Rack n pinion/Power steering pump

[txstang347]

The two inner tie rod ends are usually what wears out, and at $45 each, it's better to get a replacement rack assembly since they are part of the package. The rack is about $100 + a $40 refundable core charge, which you get back when you return the old rack. Be sure to ask for the GT or high performance rack, it has fewer turns lock to lock than the standard rack.

The flex coupling for the steering shaft needs to be disconnected before you can get the rack out. You should disassemble the coupling by undoing the 2 bolts that hold it together. The lower part of the coupling will then come out with the rack, and can easily be removed.

The tie rod ends can be removed with a tool that looks like a giant "pickle fork", it's less than $8, or some stores will rent/loan one. Remove the cotter pin & nut on the tie end, stick the tool between the rod end and the arm it connects and hammer away. The bigger the hammer, the easier it comes apart.

Remove the two bolts that bolt the rack assembly to the frame and then pull the rack down. Get a catch pan to dump the fluid in when you disconnect the hydraulic lines. I replaced the rack mount bushings with some Energy Suspension urethane ones. When you re-install the rack assembly, put the rear bushings in the rack assembly and lift it into place. Then install the front bushings & washers and tighten down the nuts. Doing it this way makes room for the hydraulic lines without having them bind against the frame.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive.

Buy several extra quarts of fluid to run through the system to flush it when you change the rack. The car needs to be up on jackstands for the next step. Fill the pump up, start the car, and turn the wheels lock to lock to bleed the air out. Then stop the engine, disconnect the low pressure hose (the one that is secured with a hose clamp) and drain the pump. Re-connect, refill and do it several more times or until the fluid looks clear and not burnt or black.

So this looked pretty easy and straight forward, but I couldn't get the jam nut loose to free the Rack. I assumed that I should be loosening it clockwise because it should be going toward the rack or engine and away from me or the brake assembly. I couldn't get it to budge after tons of DW-40, so I tried clockwise and counter clockwise to see if I could break it loose, no dice. Looks like the previous owner had trouble with it in the past too because the driver's side jam nut was a bit rounded. Any tips on how to break these loose?

Should I just buy the tie rod ends at the parts store and assemble the entire piece (about $70 for the pair). I would rather not buy them but I figure it's cheaper than giving a mechanic a go at it and charging me for the instal to basically loosen a nut! If I went this route what would be the issues with alignment and the position of the jam nut?

I hate using pullers for pressure fitted parts like the power steering pump pulley because they never seem to fit the same after I put them back on so I was just going to let the shop do this. I don't have a puller so I'd need to buy one. Any thoughts/tips on this?

Joe

P.S. Thanks to "jrichker" for all the info on trouble shooting a no start/no fuel problem. Went down the check list and it turned out to finally be the computer. She runs now but the PS pump has a old slow leak and the steering is loose.

 

[jrichker]

Look closely at the theads on the tie rod. You may find that one thread is a LH thread and loosens the opposite way.
That would very easily account for one of the nuts being slightly rounded off if someone overlooked this detail.

Apply some heat with a propane torch to the jam nut. Then take a thick rag soaked in a bucket of ice cubes and water and wrap it around the threaded shaft. The hot nut will expand and the cold shaft will contract. Then you can loosen the jam nut. You will have to work fast, because the nut will cool and the shaft will soak up the heat from the nut.

Hammering on the flats of the nut will also help to shake it loose. An air hammer used on a medium setting is ideal for this type of work. Be sure to place a extra heavy hammer on the nut opposite the side you are hammering on. This will brace everything so that the vibration gets into the threaded joint and doesn't bend anything.

 

[RYC CUKR]

fwiw I found that a 22mm open end wrench fits the jam nuts perfectly. I just got done putting a new rack in my 88.