Project DEVIAT1 has commenced

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by TenorPlayinGuy, Jan 14, 2010.

  1. was that a GT you switched over to an LX? and what are the 42# injectors for? what color you painting it?

    looks like its been a good project car so far. can't wait to see it painted
  2. Now with the first stage of wetsanding and rust removal. Found a set of 91-93 Fenders, a decent pair of Front and Rear LX bumpers, and a EXCELLENT Hatch with working defroster grid, and upgraded latch assembly. All is already wired and working perfect. Oh and did I mention that I got it all for only $80 and that the hatch came with the trim piece in PERFECT condition.

    Now it's got a full 3 coats of EverCoat FeatherFill Buff Primer. I have NOT seen it in one single color in almost 6 years. it's coming along nice, if I do say so myself... Unfortunately this is where all the TINY imperfections start to jump out at you.

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    I'll take some more and update you all in a bit. :D
  3. It was originally an LX and I was going to do a cobra conversion, however I had a run in with a parking block. Tore that bumper to shreds and I realized that I loved the way it USED to look.

    I am going to paint it Bimimi Blue. Molding and all. The wheels are going to get re-powdered a darker grey, as they are silver right now.

    The 42# injectors were for a supercharger that I used to have. That is now mounted onto one of our fellow stangnet members vehicles. I still have em, but don't know what to do with them.
  4. Im gonna fix those img's they are soo small!
  5. I had a 92 droptop that was factory Bimimi Blue. I love that color/
  6. Yes I would, that would be awesome! I'm stoked to finally have my own thread in this section. Been waiting too long for it to happen
  7. Tried to get some more wetsanding done before it started to rain. Getting a better idea of all the little things that I need to get done. Lots of paint flakes that need filling, and some of the surface rust I had needs some more leveling. Keep you guys posted.

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    It's coming along quite nicely. Trying to go one panel at a time. Still waiting on a door molding and my fender molding. Then I can get further along, and i'll have only a mist coat to check for high and low spots I can't see then I'll get my paint and clear. Hopefully just another week and I'll have a full coat of color. :nice:
  8. Rain sucks. Pushed my progress back.

    At least it gives me more time to get the funds and supplies together.
  9. progress looks great!!

    not having ever done any body/paint work, why does it seem that most of you guys remove the 1/4 windows when you're painting? wouldn't it be easier to maske them off?
  10. You are using guide coat then for the spots you need to touch up?
  11. Haven't been able to get the guide coat on yet. That glazing putty is currently being used to fill the minor pits left behind from the original paint. You don't sand those your fill them back to level. The highs and lows are pretty apparent right now, but before I do the final primer coat, I will mist a light grey over the car. And when I block it then, I'll get a better idea of any high/low spots that may be apparent.

    The reason I had removed the windows was for two reasons. Masking can leave an edge at the trim piece, and it is noticeable to me. (I'm gonna do this once and the right way). Second I have a new set of windows that I purchased from the bay, and they are in prestine condition as compared to my rotting old ones. This paint job will also include the door jams and hatch underside. The engine bay will be shot with black, as I don't have the time to really address the engine bay right now. (And i feel that it will look very nice with a satin engine and compartment in that color.

    Thanks for the input and props guys, I still cannot believe what a difference just priming the color in a single color made to the car. I was really on the verge of selling it. Then I found out how cheap it was to do my car and bam, so far only $120 has gone into it. The paint is another $145, and the clear is another $150 altogether. (Remember clear coat is the pricey coat. I could have easily spent $500 on a good clear)

    Til next update!
  12. that makes sense. and by "rotting" do you mean the trim around the windows is rough? if that's what you mean, mine are doing that as well. the black area around each 1/4 window is VERY rough and ugly. guess i could be looking at replacing mine as well :shrug:
  13. Yes, the molding piece is what was terrible. But mine weren't even candidates for the steeda molding pieces that glue on. Mine were so rotted that they had curled and fell off almost completely.

    I have a replacement set, they aren't "Perfect" but they are 100 times better. Maybe a slight scuff here and there, but overall good rubber condition.
  14. looks like your making great progress. did you paint your exhaust to or is it taped off?
  15. Its primed. The exhaust is getting replaced after I'm done with the paint, the same with the front balding tires. My rivet style Cobras are getting re-powdered, and the rear polished R's are a donor from my moms 94 vert. Long story is I am getting a new set of tires and while the front two are getting redone, the other two are on the car. I only mask off the rear tires/wheels when i get spraying
  16. Now I've been getting a bunch of PM's about how I am doing the process, and what products I am using. Well Let me list them here, so I can help some of you along your way to getting your resto's started/completed.

    First there is assessment of the worst: Really take a step back and look at what your dealing with. My car had some really good lines, not really many dents (It is 22 years old). It does take skill to finesse the finish of your car. Paintucation videos can only show you the methods and such, it will never replace the feel of doing it and thinking you have it perfect, only to have an experienced person come and show you what you did wrong. Some cars are in mint condition, yet still have flaws in the bodywork. Really and I mean REALLY take a step back and see what needs to be replaced, poked, prodded, hammered, welded, filled, cut, etc etc etc.

    Fillers: You have your bondo, you have feather fills, you have glazing putty. Use them in that sequence. Fill your major dents first, Bondo is good for THICK heavy filling. And when I mean think I don't mean redesigning the aerodynamics of your car think, I mean between 1/2-1/4" of thickness, and thats still thick. Your dent's should not be so far in, pull them out with a slide hammer, or pound them out with a hammer. You can always fill a bit, so don't worry about pounding them too far.
    Next use a feather fill or lightweight filler. for 1/4-1/16 filling, slight ripples in the paint, a small door ding, etc. This is a compound used to help level larger areas. I ended up skimming my whole roof with this stuff, due to some minor rust pitting. This is also another product applied prior to the first coat of primer.
    Final pinholes, paint chip recesses and further shallow low spots can be filled using a glazing putty (might want to get 2 of these tubes). Never sand down chipping paint. You will end up with low spots galore, or waves in the finished panel. Refill this lost layer with the glazing/spot putty.

    After the first coat of primer, you can mist coat to help find the highs/lows in the panels when you sand it over. The second coat of primer will help fill in minor pinholes, and Give you a nice even layer (assuming you use a filler primer) and if you get a nice smooth coat after sanding this layer with 320-400 grit paper, than you should not need a third coat. I am using Evercoats Featherfill Buff colored primer. 3m/Bondo Glazing putty, and Evercoats featherfill lightweight filler.

    Paint will be PPG base coat (and I have not settled on a clear yet)

    Tools needed: (maybe more depending on what you have to work with)
    Sanding block, various sizes help, but time and patience can make the small one work fine..
    Paper/Tape (cover what you don't want painted/primed)
    Primer (I picked up a gallon of Evercoats Featherfill for only $66/gallon)
    Glazing putty (get two tubes, can be gotten for about $5/ea)
    Featherfill (Got a quart for about $20, but mostly used some old stuff on the shelf)
    Sandpaper, (Get the big sheets and cut them yourself, or get the rolls if you need them longer, Price varies, but usually $3-4/per pack of 5. 180-400 grit should be sufficient, unless major paint removal is required.)
    Time (if you can't set aside the time to get it done until it's finished don't start, don't be like me and have to put it off for a week at a time, but do take the time to get it done right as well)

    I know I have missed plenty, I will amend this post, and add as I need to. Please keep in mind that I do not have any experience myself with bodywork. This is my first go at it, and I thank my stepdad for his experience and knowledge in getting this project ready for me, and kicking me in the butt when I get lazy on it. Thanks fellas for all your kind words, and hopefully before February is done I'll have a sick Bimimi Blue Hatch for all your viewing pleasure. Thanks
  17. I broke parts, I need dew wipes and moldings for the driver doors. Other than that I'm still stalled on this project. bummer, no time, and no exp to do it on my own.