Engine Random cut out

[ccgt]

I've got an 89 SSP with 114k miles on it that I bought about 2 months ago. The car is stock except full exhaust and drop in air filter and 04 cobra T56, all done by the previous owner.
The issue I am having is a random engine cut out while under load at part throttle. Basically while accelerating or cruising under load at part throttle, it will drop hard as if a quick step off of the accelerator all the way to near 0 rpm but it hasn't stalled. If I push the clutch and blip the throttle a couple times, it will come right back up and it may do it 2 or 3 times over the coarse. If I roll into it a bit while slipping the clutch it may be fine for the rest of the drive. There is no pattern to the cut out.
The car starts up fine, idles fine, may go multiple drive cycles without issue and has good power. There has not been any CELs.
Since I got it, and it started cutting out, I have replaced the plugs, cap, rotor and wires, TPS (set to .97), performed a base idle reset and set the base timing to 14*, basically a tune-up. I will be changing out the fuel filter in a week or so when I get some room cleared out in the shop. The IAC looks newly installed by the previous owner.

I'm at a loss on it and don't want to just throw a bunch of parts at it. What do you guys suggest I look at next

 

[90sickfox]

It could be a few things. One thing to check is the actual ignition switch on the steering column. Check the harness for melted wire ends going into the connector and check the switch for movement between the plastic and metal halves.

The 10 pin connectors are notorious for causing similar issues. They are located at the rear of the upper intake " salt and pepper shakers ". Ford did a fix, that didn't work, by installing an extension between the connector. If your car has this extension remove it. Clean the connectors with spray electrical cleaner and a small screw driver. Gently close up the female pins a little with a pick or little screw driver. Add fresh dielectric grease.

These harnesses run signals to various sensors and the fuel injectors. An issue with these will feel like a stumble or misfire. Cleaning these connectors is like regular maintenence on a fox. It may not fix your issue but is easy and worth it anyway.

Run the engine codes and post here. Sometimes these cars will store certain codes and won't cut the check engine light on.

 

[ccgt]

Ill give that a shot on Saturday morning. Ive got a code reader in my shop tools somewhere.

 

[Jenny of the block]

While your car is idling move your salt and peppers. If they are bad they might cut out then. Thats what mine did, and will still do because I didnt fix em yet. Could be pip, mine did that also for a cut out.

 

[Rdub6]

While your car is idling move your salt and peppers. If they are bad they might cut out then. Thats what mine did, and will still do because I didnt fix em yet. Could be pip, mine did that also for a cut out.

So you’re sticking with “Jenny” Pete?

 

[Jenny of the block]

No the guy who owns this site helped me out just havnt set it up.

 

[Potomus Pete]

Forgive my bad attitude. Feels good to see my red car again

 

[ccgt]

I pulled apart the SnP connectors and cleaned out the old grease and dirt thoroughly with contact cleaner and compressed air. Dabbed a little bit of grease back in there and put them back together. The female sockets all looked tight.
I also pulled the MAF and cleaned it along with wiping out the throttle body.

I pulled the codes from the computer before I started the work and had a 67 o and an 18 c.

I assume the 67 is likely associated with a connector that is either unplugged or not compatible with the T56 swap.

Im thinking that maybe the 18 is present after I set the timing and had the SPOUT out and back in.

Ill plug the reader back in tomorrow after another drive cycle to see if they have cleared up.

I drove it for a bout an hour today without issue.

 

[HemiRick]

Forgive my bad attitude. Feels good to see my red car again

Glad to see you got it straightened out.