system from the speed sensor to the gauge cluster.
  7. Computer is bad – this is highly unlikely, the repair industry is notorious for computer replacements when the computer is fine, not that they don't ever fail, but it's rare.
  8. Speedometer no good or electrical connection somewhere within the gauge cluster housing no good.
As for your NVH problem (noise/vibration/harshness) that can really be a lot of things. Based on the fact that it occurs in neutral without the engagement of the drivetrain, the most obvious and easiest to get at — but in no way limited to — are the crankshaft damper and/or engine mounts as stated above. Other obvious potential culprits are the flywheel/friction plate/clutch/pilot bearing/transmission input shaft assembly and/or internal engine components/balance. There are also less obvious issues to consider, but, chasing NVH issues are a special kind of infuriating and often not easy to find and can easily be expensive to resolve.
 
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Padlock

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Hi jozsefsz, I have a question auto zone sells Dorman part #800-130 and #800-131 for 95mustang gt 5.0 would these fit the one end of -6 high pressure fuel lines , if so what fittings would work on the other end of hose lines. Thanks for your help in this matter.
 

jozsefsz

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hi @Padlock you might wish to create your own new thread with this question, you'll likely get more views.
The Dorman parts you mention look correct for our cars (11mm & 14mm spring-lock ends) though the barbed fittings aren't really designed for AN type lines. Typically barbed fittings are used with the nylon type fuel lines (or even rubber with appropriate (not standard worm-drive) fuel hose clamps).

The other problem I see is that that the barbed fittings on both of these are 5/16, and the supply and return hoses are different sizes at the firewall. So you'll have some problems mating those together at the other end.

You may be better of doing things the more 'standard' way: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/1995-gt-rubber-fuel-lines.877769/
When it comes to fuel hoses in the engine bay, I don't tend to want to experiment. :)
 
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Padlock

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Hi, I talked to cliff at classic tube I asked if they could make itt automotive 4k07 -6 an high pressure fuel lines that are in my 95 stang gt. Told me to send them along with the end connections so I saw auto zone had Dorman part #800-130 #800131 with barbed ends may not be able to attach to an hoses? Also can the Russell part #640863- 641303 640903 640873 640853 can they be attached to the original 95gt looks like hard plastic fuel lines? Thanks for your feed back.
 

Padlock

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Mar 15, 2019
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Hi all, bought these fittings from summit racing 640863-641303-640903-640873-640853 I called Fragola they said they would make up ptfe -6 AN lines #375030-30”” long but I need to go through summit. Will these fittings work on these hoses, I cannot find any auto repair shop in st Augustine to install the hoses and fittings when I have them all ,any idea who could do the job correctly I am not an auto mechanic
Thanks padlock
 
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