Wheels-Tires Question About Wheel Spacers And Studs

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by mob, Sep 13, 2012.

  1. Hey guys looking for some advice. I need to run a minimum of 1/4" spacers in the front and maybe even more in the rear. I got 1/8" universal spacers and on the box they say to make sure at least 1/2" threads are showing. When I put two of them on to equal 1/4" there is exactly 1/2" of thread sticking out, is that safe or will I need longer studs? Right now when turning my 9" wheels dont clear my coilovers with the 1/8" spacers.

    Now question on the rear, If I need to run longer studs I know ARP sells the 3" studs, is there anyway to get these in without removing the axle? And if not whats the easiest way to get this done? I am hoping 1/4" will be enough in the rear as well.
  2. I'm wanting to run 9 inch wide wheels all the way around and I have coil overs on the front...
    So I guess I'll be making sure to watch this thread so I can figure out what to do on my front end as well ;)
  3. Yea, I guess it depends on the offset of the wheel as well but with no spacer in the front the wheel touches the spring and cannot go on. With an 1/8" spacer it clears, but when turning it hits the spring. I am hoping with another 1/8" it will clear perfectly, really dont want to run more then that for appearance reasons.

    In the back I have 10.5's and they clear the coilovers fine, just the offset of the wheels makes them sit way inside the fender and need to be pushed out to be flush. I am thinking at least 1/2". Also really disappointed with the UPR coilovers, I put them all the way down and it looks like they sit higher than my Eibach Prokit springs did. Going to have to find a shorter spring than what they provided.
  4. I'll get shot down by someone here but I dislike wheel spacers. I'd run a spacer in the rear if I HAD to . Never in the front for me, and would NEVER stack them. Just an opinion. Could you gain some offset by doing an SN95 swap up front? 5 lug?
    And for the rear, I've heard people replaced the rear studs with long studs without pulling axles. Requires grinding some of the stud end if I remember. Here again, I pulled the axles. You also will almost certainly need to drill the axle holes larger. I used Moroso studs that were made for a Fox and they require some BS size drill bit (39/64?) that you will only buy online. And have fun without a drill press and a hydraulic press. I bought the drill bit and dropped them off at a local machine shop and let them do it. CHEAP.
  5. I really dont see the big deal in running spacers as long as there is sufficient threads... I am going to stack them just to test fit but then will order the proper size. I took the drum off in the back and it looks like the longest stud I could fit back there to pull through is 2". I see ARP sells a 2.5" stud and they say they are direct fit into 93' rotors and axles, I may go with those.

    Someone on corral said MM recommends if you have at least 6 threads showing you are good. Here's some pics of the car on the ground just for giggles. Again really disappointed with the rear UPR Coilovers, wish they would have made the sleeve longer.


  6. NHRA rules states that the thread engagement on all wheel studs to the lug nut, or lug bolts to wheel hubs, must be equivalent to, or greater than the diameter of the stud/bolt. length of the stud/bolt does NOT determine permissibility.
  7. You're talking NHRA rules though, I'm talking about what's safe for daily driving, not launching a 300hp car on a dead hook.
  8. lol....if it's safe enough to run NHRA, then it's beyond safe for running the streets. There are much more powerful cars than yours that need to adhere to that same rule. If it's good enough for a 9-second screamer on slicks, then it's good enough for your heap on street tires. :D
  9. Does anyone know if there's a difference in size between the UPR front coil overs and Granatelli coil over conversion kits? I'm hoping my Granatelli's are smaller than Mobs front UPR's so I won't have to run a huge spacer..
    And sorry Mob if I come off like I'm trying to steal your thread! I just figured I wouldn't post another thread for the same issue.

  10. That's my point, if it is NHRA safe the it is unnecessarily safe for the street. If every car off the production line had to abide by the NHRA rules our cars would look a little different. I want to know what is safe for the STREET not go all out and put 3" long studs on, with a full roll cage, drive shaft safety loop, and wear a fire suit and helmet every time I go out on the street.

    Also given this NHRA rule, it still follows what is on the box. Our studs are 1/2" diameter from factory, and the box says make sure at least 1/2" of threads are showing. With the spacer on the car there is exactly 1/2" of threads showing past the spacer without wheel or lug nuts on. So my question was is that safe, or is that pushing it
  11. It's all good, I would just look at the ID of the spring. I actually just went on QA1's website and ordered 7" springs to replace the rears, they were $43 each. The UPR kit basically copies QA1's kit so that's kind of the best way to go, but if you are looking elsewhere, the UPR springs have a 2.5" ID, so anyone spring with that ID should work, I looked on MM's website and the springs for their kit is 2.25".

    EDIT: Just saw you were talking about the front springs and wheel clearance issue. The front springs are still 2.5" ID, I am not running a UPR kit up front. Up front I am running QA1 struts with threaded bodies and QA1 springs. They are still 2.5" springs though, I guess if you went with the MM kit that uses 2.25" springs you would get a little extra clearance but it is TIGHT in there. I still don't think they will fit depending on the rim you use. A smaller ID spring will obviously not work on the UPR kit.
  12. I agree, spacers in the front tend to loosen up, i'm guessing because of the forced applied when turning all the time.

    I don't think you are putting in longer studs in the rear without pulling the axles, i switched my 3 inch studs for 2's (or 2.5's can't remember), 3's were too long for my wheels and i kept backing them out and destroying the drums i had back then.

    Doing a 96+ spindle swap for the front and sn95 rear axle setup should get you most of the space you need.
  13. The SAE/Aircraft standard for the number of threads showing beond the nut is 1.5 threads. That may help answer the question of how long the studs are supposed to be.