Radiator Question

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by foureyefox347, Nov 18, 2013.

  1. In general, you can run more timing on an iron than alum head. Use the same plugs as the E7's unless you have P heads as they require a different plug. For Nitrous, go at least 1 step colder and check the plugs for signs of detonation. If memory serves me right- ASF32-C for the GT40 is one step colder than stock ASF42-C.

    For most N/A, you are in the 12.5- 13 range. For a nitrous car 11.5-12. 14:1 IMO is too lean for a nitrous car. You can run rich all day long, but lean once. Lean + Nitrous + detonation= BOOM
    #21 mikestang63, Nov 18, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2013
  2. so this is my street car so would u recommend just changing jet every time i go to the track or is there a set afr i can just set it at and drive it. just every time i want to spray it change the timing to were it gets tuned at
  3. i love how it went from talking about radiators to how to tune my nitrous set up lmao
  4. You would have an na tuneup in the car all the time. When you go to spray you would set the timing back and away you go. You need a wet nitrous kit as the extra fuel needed will come from the nitrous kit not a carb jet change.

    You Hijacked your own thread, classy lol
    Grabbin' Asphalt likes this.
  5. sooooooooo about that Boost....

    tap it into the radiator and get some serious cooling when ya need it:nice:
  6. Yea I have the wet kit carb plate I just need to buy 2 more an fitting to go on my dual feed line to finsh the install
  7. On a serious note, ...the advice already given is the way to go. However if you have a 160* installed and its running warmer than normal stats you most likey have air pockets all in the system. With a 160* its in open loop heaven with the computer, .....which is not good btw.
  8. It has a carpotato silly goose, no computer :p
  9. ha ha ....wordizzlemynizzle :rlaugh: