Port Job W/ 170s Or 190s

[2000xp8]

I'd just use the 170's.
If you need them ported for a race block stroker in the future you can send them to TEA to have cnc ported.
With a supercharger the 170s will flow enough to split the block.
42lb injectors are fine, I wouldn't go past that number, it will probably keep it simplest with the meter.
The injector sizing chart doesn't reflect the real world use, it's all theory and it's not correct.
And throw your jamex springs in the dumpster.
400 to 500rwhp (i'm with hoyster, keep it in the low 400's) is a lot on a crap suspension I hope you are taking care of the suspension and the brakes.

 

[Noobz347]

....



What crank and what blower are we using on this mileage+ motor? Moreover, what's the pulley combo for the boost we think we'll be making on this blower?

I haven't seen one in a while but I recall many a cast cranks snapped, producing this kind of power through a cranked down blower belt.

 

[Reddevil91]

I'd just use the 170's.
If you need them ported for a race block stroker in the future you can send them to TEA to have cnc ported.
With a supercharger the 170s will flow enough to split the block.
42lb injectors are fine, I wouldn't go past that number, it will probably keep it simplest with the meter.
The injector sizing chart doesn't reflect the real world use, it's all theory and it's not correct.
And throw your jamex springs in the dumpster.
400 to 500rwhp (i'm with hoyster, keep it in the low 400's) is a lot on a crap suspension I hope you are taking care of the suspension and the brakes.

Ha ha those Jamex springs getting dogged on!! Yes that is in the plan in regards to brakes, I want to swap to 5 lug, front and rear discs. I do eventually want to swap to MM all around suspension, but for now I just installed UPR LCAs, gonna buy the MM subframes and have those welded in. So the reason i was thinking about 190s was bc I was possibly planning on stroking to 331 or 347. Do you think that if i happened to not go that route that the 190s would be to much for the set up I was talking about?

 

[Reddevil91]

....



What crank and what blower are we using on this mileage+ motor? Moreover, what's the pulley combo for the boost we think we'll be making on this blower?

I haven't seen one in a while but I recall many a cast cranks snapped, producing this kind of power through a cranked down blower belt.

Well I was planning on just using my stock crank, unless of course I stroked the motor. Planning on using the V3 si, and that pulley combo is something I was planning on asking, bc I know I can change pulleys to get more boost, but not sure what I need. Currently I’m running under drive pulleys bc that was the way to go back in highschool, not sure if I would need to change this out? Also would it be wise to upgrade my harmonic balancer?

 

[Noobz347]

I'm not a big fan of boring and stroking stock blocks for blowers.


What's your end game? What do you want from the car?

 

[Noobz347]

I would probably do a near stock rebuild with upgraded parts in anticipation of the blower.

As mentioned above, anywhere in 400 HP territory is a LOT of motor for a 3200 street car.

Make the motor solid. Tear it down and put it back together with new crap and ARP hardware. Upgrade the fuel system and come up with a method to tune it. Turn up the boost to 10 to 12 lbs and enjoy the hell out it while you're working on suspension and brakes (without wrapping around any solid objects).

 

[Reddevil91]

I'm not a big fan of boring and stroking stock blocks for blowers.


What's your end game? What do you want from the car?

Well I’d like 400-500hp, no track days really, just a fun weekend, car show car with some power. If I did go stroker I’d probably not stroke my actual motor, I’d end up going with a dart 347. But seems like going with what I originally planned, my Tubular GT40 with ported lower done by Tmoss, 47 or 60 LB inj with pro m 80, aero 340 fuel pump with aero fuel reg, 11r heads was gonna get 190s Incase I did upgrade to a 347 but don’t want to get them if they are overkill, v3, change my f cam to either tf stage 2, or possibly custom but not sure on that. Would swap out my current exhaust, debating long tubes or equal length with a not sure muffler yet, either keep h pipe or swap to x pipe depending on header choice of course. Currently got 3.73s, get a new radiator with the contour fans I got the link for, and a 3g alt.

 

[Noobz347]

Well I’d like 400-500hp, no track days really, just a fun weekend, car show car with some power. If I did go stroker I’d probably not stroke my actual motor, I’d end up going with a dart 347. But seems like going with what I originally planned, my Tubular GT40 with ported lower done by Tmoss, 47 or 60 LB inj with pro m 80, aero 340 fuel pump with aero fuel reg, 11r heads was gonna get 190s Incase I did upgrade to a 347 but don’t want to get them if they are overkill, v3, change my f cam to either tf stage 2, or possibly custom but not sure on that. Would swap out my current exhaust, debating long tubes or equal length with a not sure muffler yet, either keep h pipe or swap to x pipe depending on header choice of course. Currently got 3.73s, get a new radiator with the contour fans I got the link for, and a 3g alt.

This is all very nice (not being facetious) but you have many parts here that a lot above what is necessary to split the stock block (overkill).

Let me pose this possibility:

You have a working motor now. It runs. Why not begin by purchasing a $2000 Dart Sportsman and begin planning for its prep? I'm someone who dislikes spending money multiple times.

While you're getting the Sportsman ready, you can look and see which head and cam will go best with the new short block.

It looks to me like you have some very high expectation of "Holy Hell" HP. May as well begin from the bottom.

I can tell you that I have roughly $10k into my DART long block and have lost track of what I have into the blower etc.

 

[EDC]

The foundation of any STOUT build is the block. Ya don't build a house on sand for a reason.

 

[2000xp8]

I reread this entire thread.
Here's my opinion, don't buy anything yet.
These things are too expensive to be indecisive about.

You have to layout a budget, plan, goals and time frame.
You need to understand that even at 300rwhp the suspension and chassis is crap and the trans very well could break.
When you fix those your rear will probably spin one tire and then that needs to be fixed. Might as well go 5 lug and big brakes in the front while you are at it.
There is so much more to one of these cars than just power.

Skipping right to 400 to 500 hp will just leave you with a broken money pit that you may not be able to afford to fix.
A good trans is $3500, you have to be ready at a moments notice to drop that kind of cash.

I'm not sure I've ever seen anyone effectively transition to a future setup without blowing a ton of money.
In theory it works, in practice it doesn't.

 

[Reddevil91]

I reread this entire thread.
Here's my opinion, don't buy anything yet.
These things are too expensive to be indecisive about.

You have to layout a budget, plan, goals and time frame.
You need to understand that even at 300rwhp the suspension and chassis is crap and the trans very well could break.
When you fix those your rear will probably spin one tire and then that needs to be fixed. Might as well go 5 lug and big brakes in the front while you are at it.
There is so much more to one of these cars than just power.

Skipping right to 400 to 500 hp will just leave you with a broken money pit that you may not be able to afford to fix.
A good trans is $3500, you have to be ready at a moments notice to drop that kind of cash.

I'm not sure I've ever seen anyone effectively transition to a future setup without blowing a ton of money.
In theory it works, in practice it doesn't.

So as far as my trans goes I know I have a tremec in there but trying to remeber if it was the TKO which I think it is, or the 3550. Now I know that’s an older one model wise but are still good transmissions correct. I know newer models from tremec are graded to I believe 600ft/lbs torque. So I’m guessing mine is probably less than that. Brakes yes I want to upgrade full 5 lug discs all around. Haven’t delved into the 5lug swap thread yet to see what all I would need to hunt for to get the axles, discs etc, or just get an SVE full kit which I know is probably considered cheap stuff but has to be better than my current stock set up. I’m just wondering how much savings is there from buying a kit vs piecing together all the little parts and pieces.

 

[2000xp8]

The 3550 should be good for at least a nice h/c/I setup.

I'd do your suspension, brakes and wheels first and put the engine on the back burner.
There is definitely money to be saved in piecing it together, but it all depends on the deals you find.
The 94/95 spindles will be the most important piece to find.

 

[Reddevil91]

The 3550 should be good for at least a nice h/c/I setup.

I'd do your suspension, brakes and wheels first and put the engine on the back burner.
There is definitely money to be saved in piecing it together, but it all depends on the deals you find.
The 94/95 spindles will be the most important piece to find.

The 94/95 spindles being front and rear? Does it matter if it’s a gt/ cobra etc

 

[Reddevil91]

The 3550 should be good for at least a nice h/c/I setup.

I'd do your suspension, brakes and wheels first and put the engine on the back burner.
There is definitely money to be saved in piecing it together, but it all depends on the deals you find.
The 94/95 spindles will be the most important piece to find.

I’ll have to eat under the car and see if I can see the serial number on the transmission

 

[Reddevil91]

I’ll have to eat under the car and see if I can see the serial number on the transmission

Ha oops not eat but get

 

[Reddevil91]

This is all very nice (not being facetious) but you have many parts here that a lot above what is necessary to split the stock block (overkill).

Let me pose this possibility:

You have a working motor now. It runs. Why not begin by purchasing a $2000 Dart Sportsman and begin planning for its prep? I'm someone who dislikes spending money multiple times.

While you're getting the Sportsman ready, you can look and see which head and cam will go best with the new short block.

It looks to me like you have some very high expectation of "Holy Hell" HP. May as well begin from the bottom.

I can tell you that I have roughly $10k into my DART long block and have lost track of what I have into the blower etc.

Ha ha not necessarily holy hell hp but I want power. I’ve had this car since highschool which was a replacement for the one I wrecked, not my fault btw. Anyways cammed it, exhaust, gears, pulleys all the this is gonna make me run fast stuff when you were a kid. Then I garaged it shortly after graduation and always said I’m gonna build this motor, but undergrad, then grad school happened and well here we are. Now I got money to play. I guess the 347 idea is just something that has always seemed cool, but I also went through the I’m going to slap a coyote in here but that got put on the back burner. So all that list I said was my idea for my stock block which I know could eventually split it bc yes it’s some power, and the car has 150k currently. So I started thinking hmm well I don’t want to get to crazy and blow my motor so let’s keep it in the under 500 zone, play with it see how i like it and how things hold up. It’s not a race car, I’d say no track days. So do I need to go stroker probably not but it’s more a fun factor to have it, build it and say I got a 347. So I completely see your point on just building it up and then swapping motors. Instead of piecing together then removing and swapping over to a different motor. I just have that back burning urge to finally have some added power instead of my measly possibly 250 hp!!! I looked up that sportsman but if I did swap I’d probably aim for this guy, would you say this would be a good start?

 

[Noobz347]

would you say this would be a good start?

Yep.

You can even start with a bare block and go through the entire process if you like.


You have any good machine shop / engine builders near you?

 

[Reddevil91]

Yep.

You can even start with a bare block and go through the entire process if you like.


You have any good machine shop / engine builders near you?

Don’t know honestly. I live in Austin, tx and haven’t really found anything shop wise