race bypass valve

[ADRENLN]

hey guys, as some of you know im looking to get my build started by the end of the month if money permits me to. just have to get the money up for labor at this point.

ok, so i was talking to my builder/tuner. he stated that i could use the stock novi 2000 bypass valve. he seemed to think it it would work with out any buckin or anything like that.

i am going to run the 3.0 pully on an 8 rib set up. i dont know what boost its going to mak since i will lose some through the intercooler and other parts. tuner thinks i wont loose that much. anyway we both expect decent hp out of the set up.

anyway, do you think the stock bypass will do the job? i was under the impression that it wouldne wok well enough.

 

[SaleenGT2001]

i would run a mini race BPV. the stock one may work but thats a lot of air to be pushing thru it.

 

[urban96]

with an intercooler i would upgrade the bypass or add a second one

 

[showstopper2]

I would go straight for the ATI race bypass over the vortech pieces anyday. my little P1-2 is pushing enough boost that I was overwhelming the stock bypass causing driving issues.. put on the race ATI piece and now the car drives perfect and actually makes boost sooner since it closes before I hit 0 on the vacuum gauge.

 

[ADRENLN]

what boost level do you need the better bypass at? about?

i think i might only make around 13psi with the 3.0 pully after losses. im just guessing though.

also whats the ati piece cost? is it better quality?.....any pics of it?

thanks

 

[SaleenGT2001]

i think ATI stuff is for blow thru meters b/c it vents to the atmosphere.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

HKS makes a nice racing bypass that is adjustable etc.

 

[1BadAzzGT]

As someone has stated you might consider doing a bypass before the IC and after the IC. I recommend the Bosch 114 bypass valves.

 

[ADRENLN]

so all you guys think i will need one. however, you all recommend something different. i dont think there is a point in useing 2, if i was going to do that i would just get one mini race one or something. 1 strong enough to handle the boost on its own.

is there a benifit to useing 2 seperate ones? is it cheaper or something?

i just cant figure out my my builder thinks i wont need this.

 

[1BadAzzGT]

so all you guys think i will need one. however, you all recommend something different. i dont think there is a point in useing 2, if i was going to do that i would just get one mini race one or something. 1 strong enough to handle the boost on its own.

is there a benifit to useing 2 seperate ones? is it cheaper or something?

i just cant figure out my my builder thinks i wont need this.

Yes there is a HUGE benefit in using 2 bypass's. Why? Driveability. With one, you might suffer from too much surging and bucking. Hope that helps.

If you run one HUGE bypass, however, you'll be fine. What is huge? Something like the vortech mondo, the ATI race bypass, etc.

Cheers!

 

[showstopper2]

i think ATI stuff is for blow thru meters b/c it vents to the atmosphere.

their race bypass is sold as a bypass and a blowoff.. you specify which one you want depending on recirculating or blowing off. I recirculate mine so its a bit quieter than the straight blowoff. it set me back $350 but it was money that was soo well spent since my driveability got better and blower surge is a thing of the past now.. my stock bypass sounded like a duck caller after a high rpm run and the motor would shake violently in the cradle at the same time.. belt shredding was also an issue that this cured along with the two other things I mentioned..

 

[BennyBlown2v]

their race bypass is sold as a bypass and a blowoff.. you specify which one you want depending on recirculating or blowing off. I recirculate mine so its a bit quieter than the straight blowoff. it set me back $350 but it was money that was soo well spent since my driveability got better and blower surge is a thing of the past now.. my stock bypass sounded like a duck caller after a high rpm run and the motor would shake violently in the cradle at the same time.. belt shredding was also an issue that this cured along with the two other things I mentioned..

Post up a pic of your bypass setup plz!

 

[showstopper2]

I don't have a pic on my computer of it but the race bypass bung was welded in where the stock bung used to be in the procharger piping. the stock bung was cut off and then the hole was opened up to match the Race bypass' mounting bung. same thing on the powerpipe side. cut off the factory sized and welded on a piece of 2 inch exhaust pipe to fit the race bypass' hose.

basically what Im saying is that my bypass setup is all in the same location it was with the stock bypass. mounted before the intercooler and fed back to the powerpipe.

 

[SaleenGT2001]

i have a Tial 50mm BOV on mine. it is just after the IC on the pass side, right by the little vents in the saleen bumper. i have noticed the drivability is worse than my mini race but the sound is just amazing

how does a BOV affect belt shredding? i have to replace my belt about every 500miles.

 

[showstopper2]

i have a Tial 50mm BOV on mine. it is just after the IC on the pass side, right by the little vents in the saleen bumper. i have noticed the drivability is worse than my mini race but the sound is just amazing

how does a BOV affect belt shredding? i have to replace my belt about every 500miles.

if your replacing a belt every 500 miles you must have an alignment issue of some kind. for me belt shredding happened after hard runs through all 4 gears or any bounce off the rev limiter during a burnout. the stock bypass would just get overwhelmed and the result was a violent shake in the motor and the belt would jump a rib and then start to shred. had this happen 3 times before I swapped to the race bypass and now belts last until I decide to change them. true test coming as I will be shifting at 6500rpms with my new forged motor and the blower should be pushing upwards of 18lbs or better. this was the reason I went with the big bypass in the first place knowing this all would come soon enough.