Power steering pump replacement

Gunny87

Active Member
Nov 29, 2015
50
7
28
Murray Utah
87 GT with the usual PS pump wine and now starting to get hard to turn the wheel when at a stop and soon I'll be installing new wider 255/45 R 17 summer tires all the way around which will add even more strain on the pump so I want to replace it with a new-rebuilt one so my question is what is the best way to go, is there an upgraded pump that's worth the cost or do I just go to my local auto parts store and get a $60-70 remand pump?
 
Last edited:
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Power steering repair & time estimate:
Power steering system diagram:
attachments58118


Do not attempt to do this job without good jackstands.

The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.
attachment.php


Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.
attachments58118

You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

Time to do the job:
It takes 20 minutes to get the car up on jackstands.
It takes 20 minutes to disconnect the steering joint (rag joint). WD40 is your friend, so squirt the 2 rag joint coupler bolts with plenty of it. Do not attempt to disconnect the rag joint from the rack by removing the clamp joint bolt. It is hard to get apart and hard to align and put back together.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the two mount bolts that secure the steering rack to the k member.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the front rubber bushings and washers from the rack to K member mount so that you can slide the rack forward and then down.
You do not need to disconnect the rack from the tie rod ends, or remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles.

It takes 5 minutes per hydraulic line to disconnect them from the rack. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

Total disassembly time roughly 1 1/2 hour, allowing time for some of the bolts to be rusty or hard to turn...

Figure a little more to reinstall and you have 2 3/4 to 3 hours total time. It you have an impact wrench, subtract 20-30 minutes from the total time

Power steering repair & time estimate:
Power steering system diagram:


attachment.php


Do not attempt to do this job without good jackstands.

The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.
attachment.php


Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.
attachments58118

You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

Time to do the job:
It takes 20 minutes to get the car up on jackstands.
It takes 20 minutes to disconnect the steering joint (rag joint). WD40 is your friend, so squirt the 2 rag joint coupler bolts with plenty of it. Do not attempt to disconnect the rag joint from the rack by removing the clamp joint bolt. It is hard to get apart and hard to align and put back together.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the two mount bolts that secure the steering rack to the k member.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the front rubber bushings and washers from the rack to K member mount so that you can slide the rack forward and then down.
You do not need to disconnect the rack from the tie rod ends, or remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles.

It takes 5 minutes per hydraulic line to disconnect them from the rack. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

Total disassembly time roughly 1 1/2 hour, allowing time for some of the bolts to be rusty or hard to turn...

Figure a little more to reinstall and you have 2 3/4 to 3 hours total time. It you have an impact wrench, subtract 20-30 minutes from the total time


Do not attempt to do this job without good jackstands.

The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.
attachment.php


Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.
attachments58118

You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

Time to do the job:
It takes 20 minutes to get the car up on jackstands.
It takes 20 minutes to disconnect the steering joint (rag joint). WD40 is your friend, so squirt the 2 rag joint coupler bolts with plenty of it. Do not attempt to disconnect the rag joint from the rack by removing the clamp joint bolt. It is hard to get apart and hard to align and put back together.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the two mount bolts that secure the steering rack to the k member.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the front rubber bushings and washers from the rack to K member mount so that you can slide the rack forward and then down.
You do not need to disconnect the rack from the tie rod ends, or remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles.

It takes 5 minutes per hydraulic line to disconnect them from the rack. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

Total disassembly time roughly 1 1/2 hour, allowing time for some of the bolts to be rusty or hard to turn...

Figure a little more to reinstall and you have 2 3/4 to 3 hours total time. It you have an impact wrench, subtract 20-30 minutes from the total time
 
Power steering repair & time estimate:

Power steering system diagram:

58118.gif


Do not attempt to do this job without good jackstands.

The return hoses are all low pressure and are most commonly secured to the pump and associated plumbing with worm gear hose clamps. After a while they will frequently soften up at the end where they are clamped, and should be replaced. The auto parts store will sell you hose by the foot and it takes about 3 feet or less, depending if you have the fluid cooler in the low pressure side of the line.

Each hose uses an O ring on each end to seal them. The hoses will swivel when they are installed and tightened into place. That is why there are O rings on the fittings. The O ring is the part that actually makes the pressure seal. If you slide the nut all the way back as far as it will go, you will see the O ring and the groove cut into the center section of the fitting.

50550



Sometimes you will get some white Teflon rings with the pump or rack. The rings go on the threaded part of the fitting to reduce or prevent small leaks. They are not meant to seal the pressure part of the line or substitute for the rubber O ring. Heat the white Teflon seals in hot water and they will be easier to install. You can install the fittings without them and not have any leaks if the O rings seal good.

You may find it is easier to drop the rack down to get to the hose fittings. The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

Time to do the job:
It takes 20 minutes to get the car up on jackstands.
It takes 20 minutes to disconnect the steering joint (rag joint). WD40 is your friend, so squirt the 2 rag joint coupler bolts with plenty of it. Do not attempt to disconnect the rag joint from the rack by removing the clamp joint bolt. It is hard to get apart and hard to align and put back together.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the two mount bolts that secure the steering rack to the k member.

It takes 10 minutes to remove the front rubber bushings and washers from the rack to K member mount so that you can slide the rack forward and then down.
You do not need to disconnect the rack from the tie rod ends, or remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles.

It takes 5 minutes per hydraulic line to disconnect them from the rack. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines.

Total disassembly time roughly 1 1/2 hour, allowing time for some of the bolts to be rusty or hard to turn...

Figure a little more to reinstall and you have 2 3/4 to 3 hours total time. It you have an impact wrench, subtract 20-30 minutes from the total time
 

Attachments

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    58118.gif
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The reman ones are hit or miss. When I redid my entire steering system, I replaced everything but the pump. Doing a total system flush and then a slow purge of air when refilling the system made the pump the quietest it's ever been. I trust me 30 year old original pump more than a parts store reman
 
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Thanks for the replies
so a bit more info on where I am on this so far I've installed all new lines and flushed the system, replaced all bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and struts, nothing leaks, but as I said the pump wines, puts a heavy load on the engine when turning the wheels at a stop and sometimes feels a bit notchie , so I'm thinking a new pump would possible fix all this however I've not seen any really good reviews on any of the pumps online (like LMR, CJ's and alike) and couldn't find a good upgrade mentioned in any google searches so thought I'd ask the experts here, again thanks.
suppose I'll give a remand one from O'Reilly's a shot