Power Window motor/regulator Help Needed

[evenflows4]

My passenger window slowly or not at all and needs me to push it a bit. When its completely closed the motor still keeps spinning inside the door panel. Sounds like the motor keeps trying to close the window even though its all the way up. It never did this before last week.
Motor on the passenger side is 3 years old, drivers is still original and works fine.
On my drivers side once the window is up the motor stops which is correct.

Would it be something inside the panel or would the motor be gone and needs replacing? I have herd it might be the regulator I did take the panel off and tried to see what the issue is.

My question would be, How can you tell when its the motor and when its the regulator?
If the motor keeps going when i am pressing the button even though the window is all the way up, would that then mean the gear inside the motor is gone?

I really cant see how the mechanism / regulator could go


Any help would be appreciated.

1988 Mustang GT hatchback - passenger side window

 

[jrichker]

The window motor gearbox has 3 plastic rollers that are a safety clutch to prevent possible injury if the window is rolled up while something or someone is hanging out the window. The plastic rollers will often disintegrate into chunks of plastic and the window will no longer roll up or down. The motor runs, but the window does not move or only move a lttle.

The Help! section of your local auto parts store will have the replacement plastic rollers. I believe that they are less than $5 for the kit of 3 rollers.

Motor removal & replacement
Remove the door mounted speaker & the upholstery panel to gain access to the motor. There are 3 screws (5/16" hex head, I think) that secure the motor in place. Remove them and the motor comes out without any problems. Once you remove all the screws from the motor, and it falls away from the gear teeth on the arm for the glass, the glass will move up and down. You may need a helper to hold the glass once the motor screws are out, since the gear on the motor holds the glass from sliding up or down

Motor interchange
The motor is the same for left side or right side, only the gearboxes are different. If you can't find the complete assembly for the side you want, you can get either side and use the old gearbox on the new motor.


Power Window Wiring Diagrams
Diagrams courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds
87-92 model cars power window wiring:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang87-92 PowerWindowWiring.gif

93 model cars power window wiring:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustang93PowerWindows.gif

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark

 

[evenflows4]

SO what you are saying is that the motor needs replacing correct?

 

[jrichker]

SO what you are saying is that the motor needs replacing correct?

No.

The plastic rollers inside the motor gearbox need replacing. That's why the roller information is the first thing in the tech note.

 

[evenflows4]

I phoned two major parts place in town and they wont sell the gear separately only the whole motor. And I would prefer to fix the door asap.

On a side not I took the motor apart and yes the gear part is in pieces all crumbled up.

 

[aar0s]

I changed the plastic gears on my rear drivers side window (vert) about 10 years ago and i bought my gears at autozone. make sure you get all of the old gear out before you grease up and install the new ones.
Autozone still lists them on their website...
AutoZone.com | Vehicle Selection | Year

 

[jrichker]

The rollers are in the miscellaneous body parts section of most auto parts stores. They are about 7/16" diameter and 1/2" long. You can cut up some wood dowels or plastic rod from the hardware store or Home Depot if you can't find them in the auto parts store.

For most items like this, it is best just to go look, since relating it to one of the store clerks who has no idea of what you want is a losing battle.

See NAPA Window Regulator Gear Plug

View attachment 251190

Napa p/n Balkamp 6651524

Cost is 9.49$

AutoZone and other auto parts stores see Dorman 74410 / Window Lift Motor Gear Kit
Cost is $7.99

 

[evenflows4]

I guess I forgot to mention that I was in Canada.
I solved the gears issue. And yes this may sound crazy. I presumed that when the parts places were telling me gears I had a different vision in mind of what I needed.
What I did was what jrichker has said in his post. I took the handle off of a foam painting brush. The ones that we always throw away after the foam is done! Well the pack rat I am I kept the handles cut three 1/2 long pieces with the hack saw and after a detailed cleaning and re-greasing put it all back together and installed and the window runs perfect and stops when all the up or down. Problem solved with something sitting on the work bench, all I lost was time but gained knowledge.


So the next time you paint dont throw away the handle of the foam brush. Just in case a buddy you know has the same problem you can say I ll fix it for a case of beer. You show up holding a wooden handle and walk out with a case of beer. Pretty good trade if you ask me.

Thanks to all that posted to help me out, its appreciated.

 

[aar0s]

cheep and easy fixes FTW!

 

[GKforce]

I just replaced the plastic gear and the round bushings. The motors seemed to run well before I reinstalled them, but seem to drag badly when rolled up.
The round bushings were out of round if it matters. I am about to close up the doors with dynamat and dont want to be opening them up for a long time.
Think I should spent the money for now motors?
I notice Autozone has 3 or 4 from about $45 to $80, anyone have any experience with these?
Is the Hi torque better than LOW torque for the money?

Thanks

 

[Prime Lord]

Okay, so my problem sounds similar but not...heh..

I have not noticed the motor slowing down or having issues, but all of a sudden my drivers side window is just dead. The passenger side window works great from the drivers side switch, so I took it apart and swapped the switches to no avail.

The interesting thing is that wailing on it helped the first two times it happened....but now, nothing. And when I hit the switch, the circuit does not load. You know how you can see the difference on the battery gauge when you roll the windows up. Its acting like it is unplugged.

So do I bother trying the plastic bushings, or do I start shopping for a new motor?

 

[302GTS]

Okay, so my problem sounds similar but not...heh..

I have not noticed the motor slowing down or having issues, but all of a sudden my drivers side window is just dead. The passenger side window works great from the drivers side switch, so I took it apart and swapped the switches to no avail.

The interesting thing is that wailing on it helped the first two times it happened....but now, nothing. And when I hit the switch, the circuit does not load. You know how you can see the difference on the battery gauge when you roll the windows up. Its acting like it is unplugged.

So do I bother trying the plastic bushings, or do I start shopping for a new motor?

I'm guessing that the switch on the pass side doesn't work, but the window still works? That wouldn't be the bushings then. If the bushings or shot that doesn't affect what side's switch will work the window.

 

[Prime Lord]

Right...which is why I said when I flipped the switches around it made no change to the situation ruling out the switch being the problem.

 

[Lawbreaker5.0]

Years ago i couldn't get my window to go down and i buddy of mine at my old job walks up to my car and says hold the switch down. i held it down and he hit the bottom right (driverside) door panel almost where the speaker is(where the motor is) and it started working. he said the motor is on its way out but this will work for 6months to a year. might try it, but it sounds like the motor is bad

 

[Prime Lord]

Well, I bit the bullet and got a new motor. $100 from the dealer. I thought about the $40 & $80 ones from autozone and then I remembered the time I got an alternator from there. After the 5th one in 2 months caught fire I decided to go elsewhere. Heh. For complicated electrical stuff the actual Ford part makes sense. I mean the one that's in there lasted 23 years, right?

 

[fiveohwblow]

I would agree with you wholeheartedly. Let us know how it goes and if you need any more help. I have replaced a few of those myself.