Power up a 351W, what do I need

[stang-69]

Hi!
Got some questions about thr rngine I'm about to build, the target is 350- 400 HP.
This is what I have
Eng.block 351W -71
Eagle rods H-style C-C 5.596, according to manufacturer they are good for 750 HP
KB pistons flat top (KB-151 in the summit catalog)
Melling High-volume oil pump
Holley blue electric fuelpump

I need help with deciding, I´m about this for some time now.
- What cam? I would like to have a roller but I don´t know if its possible to convert nonroller 351W to roller.

-Heads, I do have a pair of -69 heads, they have been milled but the guy i got them from doesn´t know how much has been taken off them, and yes, I´m aware that they won´t do the job for me.

Carb ?? preferably Holley because they are easyest for me to come around

Rockers - I´m getting a set of rollers

Will I have to change torque-cpnverter on the C4 autotrans, how much power can a stock with shiftkit C4 handle?

All ideas are welcome ...

 

[danny clemens]

It looks like you have most of it figured out. You can convert a non roller block to a roller but it's expensive and won't really give you much bang for the buck. I'd suggest a set of AFR 185 heads, a good intake/carb and a set of headers. There's a lot of little things that you should buy that will add up too. Good luck.

 

[grego37]

good topic

 

[86bluecobra]

I think your going to have to run a set of AFR 185's or Vic Jr's would also be nice for the windsor. I would like to have the Vic Jr intake on my 351w and thats what I would suggest you run for an intake aswell for that HP number. As for cam XE 282 would be nice for that set up. A good set of Comp Cam magnum roller rockers. and a 750 holley. While your at it plumb in a 150 hp shot of juice. Lots of fun.

 

[htwheelz67]

My old 351w had a crane hyd roller (conversion) fairly mild, 9.1 compression, twisted wedge heads, rpm intake, 750 carb and made 380 hp. I still have the 11k mile shortblock and the valvetrain has about 5k on it, I'll sell the cam,lifters,matching valve springs, spyder and dog bones for a great price, they are all crane parts cam is 212 220 520 546 112 lca @0.50, good idle and can be used with stock convertor and even efi friendly, I also have custom pushrods for TW heads.......I need to clean my garage my 351 doesnt like my 408 that is on the eng stand next to it

PM me if you are interested

 

[brianj5600]

Have you already bought the rods and oil pump? They are not needed and the oil pump will cost some HP. Any aftermarket heads will work for 400 hp. If you port the 69 heads even a little they will make 400hp. Are they set up with screw in studs and guide plates?
They C4 will have some trouble at 400hp. At 350 a good rebuild is pretty safe. It may last a good while at 400, but I would not count on it lasting forever. Broader Performance has what you need to make it last up to 500hp or more. Check out their web site. I have heard a lot of good stuff about their rebuild kits.

 

[stang-69]

Thanks all your help and advice

Yes the rods and pump are on the shelves in my garage and the pistons are supposed to arrive within a few weeks, I bought them because I want to have a solid bottom on the engine, it may be completed with a windage tray, haven´t decided about that yet.
It´s maybe an overkill but I kinda like the H-rods so ...

Thanks for your offer htweelz, but I have to pass on it, sorry.

 

[rbohm]

Hi!
Got some questions about thr rngine I'm about to build, the target is 350- 400 HP.
This is what I have
Eng.block 351W -71
Eagle rods H-style C-C 5.596, according to manufacturer they are good for 750 HP
KB pistons flat top (KB-151 in the summit catalog)
Melling High-volume oil pump
Holley blue electric fuelpump

I need help with deciding, I´m about this for some time now.
- What cam? I would like to have a roller but I don´t know if its possible to convert nonroller 351W to roller.

-Heads, I do have a pair of -69 heads, they have been milled but the guy i got them from doesn´t know how much has been taken off them, and yes, I´m aware that they won´t do the job for me.

Carb ?? preferably Holley because they are easyest for me to come around

Rockers - I´m getting a set of rollers

Will I have to change torque-cpnverter on the C4 autotrans, how much power can a stock with shiftkit C4 handle?

All ideas are welcome ...

first dump the high volume oil pump as you dont need it, and many people have found that they have problems with distributor gears and cam gears getting torn up in short order.

as far as cam selection goes, you can use a roller cam in a non roller block. there are retrofit roller cams available from comp and crane cams. i would use a set of crane retrofit link bar hydraulic roller lifters. they are expensive though at about $450 a set. you will need a steel distributor gear though, but not a problem. the cam i am going to use in my 289 is a comp cam retrofit roller cam with 260 advertised duration, and .480 lift. the one i recommend for you though is their 270hr cam, part number 35-422-8 270 advertised duration, .533 lift. that cam works in the 1800-5000 rpm range, and will work real nice with the stock converter.

heads, afr 185's or edelbrock performer rpm heads.

intake, performer rpm or weiand stealth intake.

carb holley 750 vacuum secondary.

the C4 can handle 500hp with a few upgrades, most ly better friction materials, and of course the shift kit. i would also upgrade the input shaft as well.

this combo should put out about 425hp, and have a nice fat, flat torque curve in the street driven rpm range.

 

[GNN60GT500]

I still need to get my car to the dyno, but Im running worked 69 heads on my 351W in my car, and I will be very suprised if this car does not put more then 300hp to the ground-

I have not taken it to the track yet, but I did have a little street test with my buddy who runs consistent 13.1s and I beat him pretty easily-

I am also running a Tremec 5 speed and a 9 inch with 4.11s-

For only 350-400hp, if you want to save money, I think you can get away with using the 69 heads if you use the right cam-Ill see if I can dig up the specs on mine and what exactly was done to my heads-

 

[SoCalCruising]

You have a reasonable HP target, given the state of your tranny and stall. You can make the power two ways:
1) 69 heads and moderate street cam - flat tappet
2) better heads and less cam
"2" is more expensive, but will be better as the smaller cam will be more compatible with your transmission. If you can afford the AFRs, great. The standard spring package should be fine for a modest flat tappet cam, as will the 3/8" studs. Comp magnum rollers (not the pricey stainless steel full rollers, but the ones with just the roller tips) would work fine and keep your expenses down. AFRs don't need much of a duration split and work well even with a single pattern cam (165s especially, but 185s, too). A Comp Magnum 270H would be a smallish cam that would definitly work with a stock stall converter. The 280H might be okay. Maybe someone else here has that cam in a similar combo and can say. Your stall and tranny strength argue against more cam. But, you won't need too much cam with AFR heads in order to make the power you stated. If you get excited and decide to upgrade the tranny and stall converter, then your cam choices become much broader.

The Edelbrock RPM heads would be a good choice also, or TW heads. Both (plus others) will get the job done. It's just that AFRs aren't much more if you stick to a mild flat tappet cam. If you go wilder, you will need to upgrade the spring package and go to 7/16 studs. If you get Edelbrock heads, the machine shop I use says that the guides come in a little tighter than they like and they typically touch them with a hone. That said, they now come close to the cost of AFRs, which are good out of the box. Anyway, my $.02.

 

[ratio411]

I still need to get my car to the dyno, but Im running worked 69 heads on my 351W in my car, and I will be very suprised if this car does not put more then 300hp to the ground...

I am not surprised you get good power from stock heads.

The C9 and D0 heads best many aftermarket heads after they have been worked.

The only negative is the work to get the heads to that point is very expensive.
Most folks figure that only a little more dough will get you aluminum heads so you save weight and run more compression.

Where this idea that stock heads can't make power comes from, I have no idea. Ignorance is about all I can figure.

 

[danny clemens]

Where this idea that stock heads can't make power comes from, I have no idea. Ignorance is about all I can figure.

It's not if they could be made to make power the question is why would you want to spend that much money and still have heavy iron heads.

 

[ratio411]

It's not if they could be made to make power the question is why would you want to spend that much money and still have heavy iron heads.

The only negative is the work to get the heads to that point is very expensive.
Most folks figure that only a little more dough will get you aluminum heads so you save weight and run more compression.

My response was already there.

I understand fully what you are getting at and pretty much agree.
The rub comes when you already have a set of the good heads and maybe the inckling to port them yourself. Then it becomes feezable.
OR
If you were to run across a smokin' deal on already modded heads.
We all know that you never get out of car parts what you put in, so ported D0 heads are out there waiting to be plucked for far less than the cost of porting.

I wouldn't recommend going out and paying for a set of unmodded cores and then paying someone else to port them.
You are right, that would be throwing money away.

So, generally speaking, you are preaching to the choir.