Hello! This is my first post on StangNet. I've done plenty of lurking and searching to find lots of helpful information, this place is amazing! Before someone posts "Search it.", I have. Please read on. My car (1989 5.0 LX) has been having lots and lots of electrical issues. I've come to what I thought was the end of all my electrical work when I finally put in a new starter, as my stock one crapped out. I go to start the car, aaanndd...nothing. I didn't have spark anymore. My ignition switch (electrical) is new, the ignition coil is new, my starter solenoid is new, my distributer is new, my starter cable is new (the old was was corroded to all hell, welcome to the Midwest), and both my positive and negative battery cables are new. I replaced the starter cable with 6 gauge marine grade cable and my battery wires with 4 gauge marine grade wire. I have fuel and adequate fuel pressure (around 35-40 psi) while cranking and my starter is working wonderfully, I upgraded to a high torque starter. To begin diagnosing, I looked to see if my fuel injectors were receiving power and a signal from the distributer. All injectors had power, but no signal. I figured it could be my PIP sensor. Nope, I used a test light to probe the PIP wire coming out of the TFI module plug and it flashed as it should while cranking. Same for the SPOUT wire. I tested all of the wires coming out of the TFI module matter of fact. The dark blue wire (PIP) flashed as it should, the yellow/green wire (SPOUT) flashed as it should, both the red/blue wire and the red/green wire have power in either run or crank (accordingly), the dark green/yellow wire (IDM) had power coming out of it and was sending a signal, and the black/orange wire (IGN) is/has a good ground. I'm feeling this issue may be my EEC now. I did some testing with the EEC connector NOT connected to the EEC as it was easier to access the specific wires I wanted to test this way. All testing of the wires was done with the key in RUN. Pin 56 (PIP) was receiving a signal as it should be while cranking, Pin 36 (SPOUT) was receiving a signal as it should be while cranking, Pin 4 (IDM) was receiving power/signal, and Pin 16 (IGN Ground) is good. I also tested pin 20 (Case ground), pin 49 (HEGO ground), pin 40 (PWR ground), pin 60 (PWR ground), pin 22 (fuel pump), pin 37 (VPWR), pin 57 (VPWR), and pin 1 (KAPWR). Pin 20 - GOOD Pin 49 - GOOD Pin 40 & 60 - GOOD Pin 22 - DEAD. I've ran my own power wires to my fuel pump (relayed, fused, and switched of course) and I have had the car run with this setup before. I don't see this as being an issue. I had issues with my FP wiring in the past and decided to do this for simplicity. Pin 37 & 57 - DEAD Pin 1 - DEAD I've removed my EEC to inspect it for damage. It smells fine (no burning scent) and I've even taken it apart to inspect the circuit board. I'm not a computer repairman, but it looked OK from what I could tell. I honestly wouldn't know though. Do you think my EEC is dead or do I have more wiring issues? I'm frustrated and stumped. The car was running the other day and as soon as I finalized my wiring and put in a new starter the car decides to do this. I'm not wanting to invest into another EEC or looking to pay to have my EEC repaired until I KNOW it's dead. I know this is quite a lengthy post, but I want to be as descriptive as possible for anyone that may be able to give a knowledgeable opinion on this. THANK YOU for reading! Any and all replies are appreciated!