Pop through intake / miss at cruising speed.

BK_CAULEY

it's built for speed not longevity, woman
Dec 26, 2006
0
10
49
Thomasville, ga
Ok i know that indicates a lean condition, but ive pretty much covered everything except the barometric air pressure sensor. and the only reason i havent tested it is because there isnt a test for it on all data, so maybe someone can chime in on it.

and using THIS thread, i have covered everything it lists.

Here is a little more detailed list of events im experiencing. When i first start it up it idles fine. When i go to take off if its cold it bucks/skips/ pops through the intake. Once it warms up it will not do it taking off anymore. It ALWAYS does it when im cruising at 60/ 1800 rpm. its very faint but you can feel it and its audible.

Ive ran a balance test and it came back good. I installed a fuel pump last month and checked my pressure over the weekend and thats good. check voltage/grounds on all sensor except baro.

The only thing i can see is maybe a valve issue (hope not) or maybe my egr sticking. i removed the egr solenoid and carb cleaned it real good, didnt change anything. I guess next step is compression check. If anyone has ANY other ideas please let me know.
 
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How old is the motor? Is there a chance that the timing chain is worn?

Have you replaced the Cap, Rotor, and wires? Even if they're pretty new? I ask this because I once installed a brand new set of FMS wires and pulled my hair out a month later trying to pin down a similar problem.

Spray down the intake with ether? Find anything?
 
Sprayed it with starting fluid yesterday to check for vaccum leaks. good on that. msd wires/cap/rotor installed last year with maybe 300 miles on them. timing chain has same mileage.

you wouldnt happen to know what voltage output the BARO sends would you?
 
Not off the top of my head, no. If someone doesn't chime in with that info, I'll go out and pull a meter reading for you though.

If you have another set of wires, cap, and rotor though... swap them in to see if anything changes. All it takes is a small break in a wire to cause silly stuff to happen. That set of wires that I had, had maybe 50 miles on them before I swapped them out as the culprit.
 
Did you get any codes?

Code 22 or 126 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range. The MAP or BARO sensor is pretty much the same sensor for both Mass Air & Speed Density cars. The main difference is where it is connected. Mass Air cars vent it to the atmosphere, while Speed Density cars connect it to the intake manifold vacuum. Its purpose is to help set a baseline for the air/fuel mixture by sensing changes in barometric pressure. The MAP or BAP sensor puts out a 5 volt square wave that changes frequency with variations in atmospheric pressure. The base is 154 HZ at 29.92" of mercury - dry sunny day at sea level, about 68-72 degrees. You need an oscilloscope or frequency meter to measure it. There a very few DVM with a price tag under $40 that will measure frequency, but there are some out there.

The MAP/BARO sensor is mounted on the firewall behind the upper manifold on 86-93 Mustangs.

Baro or MAP test using frequency meter - run the test key on engine off. The noise from the ignition system will likely upset the frequency meter. I used a 10 x oscilloscope probe connected from the frequency meter to the MAP/BAP to reduce the jitter in the meter's readout.

If it is defective, your air/fuel ratio will be off and the car’s performance & emissions will suffer

Some basic checks you can make to be sure that the sensor is getting power & ground:
Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter.
Check the resistance between the black/white wire on the MAP/BARO sensor and then the black/white wire on the EGR and the same wire on the TPS. It should be less than 1 ohm. Next check the resistance between the black/white wire and the negative battery cable. It should be less than 1.5 ohm.

The following power on check requires you to turn the ignition switch to the Run position.
Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or EGR sensors. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.

Do you have an aftermarket Cold Air Induction kit?
 
I pulled an evap code in the KOER test and got no codes on KOEO. just finished my compression test and all cylinders are good. and yes i do have an aftermarket cold air intake.

Try rotating the MAF assembly. Clocking the MAF can move it from a turbulent air stream in to a smoother one which helps the MAF do a better job of measuring the airflow.

If the air filter is in the engine compartment, that is a bad thing. The hot, turbulent air from the fan causes all sorts of problems with airflow through the MAF.
 
I have the same problem to a tee...may car is doing this also...I have no idea what else to do...Everything is new on the car....Maybe a defective MAP sensor..im thinking maybe a bad fuel injector...im lost:shrug: I even have the stock Air filter assy my car is an 87 GT with speed density....