Questions to PI Engine swap

tomdom

New Member
Sep 12, 2019
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Germany
Hello everyone,

my engine on my 1996 GT has blown, and I´ve got a donor engine out of a 2004 GT, which I want to swap soon.
I´ve some questions about this:

1.) The coolant in the 1996 is the specification ESE M97 B44 A (Ford Premium engine coolant, green), the coolant specification for the 2004 ist the Ford Premium Gold Engine Coolant (WSS M97B51-A1). I´ve seen, that the 2004 had also a green coolant filled at the moment.
Which one should I use now after the swap ?

2.) The water pump in the 2004 is the short variant, in the 1996 it is the long variant. They have also different pulleys.
Can I stay with the 2004 water pump if I use also the 2004 pulley after I´ve changed the timing cover from the 1996 to the 2004 engine ?

3.) Does it matter, that the 2004 donor engine is out of a manual transmission vehicle, but my 1996 is an automatic ? I want to stay with automatic transmission.
The donor engine has no flywheel mounted. I would mount the flex plate from my 1996 to the 2004 engine. Will this work ?


Would be great, if anyone has an answer.

Tom
 
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1.) The coolant in the 1996 is the specification ESE M97 B44 A (Ford Premium engine coolant, green), the coolant specification for the 2004 ist the Ford Premium Gold Engine Coolant (WSS M97B51-A1). I´ve seen, that the 2004 had also a green coolant filled at the moment.
Which one should I use now after the swap ?
Let me ask you. Are you going to keep the original radiator? IMO it seems obvious to me that you should continue to use standard green coolant. This goes double has the donor motor already has green coolant as well. Don't over think this.
2.) The water pump in the 2004 is the short variant, in the 1996 it is the long variant. They have also different pulleys.

Can I stay with the 2004 water pump if I use also the 2004 pulley after I´ve changed the timing cover from the 1996 to the 2004 engine ?
The water pump used is going to need to match the timing cover. I suspect it will be obvious WHY it matters as the water pump pulley won't line up with the crank and other pulleys.
3.) Does it matter, that the 2004 donor engine is out of a manual transmission vehicle, but my 1996 is an automatic ? I want to stay with automatic transmission.
The donor engine has no flywheel mounted. I would mount the flex plate from my 1996 to the 2004 engine. Will this work ?
Yes. Both Romeo motor have 6 bolt cranks. Simply swap the flywheel with a flex plate. It will be necessary to remove the pilot bearing from the donor manual motor.
 
Thank you for answering so fastly.

Yes, I want to keep the original 1996 radiator and hoses. So I think I will fill in the green coolant.
I hope that the gaskets in the 2004 block will work also with the green one.

For the water pump I will bolt the old one in the new block, and take also the old pulley.
Is it also necessary then to take the old harmonic balancer over to the 2004 block ?

I´ve taken a look to my donor engine after reading your response and saw the pilot bearing of the manual tranny ist still inside.
Is all I have to do removing the bearing ? Do I need another bearing instead of the pilot bearing or just remove it ?
Do I need a special puller for removing it ?
 
An automatic transmission does NOT use a pilot bearing. Why? Because the flex plate always turns at the same speed as the crank. IF you were to leave a pilot bearing in place this would prevent the flex plate from mating to the crank. Look at the center part of the flex plate and you will see how it's supposed to mate to the crank.

Many auto parts stores will rent a pilot bearing puller and slide hammer. Or use the "old school" grease, paper towel, and bolt trick.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28bSl4r1kwQ


If you mix and match different size pulleys it seems possible that any standard length belt may not work. It seems to me that the smart play is to use one or the other set up.
 
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Hi everybody !

The engine swap is done now. The swap was done by a shop, because I had not enough space in my garage. The engine stars, the car is running, but I have some engine vibration now, when the car is idling. Also I think the power could be a little bit better.

I did the following tests:

1.) Testing the injectors with a stethoscope. The clicking can be heard at all 8 injectors. At some injectors a little bit louder, at some a little bit less loud. Also I made a measuring of the resistance of the injectors by an Ohmmeter. They had all 15 V +/- 0.4 Volts.

2.) I pulled all wiring plugs and put them on again. Also I measured the resistance of all wires with the following numbers (Cyl Nr./ kOhms) (1/5.7 - 2/12.8 - 3/8.3 - 4/21 - 5/8.8 - 6/10.3 - 7/7.7 - 8/11.6)

3.) I did also not find a missing vacuum line.

If I turn on the A/C, the vibration is getting a little bit lower.

I also did leave the 2004 spark plugs in the engine. Is that right ? Or should I use the 1996 spark plugs.

Does anybody have an advice for me ?
 
No check engine lights. Also no trouble codes from obd2 scan tool.
The vibration is always there, maybe sometimes a little bit more or less.
I used the old engine mounts from the 2004 engine.
 
Sounds like you have a small misfire. Could be injectors not working properly, spark plug missing fire or failing coils. I'd do a tune up see if it helps. New spark plugs and coils. Injectors probably need a good cleaning. That's what I'd do. At least you wont have to worry about it for awhile.
 
Engine has 80.000 mls. Which spark plugs should I use ? The ones for the 1996 NPI model, or the ones for the 2004 PI model ? I think they are different.
Which tune/ programmer tool is good for my system ?
The power also isn't much better then on my NPI, when it worked correct 2 years ago.
 
Spark plugs dont make that much of a difference. I'd stick with the recommended gap for the current motor your using. I'd replace the coils at the same time. If you know somebody I'd have a compression check done since the plugs will be removed. Its not hard and you can purchase what you need to do a compression check yourself instead of paying someone else. There should be a noticable difference in power from the previous motor to the motor you have now. If I'm not mistaken your going from 190 hp to 260 hp on the new motor.
 
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Compression check is done. The numbers are between 11.5 and 12.5 bar. Maximum difference is 8.7 %. That should be ok.
Spark plugs, coil packs and spark plug wires are ordered.
I also think there's a little exhaust leak at the connection from the left header to the catted H-pipe.
 
Let us know once you get the new spark plugs, coils and harness replaced. I'd say you will be surprised at the difference. You probably had 1 cylinder misfiring or maybe a couple. You should notice a nice difference in performance and how she runs. I'd still consider getting those injectors cleaned or replaced. If replacing only only stick with ford performance injectors. Trust me on that one. I'd go with an SCT programmer if you plan on purchasing one. Keep us updated.