Power Stop Brake Conversion + Bleeding

Al this done on my 97 GT which was stored for most of the past 20 years. It has 38K miles.. I changed the brake lines to Russell SS braided types. The stock quadra shocks were replaced with new Ford shocks. The stock shocks were replaced with Koni non- adjustable units. A new KC1300 Power Stop kit replaced the stock brakes. The calipers are red powder coated. The rotors are drilled and slotted.

I've notified the Power Stop company about the following error. The areas on the anchor plates for both front and rear calipers that the pads fit into must not be painted. Especially the rear pads because of the anti - rattle spring clips that are fitted onto the ends of the pads. The ends of the front pads and the clips on the rear pads must have grease applied before installing. I had to file and sand away the paint on the anchor plates before I could install the pads.

Other than the above point the Power Stop company does a quality job rebuilding the stock calipers (new pistons, seals, and bolts). The rotors are well made. (I compared them to the stock units).

I used a Mity-Vac pump to bleed. But before that step I fitted a leak tube onto each bleeder valve and opened each valve one at a time and pumped the brake petal refilling the master cylinder each time. This step filled the new brake lines and the brake cylinders. Then I vacuum bled the brake system.

My 20 year old GT stops on a dime now. It also rides very solid now.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


BTW,,, Use a 8 -10 inch channel lock to compress the emergency brake lever on the first rear brake. Use a medium sized screw driver to pry the cable from the lever. On the other brake just pull the cable about an inch to remove it from the lever. Just reverse all this when installing the new units.