Project: Swapping 94 Gt drivetrain to 1999 V6 Vert chassis

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 99FiveOh, Apr 30, 2011.

  1. I have no experience with the Painless setups. It would work, but you'd still have issues with your instrument cluster working half ass. The money you'd spend on that painless harness would probably get you the factory harnesses and a couple more parts in the process!

    I would say yes, it's worth it to do the swap IF you have a donor car available. Mine was a total loss so it worked out for me this way. I'd much rather have an 03/04 Cobra drivetrain, but we can all wish can't we!
  2. I wanted to update my thread here as I've added a Vortech SQ supercharger. It made 350 rwhp 373 tq @12 psi boost with completely stock longblock. The numbers were low for this much boost because the tuner had to pull some timing out due to the ACT sensor not being in the discharge tube. I will relocate it and go back for another round on the dyno and possibly a smaller pulley and meth injection.

    Here's some pics of the setup:



  3. Looks awesome man. Good numbers.

  4. after I move my ACT to the discharge tube I'll go back to have a couple more degrees of timing added in which will probably put me up to around 380-390 rwhp. Then later on pulley swap and meth injection should really make a difference.
  5. Like I said before "Not too shabby" for stock heads and cam.

    What's your fuel setup at this point?
  6. 255 in tank, 42 lb injectors and a 75mm pro M bullet
  7. I gotta to tell you I just read this entire thread. Congrats on the conversion, awesome read.

    That Pro-M bullet is power robber. We used 3 meters in my dyno session and it made the least amount of power. If you check the 94-95 sticky the CFM is just a tad better than the stock 70MM. Just throwing that out there for your next dyno session. I'd say you got another 20HP if you changed to a Pro-M 80MM or 77MM.
  8. Damn, I woukd have thought a 70mm would have been big enough. I have either a 73mm or a 77mm. I can't remember.

  9. For that particular meter it's not about size. The 73MM C&L out flows the bullet 75MM by a lot. This meter also has clocking issues, well at least it did awhile ago.
  10. It's all good now, I had to buy a MAFia and install it right on the dyno. As far as a restriction trust me it's not. I made 12 psi with the stock 3.33 pulley and 6.87" crank pulley so I'd say my homemade power pipe and the MAF are flowing well. The tuner said I have plenty of room to grow with the MAFia on there since it's only set to "2". The bullet did run out of steam about about 4500 rpm and around 8 psi. The first full pull showed the A/F shoot up to 14:1 as he shut it down.

    The car really is a blast to drive thought and he said I could pretty much beat the crap out of it without incident because it's a very conservative tune with timing locked at only 18* total.
  11. What's MAFia?

    That was my point the bullet meter runs out. On the dyno it was maxed on my car around 4800rpm. The Pro-M77 made like 14HP more than the Bullet. It's a good looking meter but for some reason doesn't flow very well. With the Pro-M 80 MM and AFM power pipe my car picked up 3psi with Vortech S-Trim. Probably a little too much boost, I was seeing 14.5psi on the gauge.
  12. The bullet came with the kit I bought used. At 12 psi I don't think I'm losing any boost by running it. A MAFia is a little box you put between the wiring harness and the MAF to extend it's range. In my case, the tuner didn't have a better meter laying around and the only way to salvage the tuning session was to install the MAFia. And it worked. The next run he took the car up to 5800 rpm with 12psi of boost and the AFR didn't budge above 10:1. It was nice and fat and gave him something to work with!

    He said that my combo is sound now and the only reason it's not making more power is because he's got my timing locked at 18*. He said pushrod motors love timing and he'll bump it up to 21* total when I get my ACT sensor in the proper place. With the sensor before the blower and in the fender it's going to read whatever the outside air temp is instead of what the motor is really seeing, which is 200* air coming out of that blower! If the computer only sees cool intake temps from the fenderwell it won't pull timing to prevent detonation resulting in broken stuff!
  13. So I called Vortech to ask them about upgrading my SQ into a T trim and they told me they can only upgrade "heavy duty" units to the T trim.. I've never heard of anyone mentioning this fact and even on their site: they say that you can upgrade a "standard duty" unit to T trim level. He told me it's a typo. Anyone else upgrade theirs?
  14. So I put on a smaller pulley and moved my ACT sensor to the correct place in the discharge tube and only picked up a few hp/tq. It is now up to 370 hp/ 400 tq to the tires at 15 psi! Timing was being pulled down to like 13-15 degrees due to the 200* plus ACT's. He said I now have enough boost to split the block in half but I need to cool it down. So when money allows I'll put a meth kit on and go have it retuned. At that point I should be seeing 425-450 rwhp. As it stands right now thought it's really fun to drive. The boost comes on much sooner with the smaller pulley.

    In other news I was presented with a very tempting offer today. I was offered to trade my car for a 98 Cobra with 90k miles in mint condition. I thought long and hard but after coming back to this thread and reading back through myself I decided to keep my car. Sure the Cobra will probably retain it's value better than this car, but this car here has more value to ME and I suppose that's just as important. Besides, this 5.0 with the blower is a BEAST and I'm sure it'd hand a stock 98 Cobra it's ass in short order!!
  15. Man that's a lot of boost for stock heads. Congrats.
  16. I find that hard to believe. The Pro-M is a very clean design. I don't have much experience with C&L. Most of the Mustang community disregarded them in the 90s because they were notoriously innacurate and hard to tune. Everyone I know who had one swapped it for a Pro-M.

  17. It's been proven. The 75MM Bullet just doesn't flow all that well. It is a clean design and even looks great. Back in the day they also had clocking issues which I suffered from personally on my N/A application. We even put a 73 C&L we found and the car idled better and made more power on the dyno than the Bullet. I sold the Bullet after my dyno session for a Pro-M 77MM Shorty.

    Pro-M 77MM Shorty.

    5. MAF AIR FLOW DATA (In CFM) Tested 28:

    1.Stock 5.0L 58MM (89-93 Mustangs), 606 CFM
    2.Stock 5.0L 70MM (94-95 GT/Cobra Mustangs), 815 CFM
    3.Pro-M Bullet (75MM), 964 CFM
    4.Ford 80MM (Lightnings), 1017 CFM
    5.C&L 73MM, 1171 CFM
    6.Modified 80MM (Flow Bar Removed), 1368 CFM
    7.C&L 80MM, 1415 CFM
    8.Pro-M 77MM (Shorty/Supercharged Version), 1543 CFM
    9.Pro-M 77MM (Standard Version), 1562 CFM
    10.Pro-M 83MM, 1598 CFM
    11.Pro-M 80MM, 1612 CFM

    ABACO SERIES- Tested 20.4" With 10" Air
    12. DBX-85, 1052 CFM
    13. DBX-97, 1252 CFM
    14. DBX-97b, 1323 CFM
  18. I guess they have made some serious improvements to their design. Back in the old days the C&L was just a housing that you would change sample tubes on with a stock filiment in. I have had to re clock a Pro-M to make it work correctly.

  19. I just wonder if the bullet is causing my little "bucking/jerking" issue. When I'm cruising and let off the gas a little the car can't make up it's mind if it wants to make power or coast. It's hard to find that happy medium while in a light load situation. I thought it was the crappy bypass valve, but I upgraded that and still the same. I've been back to the dyno and he couldn't cure it either.