Rack & Pinion Question

The rack's internal stops are not adjustable and provide positive stops directly at the rack gear. It does not continue to load the tie rods and balljoints such as when hitting the factory strut rod stops. If desired the strut rod to steering arm stops could still be modified to limit/reduce centerlink travel for wheel clearance issues.

Shortening the steering arm also increases the amount of force required by the rack to turn the wheels. The new outer tie rod position may also introduce some bumpsteer and ackermann steering issues unless compensated for with the inner tie rod.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


Randall's rack also has internal non-adjustable stops

In fact, I think they all do. There just isn't enough room across the chassis, to install a rack long enough to give full lock to lock steering.
With the front end off the ground, at full suspension travel, I hit the stops on the strut rods, in both directions. At ride height, I am about 3/8" away from hitting the stops, both directions.

One other note about moving the tie rod ends in, is that this increases the steering ratio, which is all ready pretty quick.

Scott
 
66Runt said:
In fact, I think they all do. There just isn't enough room across the chassis, to install a rack long enough to give full lock to lock steering.
With the front end off the ground, at full suspension travel, I hit the stops on the strut rods, in both directions. At ride height, I am about 3/8" away from hitting the stops, both directions.

One other note about moving the tie rod ends in, is that this increases the steering ratio, which is all ready pretty quick.

Scott

Sure there is. It depends upon the design. I have a rack in hand that upon initial measurements and testing looks like it is going to provide full lock to lock steering with stock spindles and has more travel than needed with Granada spindles. I need to do some more comprehensive testing but it is looking really good. The design is going to be a little unconventional and I have a lot of things to test but I will get this to work with some time. Unfortunately I have a huge prject that is going to consume the next two months so I have to wait to do further work on this project.
 
66Runt said:
What is the rack out of? What kind of mods are you going to need to do to make it work?

I will share it all after I have made it work. I am not going to speculate on anything until I have something that works to show you. I am confident that I can make this work in one fashion or another it is just a matter of putting time into it. This is not something that can be done at home. The pieces will need to be made at a machine/fabricating shop which I have complete access to. I want this to work and be safe before I get anyone too excited but you guys will be the first to see it when done and functioning.

I am currently building a Griggs GR-350 car for the track and this project has to be completed by mid August so I can deliver it to California. I will not get back on the rack until this car is gone so be patient and as soon as I have something I will be more than happy to show you.
 
Measurements

Randall's Rack:

6.375" lock to lock against internal rack stops.
Steering wheel is 40 degrees short of three full turns.
2.2" rack travel per turn.
Turning radius 43' (same as extended cab Ranger).

Scott
 
headgrinder said:
I have finally gotten all my problems with steeroids rack fixed.
1 Bind from ujoints angle is too steep causes binding I made my own firewall plate with more offset of hole that column passses thru this lessened angle and now steering wheel turns smoothly.

2 Center bolt kept loosening up and too much propeller effect of center link/bracket. I borrowed reman j car rack from my old parts store dissasembled and noted that bushing that slides in rack was worn out allowing lots of up/down play. I had a new bushing made of delron? with longer bearing surface and tighter fit in rack. then I had sleeves made to capture stand offs from bracket

3 mounting bracket on drivers side flexes. Took a new bracket that steeroids sent me and beefed it up with more mountin bolts using 3 of old steering boxbolt holes( all existing no new holes drilled) I have pics but they are too big to post.
If interested I can email them.


Now it works like it should Randy at steeroids was lots of help and very interesed in getting rack install right.
I would like to see the pictures because I have the same problem with my rack. Thanks. Please email ti [email protected]. Thanks