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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by FastDriver, Sep 27, 2012.
Sounds like your entire plan is coming together well.
They have great products and I've heard they do great work....communicate...nope. I had problems with them in that area myself
You dealing with Dave directly ? . Next time you get him on the phone maybe express that you need communication . Also they definitely do awesome fab work .
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
I just read this. Your decision to go w/ a drag race prepped chassis, and then compromise that by running a giant front tire is kinda going a little backwards isn't it?
If the objective is to have the fastest possible chassis combo, why would you carry (and push) what amounts to an additional 40 lbs over what a set of the 18 x 4 versions of your wheel of choice would weigh w/ tires?
Skinny Tire Shootout: 18x9.5 Versus 18x4.5 At The Dragstrip - Dragzine
This test, done on an 1/8 mile using a heavy street car set up for street driving w/ 600 RWHP netted a savings of a tenth when they just switched to the lighter wheel, The estimated ET reduction was two tenths in the quarter, and that is on a car not even optimized to use them. Much faster cars successfully run skinnies up front and still manage to get stopped w/o a chute, I think w/ the Baers, you would be able to as well.
I think you're cheating yourself out of a quarter of a second.
Sometimes it is not so much the weight of the wheel/tire, but the contact patch with the ground. The larger the contact patch with the ground the more rolling resistance. That is the real benefit of skinnies up front, less rolling resistance/drag equates to quicker E/T. Same with the rear, putting 16 X 32 tires on a 10 second car is about as stupid as it gets. If I can get a 1.27 sec 60' out of a 26 X 8.5 tire and run 8's in the 1/4 @ over 3,200 lbs, why the hell does a 10 sec ride need steamrollers? Outside of the "look" and you don't have to understand a damn thing about suspension geometry to get traction, you are just costing yourself E/T big time.
All I know is that it doesn't take any special mathematical multipliers to understand that pushing a mounted motorcycle tire vs a mounted 265 x 40 x 17 up a hill is easier. Any day you want to test that theory just requires a dozen of each, and two "subjects", each given the choice of which set they'd rather push up that hill.
Motorcycle tire will win everytime.
Additionally, using the same "applied science of common sense" and using the same two wheel/tire combos mounted on a spindle, it takes way less effort to start the lighter tire spinning, and a whole lot more effort to make the bigger tire stop,
So rotational mass, when forced to either start quickly, or assist in a slow down is worth considering when building car where the prime objective is to get to the other end of the track as quickly as possible.
(And then be able to slow it back down w/o having to have a 6 piston caliper, on a 15" rotor)
Now that example that I linked suggested that Weld themselves figured that the multiplier for unsprung weight savings to be more like 5 pounds for every 1 pound saved, based on where it was removed. So saving 40 pounds of rotational mass would be more like saving 200 pounds off of the car, hence the .10 reduction in their 1/8th mile test, and their estimated .20 savings in the quarter. Given that they were estimating that reduction based on a car that couldn't get better than a 1.73 60' w/ the fatties and immediately picked up the tenth in the first 60' w/ the skinnies w/ a suspension set up for street duty is where I gave you the extra benefit of 5 hundredths considering the intended setup, and usage of your car.
Go let the air out of your car tires, to say just 22psi and try to push it. Now air them up to 45psi and try again. It takes about 1/3rd the effort. I think your rolling resistance coefficient #s are off a lot. Kind of like having a dyno queen that makes good numbers, but sucks at the track, why is that? Yet someone else with way less HP #s on the dyno but runs hard at the track.......it is all on how efficient the car is set up, and when at the track actually pushing through the air and how the engine actually sees the air at speed compared to stationary hood up #s on the dyno pushing nothing but the rollers. That is the simple answer.
How much air does a 245/45/18 have to push out of the way at speed compared to a 26 X 4 X 15 at speed? Just the air resistance, not factoring in rolling resistance/road friction/weight. It is like 3 times as much. Do that at over 100 mph and the gains are substantial.
The reason I say 3 times as much, is not because the 245/45/18 is 3 times as wide, it is not, it is the tire profile. The 245/45/18 from straight on is pretty square, the 26 X 4 X 15 has a pronounced round profile which is more forgiving to air flow.
I think it's all a moot point and there are too many words for my attention span.
Use a street tire on the street and a track tire at the track.
.....Except now that I am married, it's the exact opposite
Hah! Love that meme. Make sure you post pics of the car once you get it back and keep us updated. Those are the wheels I want to go with after I convert to 5 lug(next year hopefully).
I really really like those wheels. Rear setup is sweet.
Did you have to mini tub and/or shorten axle to fit those tires?
Looks amazing. Very cool
That looks really good.
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I've never used a performance shop in much of a capacity past tuning. I've been listening to another buddy **** about similar problems with another well known shop in Houston. How does this work? Do you send them the car, a list of work to be done, and a stack of freshly minted 100 dollar bills and wait?
If so, I'd be up their ass constantly, but I understand your priorities and why you havent been.
If you haven't paid them yet, how do you hold them accountable? This is the #2 reason I don't like using shops because they pick their favorite customers and the rest of us commoners be damned.
just come pick mine up, its ready. I just dont drive it.
Experiences like these is why after only 3 weeks of my car sitting in the dirt I had a tow truck pick it up and put it back in my garage. I probably avoided a huge tornado of chit by playing it safe. It's difficult to pick up your car in pieces and take it home while having to pay for their time to dismantle your vehicle. This reminds me of the thread about Rick from RNH.
That sucks. Sorry to hear it. I'm familiar with the dilemma.
Any updates on that guy? Has anyone heard at all from him, or is he laying low since flying the coop on his customers? It's like he dropped off the face of the earth?