Progress Thread Project Sloth - It Barely Makes Any Progress

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by FastDriver, Sep 27, 2012.

  1. The ugly truth: the car looks horrible. I just came home on a 1 week trip to visit my mother, my brothers, and my girl. I drove the Mustang while I was here, washed it, vacuumed it, and put it back under its cover. The car was depressing to drive... that's right... depressing. It needs so much work it makes me sad. It has been neglected for the last 3.5 years through 2 deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan, and through my 3, going on 4, years assignment to Germany. The paint is peeling, the interior panels look like hell. There was a dead mouse on the passenger floor board, and mouse :poo: all throughout the car to include in the engine bay.... horrible. I can't take it anymore, and I'm set to come back to the states in a little less than a year, so it's time to get started!

    I called Rick a couple days ago and told him to come get the car, and it looks like it'll be mid October when he makes it out.

    In 2007, when I was deployed for the first time to Iraq, I had the engine built, a roll cage installed, and tubular suspension done up front when I was deployed to Iraq a few years ago. The car made 762 rwhp at 15 psi. You can check out my first build thread if you're interested.
    This is going to be a separate build thread, and most of the posts will probably be by Rick as he gets through with the things he does. I'm sure I'll catch flak for not building it myself, and to an extent, I do feel a little bad about it, but I have more money than time, and I don't want to wait until I'm out of the military to have the car of my dreams.

    I've saved for a long time, and I'm also going to sell my Corvette to raise some more funds for the project. It's going to take quite a bit to get the car where I want it to go. So, I thought about it, and spent the week writing out the things that came to mind. Below is the list I sent to Rick. I'm going to go snap some shots of the car to post. So you guys have an idea of how it sits.

    Phase 1 - rear end, and transmission:

    - Mini-tub
    - 9" rear with the adjusted mounts for traction (like you discussed with dave at Team-Z), 35-spline axles, Wave-trac diff, let's talk about rear gear
    - Coil-overs and built suspension to optimize straight traction
    - Removable wheelie bars/ parachute
    - roll rear quarter panel lips if necessary
    - Modify Cobra R's to fit. (11"? can't remember)
    - Repaint/repair Cobra R external surfaces
    - Replace Tires (335-ish tires for the rear).
    - Send back BS3 box for upgrade (want slew rate control, compatibility with Vista, most up-to-date operating software, Cam synch, and operability with J&S knock sensor)
    - Add driveshaft speed sensor (ensure there are enough input ports remaining on BS3)

    - Relocate Weldon 2025A as necessary and run Mac 3" tail-pipes from current exhaust system
    - Rear seat delete (prefer load bearing)
    - Sound deadening under the delete kit from the site we looked at before as discussed. (would like it to be easily removable if that can be done without compromising the sound deadening) Will consider getting enough material to do the rest of the interior during Phase 3.
    - New/very clean black interior
    - Place electronics (BS3, MSD Box, J&S Safeguard from phase 2) on or under rear seat delete (need fans to keep cool?). This should allow you to pull excess wires out of engine bay.
    - Rear hatch closes on roll cage bars leaving marks on the hatch panel and rattles. What should we do here?

    Phase 2 - Engine stuff
    - Replace boost lines with high temp push-lok hose (
    - Add turbo blanket to turbine housing
    - Diagnose low compression in cylinders 5 and 6 and recommend course of action if necessary
    - Replace condenser with one that brings hoses to opposite side, away from turbo heat, and then recharge A/C
    - Clean Engine bay. Find the best way to keep oil from getting all over everything. Perhaps, a better mounting place for the oil-catch
    - Replace O2 sensor
    - Replace top radiator mounts with my new one in one of the boxes (black)
    - Replace intake "dayton performance" panel with "Powered by Ford - Turbo 331" if all of that will fit, or "Powered by Ford" if not.
    - check Head stud torque
    - Replace cracked/overheated spark plugs and wrap or determine how to protect them from heat. Particularly cylinders 3 & 4

    - T6 flange instead of T4 for Turbo? Need to reduce backpressure
    - Swap 75mm TB and turbo inlet tubing for 90mm
    - Add J&S Safeguard knock sensor box w/ display and configure with BS3 for datalogging
    - Add Cam sensor to BS3 for individual cylinder timing and fuel trimming

    Phase 3 - More Interior stuff
    - complete sound deadening forward of the rear seat delete
    - Replace ashtray with switch panel (think I already have a new one in box)
    - relocate switch from shifter bezel to ashtray
    - Add hidden Cut-off switch inside
    - Replace seats with recaros or corbeaus, or similar
    - add accessories/switches from the new boxes
    - I want a e-brake boot and if possible would like to improve the emergency brake effectiveness (I might already have the brake boot in the boxes, or I can figure out where to order it)
    - Fix driver's window (it rotates freely within the door)
    - door/hatch/moon shade seal replacement
    - Dark tint all the way around - no bubbles (let's talk about legality)
    - Racepack dash backlight is out - send back for repair
    - Add padding to roll cage in vicinity of driver's and passenger's heads (black padding)

    Phase 4 - Exterior
    - Can waves and bumps in hood be repaired during repaint? If not, replace.
    - passenger side rear lower panel dent repaired
    - Remove rear "SVT" badge permanently

    - Front bumper is deformed above the license plate area. Allows water to stand below the radiator opening and looks wrong. Diagnose and repair. Maybe the car has been in an accident. There's too much space between the front plastic fascia and the actual bumper/crash bar
    - Front driver's side fender/front fascia connection is split and there is damage to one side or the other that is causing them not to line up correctly
    - an extra cable/connector falls below the front bumper on the passenger side. Find what it's supposed to go to or remove it
    - License plate bracket that allows license plate to flip up to expose the battery switch
    - Really good paint job
    - include new pieces and old pieces - allows me to put back to stock if I ever feel like it

    Phase 5 - Transmission
    - Toughest streetable H-pattern street shifted 6-speed transmission on the market (Tranzilla?/TR-6060?)
    - Appropriate shifter (liked the Pro50)
    - Twin disc clutch
    - Appropriate Scattershield
    - Appropriate driveshaft
    - .50 6th gear preferred, but not at the expense of strength in the first 4 gears.

    Phase 6 - semi-necessary stuff (can I afford anything by phase 5?)
    - Sell and replace Ultraflow mufflers with quieter ones. Replace dumps with electric cutout and dual 3" exhaust tips. Non-chrome tips aluminum is good-looking enough
    - Tune
    - idle surges/stalls when cold
    - tip-in/accelerator pump tweeking... bogs when cold, but is a little better when warm
    - reset 3500 rpm limiter to 7000 rpm (MSD box)
    - Want pump gas tune at 15 psi and less
    - Race tune... max turbo pressure
    - 15" wheels/tires
    - Replace rear brake brackets and rotors with new smaller ones (in box in car). Potentially replace pads if needed
    - '86 tail lights
    - Fuel level gauge
    - Quieter fuel system (maybe)
    #1 FastDriver, Sep 27, 2012
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2016
  2. This is going to be sickly awesome. Rick is going to have his hands full these days. Seems like he has a lot of high-dollar projects going on!

    No hate on you not doing the work. Your situation is understandable, and I can appreciate how you want the car quicker. It will take you a crazy long time to build a car like this yourself.

    What are your ultimate goals for the car? As I read through the list, I seem to be conflicted by certain directions you are going. On one end it seems like it's going to be an all-out drag car with things such as wheelie bars and a chute...but then I see things like nice paint, full interior with sound deadening, 6 speed transmission, A/C. With how nice (and expensive) it seems like this build will be, I would be scared to send it down the 1/4 mile for a possible sub-9 second pass. Nonetheless, this should be pretty awesome.
  3. Scott, it's a "sickly" fast street car. All said and done, that turbo is rated for 1200 hp. The fuel system in it is good for 1400 with gasoline. So, eventually it will be going down the 1/4 mile at somewhere between 140 and 155 mph on this engine setup. I will probably get an auto in the future and run both... The auto on the strip and the manual on the street. At those trap speeds, I want the safety of wheelie bars and a chute.

    Since I was beat up for pictures in my last build thread, here's the baseline, fellas. Rick will have to do the rest of the photography until I get it back.

    20120927_095211_zps367b7624.jpg 20120927_095259_zps527361e7.jpg 20120927_095239_zps427f01ac.jpg 20120927_095524_zps705304bc.jpg 20120927_100102_zpsfb892043.jpg 20120927_095845_zpsd6c41de4.jpg 20120927_100028_zps64350d3e.jpg 20120927_095950_zps43e51bc3.jpg 20120927_095854_zpsce748877.jpg 20120927_095630_zps7400bd5e.jpg 20120927_095336_zps43124088.jpg 20120927_095357_zpsd12b5326.jpg 20120927_095415_zpsf423fe85.jpg 20120927_095429_zps3e8b4551.jpg
  4. Sounds good, Chris! Staying black with the repaint?
  5. Its gonna be great.

    what turbo is that?
  6. This will be awesome. You've earned it.
  7. I read this already. Sounds sweet. Keep us updated. With pics.
  8. Chris great idea!!!! nice parts list! sit back and let Rick do his thing....i can tell you when hes done it will be the car of your dreams and bro you deserve it just for all the bs alone you have been thru with your car!!! now the fact that you have been over in the sand box from hell for all those years makes you deserve it even more!!! really looking forward to this build!!
  9. I think you are wasting your time with wheelie bars, the chute is a good idea. Also, look into a spool instead of a limited slip. You are at the level where it it going to make some serious power and if it hooks hard its gonna break some stuff
  10. Spool and a car that's gonna see some street time is not a good idea...
  11. I'm not sure, Nik. At first thought, I think so. However, there are a lot of good looking colors out there. I really like the le mans blue on the Z06 corvettes. I wonder if it would look as good on a fox. Before the paint job, I'll probably start looking through google images for some cool fox body paint jobs to get some ideas.

    GT4276. It's a GT4202-R (R = Dual Ball Bearing) with a precision 76mm compressor. They rate it about 100 hp higher than the standard 74mm wheel.

    What did you read already? Wilco on the pics if I can get Rick to document his endeavors. Should make an interesting build thread, and hopefully will turn out better than my last experience with a shop on this car.
    You know how much I love yours. If Rick puts that level of attention to detail into mine, I'll be tickled pink.
    Really? Why would the wheelie bars be a waste? I don't want the car to end up on its back bumper, and it certainly has the power to put it there. I can definitely see this thing with slicks on a preped track in the future. I always thought I'd end up going with a spool, but the wave trac design is a pretty good one, and I haven't heard of anyone breaking one of the new ones. It's not exactly a limited slip diff in the sense you might be thinking. Check it out here:
    I'm not afraid of running a spool, but it is supposed to be a street car, at least in the near term. It'll be set up to go straight - no more corner carving for this old car, but a spool is overkill and I want the car to be fun. If I was looking to get the most out of it on a track, then a spool would go in without question, and so would an auto. But, I'm willing to sacrifice a little to try and make it live up to the "street" part of "street car."

    Thanks for the replies, fellas. Glad to see there's some interest in this one.
  12. That posi looks pretty stout, and for a grand it should be. I dont think you will have problems with that. I just blew the cast case apart on my eaton so thats why i reccomended the spool. I just ordered my 35 spline strange spool axles and a new set of 4.30s that got wrecked in the process.

    As far as the wheelie bars go, it takes alot of power and a pretty aggressive suspension setup to get a car on the bumper. If you set the car up right you shouldnt ever need them. Most average turbo cars dont leave very hard anyways. If its uncontrollable just leave with less boost. I have a friend from jersey that runs true street and the car leaves very mellow, doesnt even pick the front tires up more than 6'' if that, and runs 8.50's at over 150mph
    tannerc91gt likes this.
  13. I read it in the tech section. I think? I drink a lot so that could explain things. Anyway, yeah Rick, pics of your magic.
  14. I am really digging that Wavetrac differential. I wonder if Rick 91GT can get pricing on them for an IRS?:chin
  15. Good points, thanks! I'll talk to Rick about it. It might just be an easier thing to do now while doing the rear, rather than to wait and do it later.
    Yes, a very kickass design. I think it's the perfect solution to a high powered street car that doesn't want the issues of a spool on the street. The early gen had some problems with high powered applications, but according to the owner of the company, whom I spoke to over the phone, they redesigned it and haven't had an issue, since. I think they come with a good warranty, too.
  16. These are the tires I think I want:
    They would go pretty well with some 3.40:1 rear gears and a .5:1 6th gear, which would let me go 70 at just ~1540 RPM. In 4th gear, I would still be able to go through the traps at as high as 159 mph @ 7k RPM. I doubt I'll ever see that with the manual, but even at 140 mph, I'm still at 6180 RPM. It would also be pretty close to, but not quite as steep as, a '13 GT500's gearing. The biggest difference would be wheel & tire radius. The GT500 has some massive 285/35/20 tires with a 27.85" diameter whereas I would be at 25.9" diameter with these tires, according to Hoosier's website (a little off from the direct calculation from the tire specs). It also says they require a wheel that is 11-13".
  17. Great build Chris! Looks like you already have some pretty good hardware to start with. I think it is cool to have Rick build up the car from its current state. Was talking to a local racer that runs some fox cars and he is actually narrowing the 8.8" rear 1.5" to keep the tires off the fender well. Might be something to consider especially with the mini tub.

    What issues do people have on the street with a spool? I have a spool and do not have any problems with 245/45-17's on 9" rims all around. I am cautious on turns at higher speeds on the street but did not build the car for fast turns anyway. The Fox is a short wheel base anyway and front heavy, im 45%/55% currently. I would never have a high powered street car like mine with anything but a spool.

  18. Good to know, Scott. That's why I'm not afraid of a spool, but I'm going to give the wave trac a try and I'll let ya know. If it doesn't work, spool will be try #2.
  19. Dang. Those tires look stickier than fresh-cut pine stump in July. Nice.
    blackfive-o likes this.
  20. haha. I hope so. Guys are saying they've run in the 1.5s with them. Sounds good to me! Also, I'm going to have him find a way to relocate the weldon pump so I can 3" Mac tail pipes. Let me tell ya, dumped Ultraflo race magnums are LOUD!!!
    Going back to running tail pipes to the back should help out big time. Anyone got a pic of a hatchback LX with 3" pipes?