Ram Air - Myth or Truth?

300bhp/ton

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Apr 4, 2005
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Marketers just can't resist it. Ram air! The words themselves summon up images of rushing wild beasts, or of secret military aircraft operating on futuristic principles.

Unfortunately, on most perofrmance cars, ram-air is as functional as tail fins were on cars of the ’60s.

What is it? Ram air just means using a forward-facing air intake to gain some extra intake pressure. We have all, as children, felt the pressure of moving air on our hands when we held them out the window of the family car. When moving air is brought smoothly to rest, the energy of its motion is converted into pressure. Motorcycles went through a "ram-air" period in the early 1990s, during which street bikes were equipped with the forward-facing "rocket-launcher" engine air intakes seen on many road-racing machines.

While it's appealing to imagine the forward velocity of a car being converted into free supercharge, the actual air pressure gain is extremely small at normal speeds. For example, at 150 mph, the pressure gain when air is efficiently brought to rest is 2.75 percent. Because this is a dynamic effect, it is proportional to the square of the air velocity. At a more realizable automobile speed of 75 mph, the effect (again with 100 percent efficient conversion of velocity into pressure) will be only one-quarter as great — that is, just under seven-tenths of one percent.

In fact, velocity energy is not converted into pressure at 100 percent efficiency. A figure of 75 percent efficiency is usual, which reduces our notional ram-air gain at 75 mph to one-half of one percent.

Therefore, at normal speeds, ram air is a myth. However, something much more interesting lies behind it, ignored by the advertiser's busy pen. That something is airbox resonance.

In order to implement ram air, the carburetors or throttle-bodies of our engine must seal to an airbox whose volume is large enough that the intake cycle of one cylinder cannot pull its internal pressure down significantly. Box volume is typically 10-20 times the engine's displacement. Then the forward-facing air intake is connected to the box. When this assembly is tested on the dyno — even without an external fan to simulate the high-speed rush of air past the intake — it is discovered that the engine's torque curve is greatly altered, with new peaks and hollows.

Why? The answer is airbox resonance. If you hold the mouth of an empty bottle near your open mouth as you loudly hum scales, you find that at certain “hum frequencies” the bottle reinforces your humming, which becomes louder. What is happening is that the springy compressibility of the air in the bottle is bouncing the slug of air in the bottle's neck back and forth at a particular frequency — higher if the bottle is small, lower if it is larger. Your humming is driving a rapid plus-and-minus variation of the air pressure inside the bottle.

The same thing happens inside a resonant airbox. The volume of air in the box is the “spring” in this kind of oscillator. The mass of air in the box's intake pipe is what oscillates. The “humming” that drives the oscillation is the rapid succession of suction pulses at the carb or throttle-body intakes. If the volume of the airbox and the dimensions of the intake pipe(s) are correctly chosen, the airbox can be made to resonate very strongly, in step with the engine's suction pulses. The result, when this is done correctly, is that the engine takes air from the box only during the high-pressure part of its cycle, while the box refills from atmosphere through its intake between engine suction pulses. This produces a useful gain in torque.

Using this idea, motorcycle engines have been able to realize torque increases, in particular speed ranges, of 10-15 percent. In race engines, it is usual to tune the airbox to resonate at peak-power rpm to increase top speed. For production engines, it is often more useful to tune the box resonance to fill in what would otherwise be a flat-spot in the torque curve, resulting in smoother power and improved acceleration.

Early resonant airbox systems used long intake pipes that terminated in forward-facing intakes. More recent designs do not connect the ram-air pipe to the box at all, but terminate it near the airbox entry. The actual entry pipe is a short piece of tubing with bellmouths on both ends. This is done because (a) the potential gain from actual ram air is too small to worry about, and (b) it's easier to tune the airbox with a short tube.

Where vehicle speeds are very high, gains from ram air are significant. This was discovered by Rolls-Royce in the late 1920s as the company developed its R Schneider Trophy air racing engine. At speeds above 300 mph, it was noticed that the R’s fuel mixture leaned out enough to cause backfiring. When the mixture was corrected for ram-air pressure gain, the engineers realized they had a "free" source of power. At 350 mph the gain from ram air is almost 15 percent. Similar mixture correction is necessary when ram air is used on drag-race and Bonneville cars and bikes.

Intuition suggests that a forward-facing intake made in the form of a funnel, large end foremost, should somehow multiply the pressure of the air, resulting in a much larger pressure gain at the small end. Sadly, intuition is wrong. In order to convert velocity energy into pressure, the air has to be slowed down, and this requires a duct that widens rather than narrows. Next time you fly on a commercial airliner, note that its engine intakes widen as the airflow approaches the compressor face. Such widening passages are called diffusers, and they are universally used in the conversion of velocity into pressure.

Language often plays tricks on us — especially when language is used by product advertisers. "Ram air" sounds much more appealing than "resonant airbox." Nevertheless, it is airbox resonance that actually generates a significant power gain.

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Cliffnotes:

-Ram Air a myth? = NO
-Does it work on a road car = NO
-At 150mhp there is next to no gain.
-Significant gains arn't seen until 300mph+
-The air box is the key, not the ducting.
-When buying a CAI/induction kit look for the one that uses air box resonance



Edit: Additional Reading

Intake temperature is a whole different ball game.

The simple rule is:

'Cool for power (maximum charge density), hot for economy (minimum charge density to reduce losses due to throttling).'

Although in many cars the under bonnent temperatures are no where near as bad as many people beleive. This refers to a 5.3 liter Jguar XJS V12. So a big engine in a small engine bay.

The under-bonnet air temperature at idle can easily get up around 70 C but the faster the car goes the lower the air temperature falls - simply because the radiator is passing its heat to a much larger quantity of air per second - so at 80 mph. the engine is breathing air at around 45 C. That's still a bit higher than the ideal but not nearly so bad as many people think. Obviously the standard arrangement helps to maximise economy in moderate speed urban cruise without compromising top end power too much.

In setups that duct cool air from outside. The power gains from such a system are almost certainly attributed to the filter, and less restritive intake (meaning quite simply a bigger opening), and a form of air box resonance coupled with a 'cool air intake' from outside the engine bay. Sadly even at very high speeds (well over 100mph) I doubt that it has any form of 'Ram Air' effect. If you reconfigured the system to take air from the inside of a wheel arch it would produce the same results as having the intake ducts at the front of the car. The source of the air, not the location of the ducts is the important factor.

Remember the only way to get a greater volume of air into the engine is to compress it. This is what turbo and superchargers do. An air intake scoop either on the front of a car or on the bonnet will not compress the air at any speed most people are likely to travel at.

Taking the airbox resonance theory futher with the intake manifold itself by optimising the length and entry profile into each of the tracts to better exploit induced harmonic resonances in the air as it flows towards the cylinder. Any tube containing air can be made to resonate at certain critical frequencies in the manner of an organ pipe. Such is the case with the inlet tracts of an engine and if the natural resonance frequencies can be matched to the engine speed then a mild supercharging effect can be induced. Get it wrong and the reverse will apply, resulting in a loss of performance.
 
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I had one of those bikes back in the 90s. One of the mags did a test to prove if the ram air worked. If I remember at the low speeds there was no effect, but up around 80-90 mph you started to see small HP gains and at topspeed (+150)you got around 3-4 HP gain.
 
300bhp/ton said:
Unfortunately, on most perofrmance cars, ram-air is as functional as tail fins were on cars of the ’60s.

Unfortunately, you missed the entire purpose. :rolleyes:

Ram Air works great, especially in cars of the 60's. :nice:

Ram Air is, was, basically a cold air injection system. Remember those snorkels sticking off those round air cleaners? Back in the 60's, cars got all their air from under the hood. Air that first went through the radiator and got heated, and then blew over the hot engine block and, guess what, got heated even more.

Ram Air was the way around that on that on "perofrmance" cars. It allowed the engine to "breath" nice outside, cool, dense air. Not that heated stuff.
 
GT-03 said:
Unfortunately, you missed the entire purpose. :rolleyes:

Ram Air works great, especially in cars of the 60's. :nice:

Ram Air is, was, basically a cold air injection system. Remember those snorkels sticking off those round air cleaners? Back in the 60's, cars got all their air from under the hood. Air that first went through the radiator and got heated, and then blew over the hot engine block and, guess what, got heated even more.

Ram Air was the way around that on that on "perofrmance" cars. It allowed the engine to "breath" nice outside, cool, dense air. Not that heated stuff.
try reading the article. Intake temperature has NOTHING to do with ram air, its like talking about spark plugs in connection with a diesel engine (for any that don't know, diesel don't have spark plugs, hence they have no relevance when talking about them). If you want more info PM me and I'll try and expand on it futher.
 
300bhp/ton said:
try reading the article. Intake temperature has NOTHING to do with ram air, its like talking about spark plugs in connection with a diesel engine (for any that don't know, diesel don't have spark plugs, hence they have no relevance when talking about them). If you want more info PM me and I'll try and expand on it futher.

I did read the article. That is why I posted a counter-point.

That article is just a lot "snake oil". :notnice:
 
Speaking about cold air induction, has anyone ever tried to route their AC to their intake where the CAI sits so that a big gust of cold air is always being mixed in? That would be funny to see, but not sure how well it would work.
 
Are we that devoid of actual tech realting to the 05 Mustang that we are posting copies of articles to spark some lame debate? Are there even "ram air" kits for the 05 Mustang?
 
SpazHairlip said:
Speaking about cold air induction, has anyone ever tried to route their AC to their intake where the CAI sits so that a big gust of cold air is always being mixed in? That would be funny to see, but not sure how well it would work.
As a basic theory this sounds like a great idea, but I think there are two potential pitfalls.

1. The quantity of air required when at WOT (wide open throttle) a regular a/c pump would be unlikely to be able to cool enough air quick enough.

2. The loss of power from the engine to run such a device. Even a regular a/c unit can sap 10-20bhp from an engine. The likely net gains would be very low, or maybe even cause your engine to produce less power.


However I'm sure there are some clever people out there that have got new and inventive ways of approaching this.
 
didnt we go over this when you posted a link to the LS1 forums, where the F-body guys were fighting over if it works or not, then got into a "my car is prettier than your car" fight......
 
Thanks 300bhp/ton. You are correct of course, and it was well written and presented. There is a lot of performance folklore that people accept as true only because they've heard it repeated many times. I think it's a valuable service to try to dispel these myths.

Owner1
 
GT-03 said:
Unfortunately, you missed the entire purpose. :rolleyes:

Ram Air works great, especially in cars of the 60's. :nice:

Ram Air is, was, basically a cold air injection system. Remember those snorkels sticking off those round air cleaners? Back in the 60's, cars got all their air from under the hood. Air that first went through the radiator and got heated, and then blew over the hot engine block and, guess what, got heated even more.

Ram Air was the way around that on that on "perofrmance" cars. It allowed the engine to "breath" nice outside, cool, dense air. Not that heated stuff.

I owned one of the cars from the 60s, Ram Air is a myth for the basic street car even those from the 60s and any other generation for that matter. You are confusing RAM AIR with COLD AIR INDUCTION. Cold Air Induction has to do with temperature as Ram Air has to do with pressure, there is quite a big difference.

-Dan
 
A motor is really an air pump. The idea is to get as much air in and out as quickly as possible. However, stock motors actually do not take in as much air as their displacement indicates. This air comes into the motor under vacuum and is assisted by the weight of the atmosphere pressing down (barometric pressure). This process is not very efficient. This ratio of actual air entering the motor versus the actual displacement of the motor is called volumetric efficiency V.E.

A typical stock fuel injected motor is rated at about 85 % V.E. This means that out of the 350 cubic inches of air your motor could theoretically take in, only 85 % of that volume enters the cylinders. This translates to about 294 cubic inches of air. Some all out race motors can reach near 100 % V.E. and supercharged or turbocharged motors actually exceed 100 % by forcing the air into the motor. Not everyone can afford a supercharger but there is definitely room for improvement for the stock motor if you make it easier for it to get air into the motor for combustion. This is what ram air does.

As speed increases, the air entering through the sealed ram air kit actually becomes pressurized. This positive pressure helps to fill the cylinders more efficiency and raises the V.E. of the motor. As the V.E. increases, the motor becomes more efficient and produces more HP and also gives you better fuel economy. You will also find your throttle response dramatically improved. The motor is working less hard to fill the cylinder and is greatly assisted by the high pressure air. The faster your go, the greater the pressurization effect. This is similar to a mild supercharging effect.

The second benefit of a ram air system is that is supplies the engine with colder air than what it would normally breathe. Colder is more dense and contains more oxygen for the combustion process. For every 10 degree drop in intake air temperature, you can expect 1 % more HP. The ram air kit supplies cold air from the bottom of the car which is forced into the sealed air canister. Unlike the stock system, the ram air kit does not let the motor breathe superheated air from the engine bay. Additionally, the computer detects this colder air and adds additional ignition timing. This makes more HP!

You dont believe dont use it. You want the last oz of hp, it works.
 
Guys,

Allow me to throw "water" on this fire...

My question about ram air intakes has always been "what the heck happens to all the WATER that gets sucked into the intake and combustion chambers when you drive through a gulley-washer rain storm?????"

Does it just get burned with the air/fuel mixture? If so, doesn't that screw things up somehow?

Makes you want to say "Hhhhmmm?"
 
MLC Stang said:
Guys,

Allow me to throw "water" on this fire...

My question about ram air intakes has always been "what the heck happens to all the WATER that gets sucked into the intake and combustion chambers when you drive through a gulley-washer rain storm?????"

Does it just get burned with the air/fuel mixture? If so, doesn't that screw things up somehow?

Makes you want to say "Hhhhmmm?"
small amounts of water or spray will not be a big issue as it will just get atomised/vapourised and exit via the exhaust.

World War II planes used to use water injection at high altitude.

If you have a sealed intake system with low air intakes then the worst case is pretty bad. An internal combustion engine is a bit like a big air pump, it sucks in air and ignites it to produce motion and exhales the gases thru the exhaust.

If there is only water to suck in then it will, but water can not be compressed the same as a gas and will not ignite, this will cause a hyro lock and reck the engine.

I had a friend who experianced this. A few years back (1997/8) we had bad flooding here in Britain. My mate had a Ford Sierra XR4x4. Basically a hotish saloon. If was 4wd and used the Cologne 2.9 V6 (current incarnation of this engine is found in the 4.0 V6 Mustang I believe).

He drove thru some deep water and submerged the air intake, the engine effectivly fill up with water resulting in hydro lock. It ripped the gudgen pin out of the bottom of the cylinder and sent the con rod thru the side of the block. - Pretty bad and expensive to fix.

Of course if you have a higher intake or a bonnet scoop it is unlikely to cause any real issues, as you'd have to park it in a lake to get enough water into the engine.
 
I think you guys have missed the point. Horsepower, shmoshpower, Ram Air hoods (especially those Shakers) are just tooooooooo cool. I DRIVE my car. I don't run it flat out at Bonneville every time I start it. Let's face it, if speed was all that I cared about I'd have bought a Neon and spent the rest of my money hopping that sucker up to 1000HP per ton. We are all in an '05 (at least a little) because of "cool factor".