Radiator Question

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by foureyefox347, Nov 18, 2013.

  1. so my car will get warm in stop in go traffic i have a 160 thermostat new water pump ele fan factory radiator 1 core so is there a bigger radiator to get out of like a bronco, f150 etc. that bolts right up 2 core or 3 core, i know there are aftermarket alum. radiators mishimoto, frp, etc. but before i spend 300 to 400 dollars on a radiator i want to know my options
  2. I would start by replacing the stat to a 180 to keep the car more in the recommended operating range. Also assuming you still have the stock fan, make sure the clutch fan is operating properly and that the system (meaning cooling system) is free from air. These cars will cool fine with a stock radiator for the most part. Maybe even spend 35$ and drop it off at a rad shop to have them flush and clean it really good for you.

    What is your definition of warm?
  3. Another side note, is the air deflector under the car still attached to the lower rad support? It is designed to force air up and through the radiator.
  4. when i have an elec. fan and the cooler u keep the car the more power it makes so im not going to put a 180 back in and no i don't have to air deflector on my car but i wouldn't think that would matter if im in stop in go traffic there no air flow cuz u go 25 and stop and my definition of warm is it go to 190 that is it but with a 160 stat u wouldn't think it would get that high it has no problem idling stays at 160 no problem cruising but only when ur in stop in go driving the temp gos up that high plus ik this winter im heat rapping my headers so ik that will help

  5. You just joined, come here for help- and with that attitude I wouldn't expect any help from people, including me. I was going to try and help but after reading that snarky response, I'm not inclined to waste my time, seeing you have all the answers.

    Besides, I have a headache from trying to decipher your post to English.
    #5 mikestang63, Nov 18, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2013
  6. im wasnt trying to give additude if that how it came off sry
  7. Glad he knows it all already as well, I can't agree more with you Mike. What do I know anyway?
  8. well i said sry i wasnt trying to have attitude i all said is i didnt want to put the 180 temp stat back in
  9. In my opinion and for what it's worth I think you need that 180 stat. Does the car have a custom tune in it? The fuel and spark tables are designed to work differently at different temperatures and at 160 you are not at your peak efficiency as far as the factory timing and fuel maps go. Secondly I would be happy with a car that stayed at 190 in traffic, that's not bad at all. I know you said the problem was sitting in stop and go but I also do recommend the air deflector separately from your current issue.
  10. You NEED the 180 thermostat. Small block fords love to run a little on the warm side and love to have some back pressure on the exhaust. That being said, I would flush the entire cooling system (heater core included), 180 degree thermostat, new cap, and go from there. Once you do that then you should have a better idea on what's going on. Oh, wait, someone already suggested all of that.
    84Ttop likes this.
  11. so u do think that air defector would make a big difference and im guessing the junkyard the only place for that? im carb i self tuned it right now with 13.7 afr
  12. The air deflector is a must have for me, I'm not sure if LMR sells one, I would think so. The junk yard should be an easy find for that too since every mustang, 4cyl or V8 had the same deflector.

    Even given that your car is carb'd I would like to see it operate in the 180-190 range. I typically like to enter the burnout box with mine around 150 and I'm usually right at 180 lining up. I won't run my car cold in general.

    13.7 is WOT or cruising? How much total timing? Cylinder heads? Just curious, that's all..
  13. 13.7 is cruising wot is 14.1 total timing is about 30 self port gt40p head i ported them a lot like i was nervous put them on i didnt know if i went to far lol but i have the timing a little low and the afr arent perfect but i just got it set to drive till i go get it tune and im spraying a 100 shot with the tune
  14. i didn't get them flow tested so idk wat there at but gt40p are 145cc intake runners and i ported the intake port to the gasket smoothed out the valve guides and got rid of the sharp ridges on the bowls and did the same for my exhaust side and lapped all the valves so im not sure wat they flow
  15. I wouldn't be afraid to take the timing up a few more degrees n/a On spray 100 shot I would probably start at 26 degrees total and would like to see your a/f 11.8 or 12.0. I would be checking the plugs after your first pull with the spray as well and adjust according to your results.
  16. Ok so u think I should just tune it my self when I spray it then cuz the speed shop around here will let me use there dyno for 90 an hour and are say u would want to see the afrs in 11.8 or 12.0 na to or just spraying
  17. And for the timing is the reason I didnt want to tune it my self but is the like way to know when u have to much timing
  18. Im not to worryed about spray till summer but wat is the coldest plug to run cuz right now I have motorcraft copper plug
  19. I would like a/f in the 11.8-12.0 on spray just for the safety of your motor. As far as timing goes, this takes a little experience and you would need to know how to read a spark plug. There is a mark left on the strap that indicates where the timing is while the engine is running. Also you need to look for detonation which would show as piston material on the porcelain of your plugs. Honestly it might not be a bad Idea to let them tune it and ask to participate in the process to learn it. I'm not sure about part numbers with the gt40 heads as far as plugs go, i'll have to defer.