Problem After Anderson Power Pipe Please Help!!!!

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by pearlnotchback, Sep 18, 2013.

  1. Ive got a 306 with B cam, ported Cobra intake, Edelbrock performer heads, 70 tb, pro m mass air, 24 lb injectors and 6 lb Vortech. So I decided to buy an Anderson power pipe and install it. Well now i have a horrible idle problem and it bucks like a bronco cruising under 2500 rpms. when I drive it and stop the idle will hang at 1200 and if i let it sit there and idle a while its like someone flips a switch and it instantly drops to 800 then back up to 1200 then a few seconds later back down to 800. I cant check for codes with the check engine light because i have all autometer gauges and i also dont have a scanner but i did spray everything with carb cleaner looking for air leaks. I checked tps voltage, set the base idle 8 or 9 times. I cleaned the IAC and even left it unplugged while it was running and that made no difference. I dont understand what could have changed from just adding a power pipe. Wide open throttle runs like a champ.
    Please help im lost and about to pull my hair out :nonono:
    #1 pearlnotchback, Sep 18, 2013
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2013
  2. Check again for Vacuum leaks. Follow the vac lines that you played with to each end.

    Disconnect and reconnect your TPS and IAC. Make sure you didn't break any wires and that the pins are good. Do the same with the MAF sensor.

    You can also check for changes with these items with the engine running. No change = the culprit.

    If you played with the Salt and Pepper shakers, check those too.

    After that's done, and if everything checks out, re-clock your MAF meter. Rotate it 30*-90* and try again.

    If none of that works, take ur broke ass down to Walmart and get a code reader. LOL They're like $30 for OBD1.
  3. Lol i actually didnt know you can get those at Walmart. While the car was running I unplugged the TPS and it made a little surge as soon as i unplugged it and with it unplugged it stayed running the same with no change and when i plugged it back in it made another little surge and that was it. would this mean it is bad? I also unplugged my ECT sensor and the car made no change what so ever. Could this be bad also?

  4. That TPS might need a little more looking into.

    Pull it off, clean the hell out of it, and install it with a new gasket to see if there's any improvement.

    The fact that the ECT sensor made no change when you unplugged it, doesn't surprise me at all. Since you mentioned it though, the ECT is what tells the EEC whether the engine is warm, or cold. Generally, the worse case scenario is that the EEC runs in open loop with a faulty ECT. It has been known to cause some of the other symptoms you describe though too. The hanging idle (something the EEC likes to do to a cold motor but not to the extreme that you describe), and poor idling characteristics if the EEC thinks you're in the frozen tundra. Would also explain why the car runs so well at WOT and not part power. When you go to WOT, the EEC reverts to open loop anyway.

    Check the sensor with a DVM. Get a reading when it's cold. It should read 2000 ohm, give or take. It's not really important what the reading is so long as you write down what it is when cold. Run the motor for at least two minutes. Disable your cooling fan if you have an electric one or drive the car around for a bit. Check the ECT again. There should be MORE than a 200 ohm variance form the sensor when compared against the reading when cold. If not, it's bad.
  5. Im going to go get a code reader tomorrow and im also going to check the ohms on my ECT. I havent been able to mess with it today but I just cant for the life of me imagine what could cause this when it was running so well before the power pipe. My mass air sensor is sitting at straight up 12 o clock. Should I still try and rotate it?
  6. Save your money and use a test light and a paper clip. The Equis code reader is nice and I have one, but if the $$ are tight, a $12 test light is a money saver...

    Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.

    Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

    Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.

    Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.

    Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

    Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.

    Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
    Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.



    If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.


    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

    89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.


    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

    WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

    What to expect:
    You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and driveablity problems

    Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

    Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

    Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

    Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
    See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10

    Alternate methods:
    For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

    Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30-$36.
  7. Do just one thing at a time but yes. If the ECT checks out then rotate it next and try it.

    I run a Pro-M sensor and an Anderson N/A pipe with the MAF in the wheel well. Initially, it like the airflow pattern it was getting. I reclocked it twice before I found a sweet spot that it was happy with under all conditions.
  8. Did you have any trouble getting the boot to tighten up on the pro m? I have the pro m without the flanges and it was kind of a pain.

  9. I don't think we have the same thing. Mine is setup to that a flange bolts to it. So I picked the flange separately. Amazingly, the flange I picked up for it is the same 4 inches as the Anderson pipe that I bought. :D

    That part was pretty simple for me.

    If you can... post up a pic of what you have. I might be able to turn you onto some pieces and parts that will make it a little easier for you.

    Attached Files:

  11. All I've got to add is you have a HCI car with 6# of boost and are only running 24# injectors? FMU or something I assume? The HCI intake alone are enough to make full duty cycle on those injectors. I have a stock (intake only) motor with 10-12# from a vortec and run 36# injectors for good measure.
  12. Didn't you hear? You can run 375hp on 24lbers no problem! lol ( running joke)

    Serious. unless he has the FP turned WAY - or he has a terrible setup making no power- those injectors are still too small for my taste. I would say 42's but you could get away with 36's and ditch the FMU with a good tune.

    Plus the PowerPipe should bump the boost by at least 3-4 lbs further maxing out the injectors.
  13. I think I read about 3 post in that thread and moved on... el oh el....
  14. I'd missed what these guys are talking before... There's a blower on this thing too? Snap a good pic from the top of the motor if you can. Are you trying to get it running for the first time, this way with the blower installed?

    Hopefully not. Should try and get it running N/A first. Get that straightened out and THEN put the blower on.
  15. Noobz, yep base model Vortech....add the power pipe and you have 8-10 lbs.

    By the way.. ALL HAIL THE B CAM
  16. Crap my bottlenecked stock motor (pro products intake only) makes 10-13 on a 3.33 upper and 6.78 lower. :D Should have seen it on the 2.75 upper... talk about KILL mode lol.

    B cam seems WAY small for that set up. It probably would run better under boost with the stock cam (big lsa). But it will still be a BLAST once its figured out.

  17. Meh... It's a pretty good low-mid cam. Will be a good combo once the centrifugal is hooked up and working correctly.


    What I mean is: Yeah, there's better but it's not going to suck.
  18. No I've been running the blower for a long time. Even with the 24's and Im running an FMU. I just decided to buy a power pipe to get the air cleaner out of the engine compartment away from the heat. I didn't start having any problems until I installed the power pipe and that's what I'm trying to figure out. Here is a picture before the power pipe like 3 days ago. I don't have one with the power pipe yet.

    Attached Files:

  19. All of my problems started when I put the power pipe on. I haven't had a chance to work on it anymore since I started this thread because I caught one bad ass head cold that's been going around but I will be back on it tomorrow.